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Renton |
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 Renton World Chat Champion

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Englishman |
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 Englishman Trackday Trickster

Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Karma :  
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Dazbo666 |
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 Dazbo666 World Chat Champion

Joined: 06 Jun 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 16:37 - 28 Apr 2012 Post subject: |
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Had mine from Machine Mart for ~£35 iirc ____________________ 1st bike (Sept'06 - May'10) : 1991 GPZ500S / Current bike (since Nov 2009) : 2003 Suzuki Bandit 600N
Word of the day : DILLIGAF |
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N cee thirty |
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 N cee thirty Banned

Joined: 31 Jan 2010 Karma :     
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 Posted: 16:40 - 28 Apr 2012 Post subject: |
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i got this a while back
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-34570-88-5-708-Inch-Pounds-Ratchet/dp/B0001K9T2O
pretty good ____________________ '00 Aprilia RS50 > '92 Honda CG > '99 Yamaha Fazer > '91 Yamaha RXS > '79 Suzuki X5 > 01' Honda Cg > 07' Honda Cg > 82' Kawasaki Z200 > suzuki gsxr 400 gk73a > honda vfr 400 NC30 Mod 2 Passed 09/06/2011
Jewlio Iglesias wrote: I actually did vote BNP once |
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MG |
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 MG Traffic Copper
Joined: 10 Oct 2011 Karma :     
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anthony_r6 |
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 anthony_r6 World Chat Champion

Joined: 31 Mar 2011 Karma :    
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Jynister |
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 Jynister Nitrous Nuisance
Joined: 24 Oct 2011 Karma :   
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 Posted: 22:21 - 28 Apr 2012 Post subject: |
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I also have this one and I can't really complain too much about it. |
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Renton |
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 Renton World Chat Champion

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Vincent |
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 Vincent Banned

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Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 11:34 - 29 Apr 2012 Post subject: |
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From thread in Work-Shop Torque talk
Teflon-Mike wrote: | You shouldn't need a torque wrench to put spark plugs in!
Not MUCH point in having a torque wrench, unless you have sockets to stick on the end of it.
Torque wrench really only any use if it measures.... NOTE 'MEASURES' the necessary torque range.
Its a measuring implement for setting the final tightness of a fastner NOT a fancy ratchet!
You'll generally need a high-range torque wrench for stuff that has to be done up effoff tight without shearing the bolts, like brake caliper bolts or cylinder head nuts.
You'll more often need a LOW range torque wrench, working on motorbike engines to avoid stripping threads from fine pitch holes in aluminium cases.
End of the day, most manuals will specify a torque setting withing reletively wide limits.
MORE IMPORTANT than accuracy is 'reliability'..... if book says you have a torque setting of 16-20ft-lb, you don't need a wrench accurate to 0.1ft-lb... it doesn't matter.... as long as you are within 1-2ft-lb of the limits.
What's important is getting ALL the fastenings on a flange the SAME setting, as close as possible.
So, you dont HAVE to have the 'best' torque wrench; even a cheap chitty one will usually be accurate 'enough', IF you use it right.
So when you tighten a set of studs; say a primary drive cover... you put the bolts in and do them up finger tight, then you give them a 'nip' preferably with a spanner, but if you have to with a socket and STANDARD wratchet.
THEN you 'set' the torque with your torque wrench. Which as a contientiouse mechanic you will find in its box 'zeroed' on the scale so that the spring latch that clicks at torque setting isn't weakened by in stoirage being left under tension.
Then you set about HALF the book torque setting...... and you MAKE FUCKING SURE you read the book properly and are SURE you are setting the right UNITS...
Commonly quoted are ft-lb (Foot-Pounds-Force); Kg-m or Kgf-m (Kilogram-force-meters) or Nm (NewtonMeters, the SI unit of torque)
a Kilogram Force is the force of one kilogram under acceleration due to gravity.... its nearly ten times as big as a Newton Meter.
A pound is just under half a Kilogram, and a foot just about a third of a meter, so a ft-lb is roughly half way between a Kg-m & a Nm.
Ie read the wrong scale and your nuts will be too loose, or you'll shear them!
And I've watched FAR too many times; enthusiastic ameteur mechanic grabs the Haynes manual, wants to be 'diligent' so finds the torque wrench settings for the M5 oil pump screws he's tightening up; sees a number like 16 'somethings' that might as well be greek to him... grabs the bog off big torque wrench for setting cylinder head studs, cant find 16 on the scale, so sets 160, then "OOOPS" as tiny little screw SHEARS under VERY big strain!
So, having double checked both the units in the book, and the units on the wrench; looked at the size of the fastener, and the size of the wrench and applied QUICK bit of cocum.... "Little screw; do I need BIG wrench?"
You set HALF the book torque setting, and LOCK the setting on the wrench with the lock screw.
This means you cant accidentally change teh setting half way through doing up a fastener...
And you tighten ALL of the screws on your flange to THAT setting, WITHOUT changing it.
Now, you undo the lock screw, and wind the setting up to 3/4 of the specced torque; lock the scale again, and repeat, taking ALL the fasteners in the flange up to the new setting.
Then you unlock, and wind up to the LOWEST number of the book's 'range' of torque settings, lock, and again work round ALL the fasteners, giving that 'almost' final tighten.
LASTLY, you set the mid point of the book torque and give all the fasteners in the joint a final 'check' setting.
THAT way, you get them all tightened to within the specified tolerence, but more importantly, within a nice close tolerence of each other, which is normally the more important.
THEN you unlock the scale setting screw, wind it back to zero, give the wrench a wipe with an oily rag, and put it back in the box.
Used like THAT, you dont 'need' a really good or expensive wrench.
I have had a 'cheap' £10 Torque wrench I got at a motorfactors closing down sale almost twenty five years ago, last and do the job , often and repeatably for over fifteen years, until I was given a fancy expensive one by a magazine; and when I checked the calibration on the old one, it was within 2ft-lb of the expensive one, despite much abuse!
As for where to get one; I always seem to end up at machine mart. Cheaper than Halfords for similar quality, and I get served by some-one old enough to shave, who doesn't answer any question with "sorry, I only know about the bicycles"
Also about the only place I have found a low range torque wrench for under £80 in recent years; think it was £25 or something daft, last year, when I realised I had always had the borrow of one!
But as said; if you dont have sockets to stick on the end; as yet rather like buying a plough before you got a tractor to drag it! |
____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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Sako |
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 Sako World Chat Champion

