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Cleaning Brakes

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yambabe
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PostPosted: 21:26 - 04 Jun 2012    Post subject: Cleaning Brakes Reply with quote

Would appreciate your advice please, this is re my "summer" bike, a Suzuki VS800. Due to inclement weather and some health issues it's barely moved in a year Embarassed , and in the autumn as per usual it was coated in ACF50/WD40 to protect against the winter corrosion.

It's now out and been hosed off and polished, but I have an issue with the front brake. Basically it's crap, I barely have one, and each time I use it I'm seeing a sort of gooey yet dusty film form on the disc. Have tried cleaning this with what I had to hand (degreaser basically) and been out and done several miles of a-road "speed up, nothing behind, big handful of front" in the hope that usage might burn it off but it's barely made a difference if I'm honest.

Do these brake-cleaner sprays work? Cos I'm thinking if I have to take the brakes to bits to clean them properly I might as well treat it to a new set of pads anyway......

Advice and opinions would be welcome please! Very Happy
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 21:46 - 04 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brake cleaner is little more than a very high powered solvent, so if you have any oil-based product on the disc it will wash that away.
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andym
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PostPosted: 21:52 - 04 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sure I've said it before, and I'll say it again (and if at all possible for you to do), get the pads out and give them a light sand to get any contaminants off them, give the discs a quick wash with water with a small dash of washing up liquid in there.

To be honest I've never found brake cleaner to be much good unless I'm overhauling the braking system, and even then I'll give the pads a light sanding if any gets near them
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 12:19 - 07 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

As above, brake cleaner is a very volatile solvent, it rinses away any oil and then evaporates without leaving a residue. If you happen to have access to any other similarly volatile solvents (pure ethanol, isopropanol etc) then you can use them instead.

How much meat do the pads have left? The workshop answer is that you probably don't fancy chancing hard braking on a defective brake system Wink , new pads and cleaning the discs with a decent solvent will sort it out.

Do you know what the oily residue is? Check to make sure that it isn't brake fluid leaking out as that could explain both the contamination and the shite brakes.


Last edited by DrDonnyBrago on 12:22 - 07 Jun 2012; edited 1 time in total
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Hetzer
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PostPosted: 12:22 - 07 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gooey dust? Possibly you have brake-fluid leaking past the piston/s?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 12:33 - 07 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brake cleaner is both good and bad.

Good, because it can clean discs and brake calipers without leaving a residue.

Bad because its rather toxic, and if exposed to temperatures above about 300 degrees C, turns into a nasty gas which eats your lungs.

To be honest Jo, if I were you I'd loosen the pad retaining pin(s), remove the caliper, remove the pads, give it a thorough clean, examine the pistons for corrosion and look for leaks, then re assemble with red rubber grease on the sides of the pistons (after removing any corrosion with fine emery paper or a soft wire brush). Then I'd push the pistons back into the caliper, fit new brake pads and re-assemble. Check the braking system works then take it for a test ride if all is OK.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 12:58 - 07 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
if exposed to temperatures above about 300 degrees C, turns into a nasty gas which eats your lungs.


Laughing when exactly will it be exposed to 300 degrees C?

It evaporates almost immediately even at room temperature. Unless you are storing it indoors during a house fire then it's degradation products are a non issue.

You are probably referring to cleaners that contain chlorinated hydrocarbons like tetrachloroethylene, which if heated to just over 300C produces phosgene. You don't need to worry about them so long as you don't set fire to them or spray them onto really hot surfaces (why would you?). Lots of brake cleaners don't contain that solvent either and are just alcohol and light distillates.


If you use it outdoors and don't set fire to it then it is fine to use on your brakes. It is widely used daily in dry cleaners and they don't die or explode all that often.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 13:55 - 07 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

DonnyBrago wrote:

Laughing when exactly will it be exposed to 300 degrees C?


I know, some idiot on the internet used it to cool down a weld that he had done.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 14:08 - 07 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
DonnyBrago wrote:

Laughing when exactly will it be exposed to 300 degrees C?


I know, some idiot on the internet used it to cool down a weld that he had done.

Amazingly, it wasn't Warped, but when he reads about it I'm damn sure that he'll claim to have welded some baking soda into anthrax.

OT, I use acetone, isopropanol or whatever other degreaser that I happen to have handy, then sluice down with water.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 14:31 - 07 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:


Surprised

I didn't realise someone had actually almost killed themselves with it.

Nasty!
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MrPink
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PostPosted: 15:36 - 07 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like your pads are contaminated so get new ones. If the seals are leaking, you need new ones of them too. Give the pistons a good clean, I use 1200 grade wet and dry paper dipped in brake-fluid. If they are pitted a long way in, you may have to think about getting new pistons too. Make sure you clean the groove the seals sit in very carefully, but avoid scratching the soft metal in the calliper. Use a small aluminium or wood implement to scrape out corrosion. Then reasemble, flush out all the old nasty brake fluid with fresh stuff, and enjoy good-as-new brakes. Don't forget to pump brake leaver a couple of times after having put it together, you don't want to leave that to the first corner or red light...
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yambabe
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PostPosted: 22:04 - 11 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a229/Yambabe/pads.jpg

Thanks for all the advice everyone. Thumbs Up

Seals were fine, no fluid leaks, problem was caused by the above! Embarassed

New pads fitted yesterday, MOT duly passed today and much less chance of me rear-ending someone now......... Laughing
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 23:39 - 11 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those pads were just about naked anyway, best thing you could have done was change them.
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