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What oil for my NC27?

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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 13:42 - 04 Jul 2012    Post subject: What oil for my NC27? Reply with quote

Hi, I think I've got a problem, I've got '91 CB1 NC27 and I filled the engine like 1400miles ago with Belray 10W40 oil. The thing is, that I've put in 3 liters of oil, the dipstick shown its level on the to top line, slightely below, and now it's like 3mm above the bottom line.

Would my honda work with 20W50 oil? I used to use 20W50 in my GPz550 and if I compare it with 10W40 in GPz550, less oil disappeared.

Thanks for your help.

btw. the final drive ratio is changed to 15/44 and I do get over 14 000rpm once in a while.
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 13:46 - 04 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can try it and see. Does it belch blue smoke? The oil must be going somewhere.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 17:46 - 04 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stick to the 10W40.

Burning a little under a litre in 1500 miles isn't a massive problem, just means it will need topping up sometimes. Burning oil itself isn't a problem, and using a thicker oil to burn less of it isn't necessary.

When you checked the level after the oil and filter change, had you run the engine for a couple of minutes? The filter holds 200-300ml of oil, so the oil level will go down a little after the first start.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 18:49 - 04 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought that honda wasn't really an oil burner, a friend of mine had 2 Honda bikes, CB500, CBR900RR and he never had to add oil during the season.

When I filled up the engine, I've put new filter there of course, I just went for a ride and I checked the oil level after like 100+ miles.
I checked the oil level while the bike was standing like two weeks, so it was cold and I assume that all fluids in the engine were at the bottom of it.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 04 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's not heavy oil consumption.

If you rev it to the redline a lot it will use more oil Wink

You can find 10w50 if you look around.
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prawny1
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PostPosted: 22:40 - 04 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

my cb-1 never uses "any" oil between services, but the oil level does settle a little lower following initial run up after an oil + filter change.

stick with 10-40 semi synth don't be tempted to go to 20-50w i used it once to run for a couple days as a cheap flush, it caused smoking on start up10-50 might be an o.k. alternative though
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JvG
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PostPosted: 07:25 - 05 Jul 2012    Post subject: Re: What oil for my NC27? Reply with quote

[quote="RhynoCZ"]Hi, I think I've got a problem, I've got '91 CB1 NC27 and I filled the engine like 1400miles ago with Belray 10W40 oil. The thing is, that I've put in 3 liters of oil, the dipstick shown its level on the to top line, slightely below, and now it's like 3mm above the bottom line.

Would my honda work with 20W50 oil? I used to use 20W50 in my GPz550 and if I compare it with 10W40 in GPz550, less oil disappeared.

Thanks for your help.

btw. the final drive ratio is changed to 15/44 and I do get over 14 000rpm once in a while.[/quote]

I would not put anything else in engine but the recomended grade for your bike wich is 10W-40, the only thing Honda also now reccomend (since 2006) is 10W-30. However you could go for a higher spec oil like Silkolene Comp4 or Motul 5100. They have higher spec additive packs and are only slightly more expensive but seem much easier/better on the engines...
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 09:22 - 05 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm bit confused now, some say it's alright and some say it is not.

Check this page from the manual: https://s970.photobucket.com/albums/ae184/RhynoCZ/?action=view¤t=mazn.jpg&newest=1

I can only read first two numbers in the graph. These two say, SAE 20W50 and SAE 20W40.

GPz550 with 10W40 oil in it, needed 3.5 liters of oil per season, I filled the engine up with 3.0 L I think and then when it burner down to the bottom line of the scale (glass), I added a bit to keep it arround the center of the scale. When it was hot, I mean 30+°C the oil also leaked from the engine, not like there was a puddle under it, the oil just covered the engine because of the heat. I did 3125 miles (5000km) every season, then changed the oil. Second season I used 20W50, the same procedure, and again 3125miles with it, and not only it burned less, the engine was ''more dry'', I mean no leaks arround the gaskets. After 20W50 season, I sold the bike, so I gave the rest of the oil to the buyer, but there was no need to add some.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 13:39 - 05 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
I'm bit confused now, some say it's alright and some say it is not.


The bike is what, 20+ years old? How many miles has it covered? There is bound to be some wear in the engine and a few lightly perished seals, so some oil consumption is to be expected.

According to the manual 20w50 is ok provided where you are is between the relevant temperatures.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 01:55 - 06 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Means nothing.

I have owned two xj600 diversions. One drank a little oil, the other didnt. Usually means a little wear in the bores or a seal somewhere is perished, so a little is burned in the cylinder(s).

As long as it isnt belching smoke all the time i wouldnt worry.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 05:51 - 06 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Temeluchus wrote:
RhynoCZ wrote:
I'm bit confused now, some say it's alright and some say it is not.


The bike is what, 20+ years old? How many miles has it covered? There is bound to be some wear in the engine and a few lightly perished seals, so some oil consumption is to be expected.

According to the manual 20w50 is ok provided where you are is between the relevant temperatures.


Thank you for the graph. I don't know how many miles it did, the clock says less than 30 000, I think. I've got a rider on sunday, so I'm gonna tell you then. Cool
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 05:55 - 06 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
Are you using the dip stick properly? Do you screw it in or measure it without screwing it in?

