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Torque Wrench Reccomendation?

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Renton
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PostPosted: 16:27 - 28 Apr 2012    Post subject: Torque Wrench Reccomendation? Reply with quote

I'm looking for a torque wrench to work on the bike with.

Can anyone recommend one under £40? (£50 at a push).
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Englishman
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PostPosted: 16:32 - 28 Apr 2012    Post subject: Re: Torque Wrench Reccomendation? Reply with quote

Chalky wrote:
I'm looking for a torque wrench to work on the bike with.

Can anyone recommend one under £40? (£50 at a push).


I got one from Toolstation for £22.50 (pg145 in their catalogue) and a smaller range one from Machine Mart for £35.98 (pg 295 in their catalogue)

Good so far, but not really done any huge tasks with them yet.
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Dazbo666
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PostPosted: 16:37 - 28 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had mine from Machine Mart for ~£35 iirc
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MG
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PostPosted: 16:51 - 28 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-STW1011-Micrometer-7-112Nm-5-83lb-ft/dp/B000ROF64O

Looks good, can't say I've used it but when I get a torque wrench it'll probably be that one. Good range of torques, saves needing two wrenches
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anthony_r6
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PostPosted: 20:10 - 28 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I picked up two from B&Q last year.
They get the job done.
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Jynister
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PostPosted: 22:21 - 28 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rob Fzs wrote:


I also have this one and I can't really complain too much about it.
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Renton
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PostPosted: 22:24 - 28 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys.

I think I'll get the Draper one that Rob linked.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 11:34 - 29 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

From thread in Work-Shop Torque talk

Teflon-Mike wrote:
You shouldn't need a torque wrench to put spark plugs in!

Not MUCH point in having a torque wrench, unless you have sockets to stick on the end of it.

Torque wrench really only any use if it measures.... NOTE 'MEASURES' the necessary torque range.

Its a measuring implement for setting the final tightness of a fastner NOT a fancy ratchet!

You'll generally need a high-range torque wrench for stuff that has to be done up effoff tight without shearing the bolts, like brake caliper bolts or cylinder head nuts.

You'll more often need a LOW range torque wrench, working on motorbike engines to avoid stripping threads from fine pitch holes in aluminium cases.

End of the day, most manuals will specify a torque setting withing reletively wide limits.

MORE IMPORTANT than accuracy is 'reliability'..... if book says you have a torque setting of 16-20ft-lb, you don't need a wrench accurate to 0.1ft-lb... it doesn't matter.... as long as you are within 1-2ft-lb of the limits.

What's important is getting ALL the fastenings on a flange the SAME setting, as close as possible.

So, you dont HAVE to have the 'best' torque wrench; even a cheap chitty one will usually be accurate 'enough', IF you use it right.

So when you tighten a set of studs; say a primary drive cover... you put the bolts in and do them up finger tight, then you give them a 'nip' preferably with a spanner, but if you have to with a socket and STANDARD wratchet.

THEN you 'set' the torque with your torque wrench. Which as a contientiouse mechanic you will find in its box 'zeroed' on the scale so that the spring latch that clicks at torque setting isn't weakened by in stoirage being left under tension. Wink

Then you set about HALF the book torque setting...... and you MAKE FUCKING SURE you read the book properly and are SURE you are setting the right UNITS...

Commonly quoted are ft-lb (Foot-Pounds-Force); Kg-m or Kgf-m (Kilogram-force-meters) or Nm (NewtonMeters, the SI unit of torque)

a Kilogram Force is the force of one kilogram under acceleration due to gravity.... its nearly ten times as big as a Newton Meter.

A pound is just under half a Kilogram, and a foot just about a third of a meter, so a ft-lb is roughly half way between a Kg-m & a Nm.

Ie read the wrong scale and your nuts will be too loose, or you'll shear them!

