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Welding. What welder will do?

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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 13:55 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Welding. What welder will do? Reply with quote

I'll be welding up a subframe soon and I'll need a relatively good welder. The welder i have is absolutely cack. Any suggestions on what I'd need? Would rather not use one that requires gas.

Is it arc the one I require? If so, what amps is good for frames and such? I need a budget one really.

Thanks. Smile
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Werny
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PostPosted: 15:48 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mig all the way.

Arc welders are the ones with no gas, but I'd never use one for frame work. Plate steel welding, they're great, so if you plan on making a ship get one Razz
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 15:52 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right, just had a long hard look at my mig welder in the shed. It's a behemoth it really is. Managed to get it working again! Laughing just had a practise and It's alright. I need to grab some decent metal and have a proper go mind. Practise makes perfect and all that. Laughing
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Peirre oBollox
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PostPosted: 16:00 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

How good are the OP`s welding skills?

IF your welding skills arn`t great, your not intending to use a welder more than a couple of dozen times a year, the cost of a reasonsable machine is going to be expensive. Will make purchasing a welder impractical. Good welding sets cost a lot, mainly because they`re heavy duty, and have a high "duty cycle" and won`t trip out, or over heat. Likewise I figure to power a good welder you`ll need a 30A power supply. So if your skills arn`t great, its probably wiser to spend the money and get someone else to weld the subframe up. That way you`ll be sure the subframe will be welded up stong enough for the purpose you intend.

I know the MIG set that sat in my garage, the one that cost me nearly a grand, 10 years ago has not been used for a couple of years, because I`ve not needed it. but its done a lot of work prior to that point. Likewise the Oxy-acetylene set that had, hadn`t been used for sometime, which is why I decided to get rid of the bottles.
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Last edited by Peirre oBollox on 16:10 - 05 May 2012; edited 1 time in total
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 16:13 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Babba wrote:
mysterious_rider wrote:
Right, just had a long hard look at my mig welder in the shed. It's a behemoth it really is. Managed to get it working again! Laughing just had a practise and It's alright. I need to grab some decent metal and have a proper go mind. Practise makes perfect and all that. Laughing


Best advice I never listened too was "make it sound like frying bacon".

Practice welding up off cuts of what the subframe is made of & attack them with sledgehammers. The metal should fail before the welds !


Thanks mate. Mr. Green Thumbs Up
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Peirre oBollox
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PostPosted: 16:13 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

IMO the biggest problem welding subframes up, isn`t the welds themselves, but the materials the original subframe is made of, because without post welding heat treatment, the subframe will probably crack next to the weld
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 16:22 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

what is wrong with your subframe?

is cheaper to ebay a new one? or find a pro to do it for you.

feck spilt tea on keyboard Sad
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 17:14 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a spare bike I want to bobber it. Laughing I got it cheap enough and I've got it set it my mind now.


Why would the subframe crack. What sort of preweld treatment do you need. Never heard of this before. Confused


Euromig 200

(that pic is years old, no longer have the trike)

https://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j250/matttess/100_3033.jpg
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 17:33 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fantastic. Very Happy

Right, I picked up a zzr 600 and I realised I really don't want a sportsbike. I want a complete custom machine. More on the ratbike side of things. Like this....

https://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j250/matttess/KGrHqJHJEUE914cuVzBPnwQbpj60_12.jpg

that was a cbr1000 at one point. Laughing


Right, so you know roughly what I want. I was thinking with the subframe, I probably won't be making it from scratch. I'll cut and reweld what's already there. No point making things really difficult, the way I see it the seat attaches to the subframe, so I'll cut the double seat in half to make a single, then use the bit of subframe and chop what I don't need then just weld it back on. Depending on how it goes I might not even need to weld major supports, just cut some off the rear and move the seat mounts. Thumbs Up

Worst case scenario I have to add supports. I can get any sort of metal from a fabricating place up the road. They chuck out lots of useful stuff!

Just hoping my welder is up to the job! Smile
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 18:08 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah.. Flaws in my plan. The rear subframe is alloy. Do'h. Not good, Would I require gas to weld alloy? Or a special wire? I'm guessing a different wire is needed.

The subframe looks simple enough. A grinder to halve it, then just two pieces cut from the bits I chopped off to bridge the gaps between the higher and lower levels. I might not have to actually change the angle of it, just the length.

Worse case scenario is I get a pro to weld it. But I'd rather learn myself.



Cheers Mr. Green
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 18:34 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting stuff buddy. I have favourited that site. I think the biggest problem will be sorting out the rear wheel/subframe/suspension. I don't want too much travel if I have to lower the subframe. The idea is I'll be needing to lower the rear end. So I'll need to get a smaller shock and see what kind of room I'm left to play with once I've cut up the subframe.

