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brake reservoir top up

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donniemateno
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PostPosted: 09:57 - 04 Jun 2012    Post subject: brake reservoir top up Reply with quote

i went to top up my brake reservoir as the brake felt a little spongey

i went to undo the bolts to remove the reservoir cap only to find they have already been rounded by previous owner as they have been sprayed pink! as well

i am just wondering where to go from this?

either to buy a new reservoir unit from somewhere

or drill the old lid off and find some new bolts
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 10:07 - 04 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bolts? Confused They should be flat-headed screws.

If they're screws try super-gluing something of the same size to their tops and twisting on that, you never know.
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anthony_r6
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PostPosted: 10:14 - 04 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Start with a small drill bit and go down the center of the bolt. Get slightly larger until the screw caves in, or just drill the head off (be careful not to bore into the plastic) and it should just slide off the top. Those screws won't be hard to find.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 10:24 - 04 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Impact driver is your friend.
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 10:26 - 04 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

c_dug wrote:
Impact driver is your friend.


On a resevoir? I think not.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 10:33 - 04 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I suppose maybe not the brightest idea Laughing

You can get small impact drivers that are designed for that kind of thing though, not that I've ever seen one in a shop.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 12:02 - 04 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

If it is a combined master cylinder and reservoir of metal construction then an impact driver would be my first choice.

Failing that drill the heads off the bolts and the cap will lift off, then you can use mole grips to remove the remains.

The bolts almost certainly have a countersunk head.

All the best

Keith
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 12:06 - 04 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

If it is a combined master cylinder and reservoir of metal construction then an impact driver would be my first choice.


Good luck with that. Laughing

Kickstart wrote:


The bolts almost certainly have a countersunk head.



If it doesn't take a spanner (by design) it's not a bolt, it's a screw.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 12:09 - 04 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hetzer wrote:

Good luck with that. Laughing


Worked many times in the past. Zero chance that gluing anything to the bolt head will work, and any other method is far more destructive.

All the best

Keith
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Casper
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PostPosted: 12:51 - 04 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Used an impact driver myself a few times with no trouble. I tend to change the screws for allen bolts now and keep them clean.
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kestrel
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PostPosted: 13:02 - 04 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

1888 wrote:
Used an impact driver myself a few times with no trouble. I tend to change the screws for allen bolts now and keep them clean.


Same here. One of the first jobs i do on any bike i get is replace all fluids. If the reservoirs have screws in the top i always replace them with stainless countersunk socket screws plus a dab of coppaslip.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 13:50 - 04 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hetzer wrote:

If it doesn't take a spanner (by design) it's not a bolt, it's a screw.


Untrue, although there are loads of different definitions of what is a bolt and what is a screw.

All the best

Keith
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 16:34 - 04 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hetzer wrote:

If it doesn't take a spanner (by design) it's not a bolt, it's a screw.


Untrue, although there are loads of different definitions of what is a bolt and what is a screw.

All the best

Keith


Go on then, define a bolt and explain how it's different to a screw.
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brythered92
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PostPosted: 17:04 - 04 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

if possible at all hacksaw the exposed part of the head on the bolt then flat head to get them out
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 17:24 - 04 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hetzer wrote:

Go on then, define a bolt and explain how it's different to a screw.


Main one appears to be that a bolt goes through to be secured on the other side with a nut while a screw just goes in, screwing into the piece.

All the best

Keith
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Nick 50
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PostPosted: 17:43 - 04 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

File 2 edges either side of the bolt to fit a spanner on to.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 19:49 - 04 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you top up then you will have to mop up if you change the pads later.
Check the pad wear.
Brake systems have enough fluid in the reservior to complete a full wear cycle. If not below the Low level leave it.

If spongy then there is a brake syatem problem low level will not cause a problem unless it is empty.
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donniemateno
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PostPosted: 14:48 - 05 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

i am looking to top up because from what i can see there is no fluid in the reservoir! it looks empty i cant find out until the cap is off. the pads are looking very thin as well

but anyway the heads of the screws on the cap are torx counter sunk

they are neither 10 nor 15 their a happy medium which i dont have Sad and since the previous owner looks to have tried to remove them already they arent really 15 now

i am thinking i might have to go with the drill option to take the heads off and then replce the bolts
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dodgydog
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PostPosted: 15:28 - 05 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hetzer wrote:

Go on then, define a bolt and explain how it's different to a screw.


Main one appears to be that a bolt goes through to be secured on the other side with a nut while a screw just goes in, screwing into the piece.

All the best

Keith


Bolts are threaded part way up the shank. Screws (or set screws) are threaded all the way to the head, either bolt or screw may be hex, allen, torx or whatever.
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flumpy7
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PostPosted: 15:35 - 05 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

donniemateno wrote:
i am looking to top up because from what i can see there is no fluid in the reservoir! it looks empty i cant find out until the cap is off. the pads are looking very thin as well

but anyway the heads of the screws on the cap are torx counter sunk

they are neither 10 nor 15 their a happy medium which i dont have Sad and since the previous owner looks to have tried to remove them already they arent really 15 now

i am thinking i might have to go with the drill option to take the heads off and then replce the bolts


IF it genuinely is empty then you will have sucked air into the system my friend and topping up will not suffice you will need to rebleed.
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EazyDuz
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PostPosted: 15:37 - 05 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dont think the brakes would work at all if its empty
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 16:34 - 05 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

dodgydog wrote:

Bolts are threaded part way up the shank.


That seems to be one of the definitions (and goes along to an extent with the definition of a bolt as 'an externally threaded headed fastener, which is used in conjunction with a nut')

All the best

Keith
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donniemateno
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PostPosted: 07:45 - 07 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

i took a measurment of the pads today and they are very thin to say the least....0.6 mm of thread

i will buy some off ebay ( and not sue the bike as the brakes are unbelieveably crap now , Rear brake is good though ) and im probably going to buy a new brake lever / reservoir assembly as well as i have noticed when i apply the front brake my brake light wont go out unless i push the lever forward and i can see what looks like a small switch which is just hanging and when i push it back with my finger it just pops back out and moves around quite freely. it isnt "located"

im just hoping i can find a assembly all in one as the ones i found on ebay are for cb400 etc

after a bit of research its a brake lever stop switch which would fix this problem not a new lever.....doh!
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donniemateno
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PostPosted: 15:12 - 16 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

finally had a chance to look at the reservoir again!

anyway i tried a hex head socket to undo one of the bolts and just spun

so I'm guessing the best bet as mentioned before will be for me to just drill these out and get the remaining thread out with mole grips?

just a quick question does anyone know what size thread the new bolts/screws will need to be?

otherwise my bike won't be in use for a bit while i look for some Razz

any help mcuh appreciated
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 20:53 - 16 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

donniemateno wrote:
just a quick question does anyone know what size thread the new bolts/screws will need to be?

I'd guess that the screws will be M4 and probably be 12mm in length.
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