And I've watched FAR too many times; enthusiastic ameteur mechanic grabs the Haynes manual, wants to be 'diligent' so finds the torque wrench settings for the M5 oil pump screws he's tightening up; sees a number like 16 'somethings' that might as well be greek to him... grabs the bog off big torque wrench for setting cylinder head studs, cant find 16 on the scale, so sets 160, then "OOOPS" as tiny little screw SHEARS under VERY big strain!

So, having double checked both the units in the book, and the units on the wrench; looked at the size of the fastener, and the size of the wrench and applied QUICK bit of cocum.... "Little screw; do I need BIG wrench?"

You set HALF the book torque setting, and LOCK the setting on the wrench with the lock screw.

This means you cant accidentally change teh setting half way through doing up a fastener...

And you tighten ALL of the screws on your flange to THAT setting, WITHOUT changing it.

Now, you undo the lock screw, and wind the setting up to 3/4 of the specced torque; lock the scale again, and repeat, taking ALL the fasteners in the flange up to the new setting.

Then you unlock, and wind up to the LOWEST number of the book's 'range' of torque settings, lock, and again work round ALL the fasteners, giving that 'almost' final tighten.

LASTLY, you set the mid point of the book torque and give all the fasteners in the joint a final 'check' setting.

THAT way, you get them all tightened to within the specified tolerence, but more importantly, within a nice close tolerence of each other, which is normally the more important.

THEN you unlock the scale setting screw, wind it back to zero, give the wrench a wipe with an oily rag, and put it back in the box.

Used like THAT, you dont 'need' a really good or expensive wrench.

I have had a 'cheap' £10 Torque wrench I got at a motorfactors closing down sale almost twenty five years ago, last and do the job , often and repeatably for over fifteen years, until I was given a fancy expensive one by a magazine; and when I checked the calibration on the old one, it was within 2ft-lb of the expensive one, despite much abuse!

As for where to get one; I always seem to end up at machine mart. Cheaper than Halfords for similar quality, and I get served by some-one old enough to shave, who doesn't answer any question with "sorry, I only know about the bicycles"

Also about the only place I have found a low range torque wrench for under £80 in recent years; think it was £25 or something daft, last year, when I realised I had always had the borrow of one!

But as said; if you dont have sockets to stick on the end; as yet rather like buying a plough before you got a tractor to drag it!

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Sako
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PostPosted: 17:03 - 29 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

i also have the draper torque wrench, fine for home garage work.
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Moo.
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PostPosted: 17:06 - 29 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lidl have some in atm Very Happy
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 29 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also have the Draper item.I bought my one at Maccess for £14 a while back but now use it for most everything except the really low readings,for which I have another torque wrench.

For the swing-arm and rear wheel nuts I use a bigger 1/2" drive torque wrench.
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Renton
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PostPosted: 17:36 - 29 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the link Mike. A very interesting and insightful read.

Going by your post in the 'Torque Talk' thread, I'd say I'm buying the torque wrench for the right reasons; the odd job where it is actually required, not to try out on every nut and bolt I see on the bike.
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Welshd1k
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PostPosted: 00:28 - 30 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got a halfords pro one bit oput of your price range but a nice bit of kit had a draper aswell from a local motorfactors that cost me £12 ish
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Old Thread Alert!

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Papa Lazarou
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PostPosted: 08:46 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Resurrecting an old thread.

I've got a Draper, which I've had for years, but really need a low value wrench for those fiddly bike bits, as the Draper only goes down to 25NM, although it easily copes with higher settings and seems accurate enough.

As a home mechanic, I don't need a £400 wrench.

I've been looking around and the best ones appear to be the Draper 34570, although a proportion seem to be faulty looking at Amazon reviews, the Halfords professional and the Teng tools low value wrench.

Much of the difficulty in choosing is in the price: from £25 for the Draper to £80 for the Halfords, with the Teng coming in at around £40-and available at Screwfix.

The other difficulty is that most low value (by low value, I don't mean cheap, I mean low torque!) wrenches are 1/4" drive-which is a pain, as many bike nuts are 24cm (forks etc)-which usually means a 1/2" drive.