Can't wait till payday. Mr. Green
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Peirre oBollox
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PostPosted: 19:19 - 05 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

mysterious_rider wrote:
Ah.. Flaws in my plan. The rear subframe is alloy. Do'h. Not good, Would I require gas to weld alloy? Or a special wire? I'm guessing a different wire is needed

TIG welding is best for Alloy
[geek mode on]The problem with welding alloy isn`t the aluminium itself, its the aluminium oxide or Rust that coats it, aluminmium melts at around 650 `C aluminium oxide melts at a couple of thousand `C. So the welding process needs to "interupt" the bond between the base metal and the oxide to sucessfully weld an aluminium joint, which is why you need an AC (alternating current) welding set. but most normal welding sets run on DC current between the welding "gun" and the earth point on the piece
also good AC welding sets are bloody expensive
[geek mode off]
you can stick weld aluminium, I`ve done it, its a bitch to do, and I`ve only had call to do it half a Doz times in 20yrs. you can also gas weld alloy, but its a nightmare to do. Also you`ll find with stick welding alloy, the welding rods are bloody expensive at around £1+ each last time I looked, infact they are so expensive that welding suppliers sell em by the handful and rarely by the box, secondly the flux that coats the alloy welding rods is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture) which means that they have to be kept dry and probably pre-warmed before they are used for welding.
No doubt someone else here will have memories of what can happen when you stick a welding rod into the gun of a 300A+ AC set, I can asure you its not a pleasurable experience.


If the Op is interested in learning the "art" of welding, get down to the local library and find a book called "the science and practice of welding" by AC Davis. This is what used to be the welders bible, and the contents of which we had to learn as apprentices. its very OTT technically wise, boring but informative. I`ve still got a copy on my bookshelf somewhere
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Beelzebob
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PostPosted: 10:04 - 06 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Babba wrote:
I don't think you'll get much help here, this place being infested by socks, trolls & wannabee meme artists. Very precious few actually own a motorcycle, most seem to be moped jockey forum junkies with a fast thumb & tapatalk.


hahadumball wrote:


Oh the irony Thumbs Up
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 15:03 - 06 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

As has been said, TIG is the only way to weld aluminium. So thats a tig machine, argon gas and a 440v 3phase electrical supply.
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kestrel
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PostPosted: 16:59 - 06 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:
As has been said, TIG is the only way to weld aluminium. So thats a tig machine, argon gas and a 440v 3phase electrical supply.


Aluminium can be successfully welded with several different processes including gas, stick, mig and tig. Gas welding is still the preferred method for welding fuel tanks but requires a high level of skill and is unfortunately a dying art. Stick welding aluminium never produced good results, the arc is unstable and the fumes are so thick that it's difficult to see the weld pool for most of the time. Good results can be had mig welding aluminium but not from a budget machine, you either need a set with a very good wire feed system or a spool gun torch. The other problem with mig welding aluminium is it's high thermal conductivity which produces cold starts.
Tig is definitely the way forward for general aluminium work. These days you don't need a massive set with a 3 phase supply, single phase 200 amp inverter welders are very capable and cheap machines. I have a 130 amp tig set in the garage which runs of a 13A socket and a 200 amp tig set which runs off a dedicated supply and draws 26A on full whack.
For the odd job it's going to be far cheaper just to get someone else to do it for you rather than buying a welder, gas and consumables, and of course actually learning how to use it.
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Rob W
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PostPosted: 17:48 - 06 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

My Fronius at work can lay down a really nice ally MIG weld, but then that cost about £5K second hand.
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kestrel
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 06 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

RobW1983 wrote:
My Fronius at work can lay down a really nice ally MIG weld, but then that cost about £5K second hand.


Fronius make really good stuff, I had one of their TIG sets a few years ago. I'm guessing that the MIG you have at work is a synergic pulse set?

To the OP.....
Aluminium alloys fall into two basic categories which are heat treatable and non heat treatable.
Non Heat Treatable alloys are unaffected by the application of heat and can only be hardened by cold working. They include the 1000 3000 4000 and 5000 series alloys.
Heat treatable alloys are those in which the mechanical properties of the material can be changed by the application of heat, including welding. They include the 2000 6000 and 7000 series alloys.

Motorcycle frames are typically made from the 6000 and 7000 series alloys which are both heat treatable. If you weld on a frame the temperature of the material will be raised far beyond the last heat treatment of around 200*C and this is going to result in a substantial reduction in the mechanical strength of the material adjacent to the weld, some sources quote a figure of as much as 30-40%. This may be acceptable in non critical areas, but you need to bear it in mind. Get yourself a steel frame, much less grief!
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flumpy7
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PostPosted: 21:39 - 06 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:


You sound like me 20yrs ago

I don't think you'll get much help here, this place being infested by socks, trolls & wannabee meme artists. Very precious few actually own a motorcycle, most seem to be moped jockey forum junkies with a fast thumb & tapatalk.

However, a few of us, 5 at most, actually know what you're on about & there's maybe 4 of us that care, if you're prepared to put up with lots of 'noise' on the line, then maybe we can help.


'Tis a bit rude really. And not true. Rolling Eyes
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