Mine doesn't burn any oil either.


I screw it out, clean it, screw it back in, get the motorcycle upright, then screw it out and check the level. I actually hate this system, I used to have a glass on my former GPz, oil level checked in a sec with no need to do something.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 06:03 - 06 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Temeluchus wrote:
Means nothing.

I have owned two xj600 diversions. One drank a little oil, the other didnt. Usually means a little wear in the bores or a seal somewhere is perished, so a little is burned in the cylinder(s).

As long as it isnt belching smoke all the time i wouldnt worry.


It doesn't smoke at all, I think it would be as you said, I went on the bike up to 14k like all the time (14k - 6th gear 190km/h), I'm gonna change the gear ratio to its default setting and then, I think, it would be more ''economic''. I has enormous fuel consuption right now because of the revs.

When I travell somewhere, I rev it below 10k rpm and it saves me slightly more then liter of fuel. 10k - 6th gear 130km/h.
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prawny1
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PostPosted: 07:58 - 06 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

with the altered gearing the speedo will be nowhere near accurate by the way.

with standard dials 15f 37r is meant to give reliable speedo readings, this is because the speedo is driven off the front sprockt not the wheels.

as mensioned before 20-50 gave me a smoky start up, if you can get it 10-50 might help ,i also used 5-30 fully synthetic before gearchanges improved bit transmission/engine sound was increased so i went back to 10-40 semi synth,

i buy silkolene 10-40 workshop oil in 20l tubs so it lasts me a while depending on how many bikes i do.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 08:23 - 06 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

prawny1 wrote:
with the altered gearing the speedo will be nowhere near accurate by the way.

with standard dials 15f 37r is meant to give reliable speedo readings, this is because the speedo is driven off the front sprockt not the wheels.

as mensioned before 20-50 gave me a smoky start up, if you can get it 10-50 might help ,i also used 5-30 fully synthetic before gearchanges improved bit transmission/engine sound was increased so i went back to 10-40 semi synth,

i buy silkolene 10-40 workshop oil in 20l tubs so it lasts me a while depending on how many bikes i do.


The speed I've mentioned was measured by second motorcycle, I know the actuall speed according to rev counter, I know it goes 50km/h at 3900rpm and so on. I know the speedo is inaccurate, it show approx. 6km/h+. With 15/37 it goes only 170km/h, right? With 15/41 ratio it still gets to the top: 190km/h.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 09:37 - 06 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
That's where you're going wrong. You're not burning oil, you're putting too much in and it's being ejected via the breather. Stick the bike on the main stand, unscrew the dipstick, clean it then just let it rest on the threads - don't screw it in. Remove and read. When you change the oil, stick the correct amount in which, IIRC, is 3.1L. It might be worth checking the bottom of the airbox for oil puddles.#
BTW; if the bike is fited with the small auxiliary air box behind the main one, check the filter element, it decomposes, turns to dust and can end up blocking the carbs and/or airbox.


Alright then, I'm gonna measure the oil level as you say, but still, I had 3 liters of oil, which means there's no more then 3 liters in the engine. I'm gonna check the airbox anyway. I was about to check the air filter since I've got time and money. I'm gonna tell you more after I check this.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 09:32 - 07 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
If you havn't already, get yourself on here too, it's not the busiest of forums as there's not that many of these bikes around but most info is on there:-

www.hondacb1.org/forum/index.php


Thanks for the site, I had not known about this one.
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prawny1
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PostPosted: 17:47 - 07 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:

That's where you're going wrong. You're not burning oil, you're putting too much in and it's being ejected via the breather. Stick the bike on the main stand, unscrew the dipstick, clean it then just let it rest on the threads - don't screw it in. Remove and read. When you change the oil, stick the correct amount in which, IIRC, is 3.1L. It might be worth checking the bottom of the airbox for oil puddles.#
BTW; if the bike is fited with the small auxiliary air box behind the main one, check the filter element, it decomposes, turns to dust and can end up blocking the carbs and/or airbox.


Vincent checking the oil level by screwing the dipstick all the way in the way the op does would actualy lead to a lower oil level than resting the dipstick against the thread, so your actualy recommending the op adds more oil than he normaly does.

I personaly just rest the dipstick against the threads too tbh and have never had an issue with oil in the airbox.

I have gotten used to just looking at the level through the dipstick hole on my cb-1, just to the rear of the hole you can see a sort of round casting when the oil is at the right level this casting is just a few mm higher than the oil level.

I have seen bikes where people have topped up the oil with the bike on the side stand (ala harley davidson style) and they do suffer from oiling airboxes and some have evan had the gear shaft and sprocket seals pop out due to excess crankcase pressure.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 19:11 - 07 Jul 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

prawny1 wrote:
I have gotten used to just looking at the level through the dipstick hole on my cb-1, just to the rear of the hole you can see a sort of round casting when the oil is at the right level this casting is just a few mm higher than the oil level.


Shocked wow, I am totally checking this right tomorrow. You're my hero, I hate that dipstick system Smile
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