Nobody does a 1/4" to 1/2" step up adaptor any more-Snap-On did, but no longer. I don't like the idea of putting two or three adaptors onto the end of a wrench.

This excludes the Teng with its 1/4" drive, sadly, as I rate Teng Tools highly.

The Draper has accuracy problems at low torque settings.

This leaves the Halfords wrench, at an eye watering £80. It has a 3/8" drive and will still need an adaptor.

If anybody else has any other recommendations, I'd like to hear before I buy the Halfords wrench, especially if there's 1/2" low value wrench out there.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 10:03 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Papa Lazarou wrote:


I've been looking around and the best ones appear to be the Draper 34570, although a proportion seem to be faulty looking at Amazon reviews, the Halfords professional and the Teng tools low value wrench.

...

The other difficulty is that most low value (by low value, I don't mean
cheap, I mean low torque!) wrenches are 1/4" drive-which is a pain, as many bike nuts are 24cm (forks etc)-which usually means a 1/2" drive.



Firstly, I don't recall ever needing a low range setting for fork nuts (struggling to remember if I've ever torqued them down!) and most other large nuts on bikes tend to have correspondingly large torque values. Fork nuts usually have rubber o rings and it isn't usually tricky pinching them down tight enough but not so much that you strip them out.
The only large nuts I recall ever having problems setting to manufacturer's recommended torques are steering head nuts, which usually require a c-spanner. (And this is solved by applying a spring gauge, like angler's use for weighing fish, at a set distance from the nut's centre - ie a hole drilled in the end of the c-spanner - using 'moments' as learned in Mathematics lessons at school Wink )

You already have a wrench that goes down to 25nm, so I'd say just buy a diddy wrench that does only the lower values.
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Papa Lazarou
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PostPosted: 10:14 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. The fork nuts are 23NM-so a lower value would be nice.
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Papa Lazarou
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PostPosted: 13:56 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
I'm not sure that you really need to torque things like the fork caps. A lot of torque settings are in the manuals to help prevent folk from over-tightening.....or leaving things so loose they vibrate off...and then complaining to the manufacturers claiming it's their fault. Keep some of your toolbox empty for a "common sense" spanner, it'll save you time and money in the long run Thumbs Up


Thanks. I bought the Bkackbird a few weeks ago, selling my VFR, and there was a knocking sound from the headstock after a while-the triple tree top nut had not been done up to spec...hence my concen about all the others...
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Papa Lazarou
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PostPosted: 14:11 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
The top yoke nut can sometimes come undone if not checked after fitting new bearings. The bearings tend to "bed in" after a few miles and the top nut can work its way loose from the steering moving side to side. If you're concerned, I would check things like the caliper bolts, axle nuts, handlebar bolts, rear suspension mountings and engine mounting bolts. You don't need a torque wrench, just check with a normal ratchet to make sure they're not loose. It's a good idea to check these on any bike but some bikes are more prone to vibration that others.


Yes, new bearings were fitted. I've checked the other nuts and bolts with a spanner.
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LittleRestrai...
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PostPosted: 17:07 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Literally just bought the Halfords one, 8-40Nm or whatever it is.

Really good as far as cheap torque wrenches go, bought it for various tasks that I'm too ham-handed to do, like the fucking cam cover bolts on my VTR which only need 10Nm (as I found after snapping one). Ideal for fat handed retards such as myself.

Little bit nicer than the Draper one I have, but a little bit dearer too.
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FergieinFranc...
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PostPosted: 11:22 - 09 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
You all say that the ones you have bought work well, but how do you know?
.


This is the problem with any torque wrench, they go out of calibration. I've got two relatively expensive ones, and when I worked in a garage I got them tested every year when the guy came to check the company ones. However, that was a long time ago, so, now they have become large expensive socket bars...so please beware, that feeling of security using a TW, it could be out by some way over the years...
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The last post was made 9 years, 296 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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