Joined: 19 Feb 2012 Karma :   
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Moo. |
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 Moo. World Chat Champion
Joined: 11 Jan 2009 Karma :   
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 Posted: 17:06 - 29 Apr 2012 Post subject: |
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Lidl have some in atm  ____________________ A2 Passed 18/6/10 |
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Fizzer Thou |
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 Fizzer Thou World Chat Champion

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Renton |
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 Renton World Chat Champion

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Welshd1k |
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 Welshd1k World Chat Champion
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Old Thread Alert!
There is a gap of 3 years, 131 days between these two posts... |
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Papa Lazarou |
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 Papa Lazarou Nova Slayer
Joined: 28 Aug 2015 Karma :     
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 Posted: 08:46 - 08 Sep 2015 Post subject: |
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Resurrecting an old thread.
I've got a Draper, which I've had for years, but really need a low value wrench for those fiddly bike bits, as the Draper only goes down to 25NM, although it easily copes with higher settings and seems accurate enough.
As a home mechanic, I don't need a £400 wrench.
I've been looking around and the best ones appear to be the Draper 34570, although a proportion seem to be faulty looking at Amazon reviews, the Halfords professional and the Teng tools low value wrench.
Much of the difficulty in choosing is in the price: from £25 for the Draper to £80 for the Halfords, with the Teng coming in at around £40-and available at Screwfix.
The other difficulty is that most low value (by low value, I don't mean cheap, I mean low torque!) wrenches are 1/4" drive-which is a pain, as many bike nuts are 24cm (forks etc)-which usually means a 1/2" drive.
Nobody does a 1/4" to 1/2" step up adaptor any more-Snap-On did, but no longer. I don't like the idea of putting two or three adaptors onto the end of a wrench.
This excludes the Teng with its 1/4" drive, sadly, as I rate Teng Tools highly.
The Draper has accuracy problems at low torque settings.
This leaves the Halfords wrench, at an eye watering £80. It has a 3/8" drive and will still need an adaptor.
If anybody else has any other recommendations, I'd like to hear before I buy the Halfords wrench, especially if there's 1/2" low value wrench out there. ____________________ Current bike: Honda Blackbird 1100 and a little 250. |
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Vincent |
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 Vincent Banned

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mentalboy |
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 mentalboy World Chat Champion

Joined: 05 May 2012 Karma :   
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 Posted: 10:03 - 08 Sep 2015 Post subject: |
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Papa Lazarou wrote: |
I've been looking around and the best ones appear to be the Draper 34570, although a proportion seem to be faulty looking at Amazon reviews, the Halfords professional and the Teng tools low value wrench.
...
The other difficulty is that most low value (by low value, I don't mean
cheap, I mean low torque!) wrenches are 1/4" drive-which is a pain, as many bike nuts are 24cm (forks etc)-which usually means a 1/2" drive.
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Firstly, I don't recall ever needing a low range setting for fork nuts (struggling to remember if I've ever torqued them down!) and most other large nuts on bikes tend to have correspondingly large torque values. Fork nuts usually have rubber o rings and it isn't usually tricky pinching them down tight enough but not so much that you strip them out.
The only large nuts I recall ever having problems setting to manufacturer's recommended torques are steering head nuts, which usually require a c-spanner. (And this is solved by applying a spring gauge, like angler's use for weighing fish, at a set distance from the nut's centre - ie a hole drilled in the end of the c-spanner - using 'moments' as learned in Mathematics lessons at school )
You already have a wrench that goes down to 25nm, so I'd say just buy a diddy wrench that does only the lower values. |
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Papa Lazarou |
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 Papa Lazarou Nova Slayer
Joined: 28 Aug 2015 Karma :     
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Vincent |
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 Vincent Banned

Joined: 16 Oct 2006 Karma :    
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 Posted: 10:17 - 08 Sep 2015 Post subject: |
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I'm not sure that you really need to torque things like the fork caps. A lot of torque settings are in the manuals to help prevent folk from over-tightening.....or leaving things so loose they vibrate off...and then complaining to the manufacturers claiming it's their fault. Keep some of your toolbox empty for a "common sense" spanner, it'll save you time and money in the long run  ____________________ Space Is Deep |
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Papa Lazarou |
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 Papa Lazarou Nova Slayer
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Vincent |
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 Vincent Banned

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Papa Lazarou |
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 Papa Lazarou Nova Slayer
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LittleRestrai... |
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 LittleRestrai... Two Stroke Sniffer
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FergieinFranc... |
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 FergieinFranc... Borekit Bruiser

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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 9 years, 295 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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