KLE500 as a restricted commuter - bad idea? Alternatives?

[cdlxxvi]

[sidewinder]

Hi
The bike is a bit underpowerd to be honest.But saying that should work quite well restricted
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"Nitrous is like a cheap hooker, you want to hit it but are scared of the consequences

[blurredman]

Same engine as GPZ5 and ER5

Reliable mechanically as far as stories say. (other than the first generation gpz5).


All tuned differently, and I guess because this is more for the offroad tourer type, geared differently aswel..

I can't tell you anything specific about the KLE though mate sorry.
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CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.

[MarJay]

Yeah its as good as any bike to restrict. You won't be lopping off loads of power compared to a 1000cc bike etc so it should go all right with the restriction in place.
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.

[robocog]

Almost identical engine to the GPZ500 as stated
(think the cams and ignition module are different from what I have read)

Just had my 2 years of restriction on my GPZ500 and it took the restriction very well indeed (eBay washers)
20 min job to fit / remove
Didn't have to do anything else like twiddle the mixture screw

When the washers came out last month there was no discernable difference in power below 5 / 6k I'd say

bear in mind I generally just commute to and from work a short distance that is short enough that I never get it up to full working temp and get condensate in the oil over winter periods - I do tend to short shift till its showing halfway on the temp gauge as I'm my own mechanic and have no intention of selling it and don't get myself together in enough time to leave the bike warming up (and certainly dont have time to fanny around rebuilding engines prematurely)

The transition from restricted to de restricted was pretty much un noticable by my seat of the pants dyno for my daily commute...but then its all 30 MPH limits anyway for me

7k RPM to redline its definately noticable that is no longer restricted

Fuel ecconomy wise - can't say I've noticed any difference and still get 170/180 miles to reserve from being brimmed - same as when restricted

Engine sounds like it belongs on a lawnmower - but just dandy at doing its job
(not going to jinx mine by saying how reliable and low maintenance its been ...DOH!)

Parts wise - I know that was a major factor in me getting the GPZ
I reckon I could rebuild several complete GPZ's by picking up parts from eBay - even if I restricted the searches to sub 20 miles and buy it now's only (but then they did build them for a L O N G time)

I guess the KLE has its power delivery lower down the rev range because of the cams and ignition (and the type of bike it is) so not sure if the restriction would be more evident
Again this is just a wild stab in the dark worst case scenario guess based on nothing

Regardless I'm sure it will be perfectly fine for what you want

Fit a scottoiler - do the services on time and you should have a low maintenence comfy mile muncher

Regards
Rob
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Needs a bigger garage...

[Irn-Bru]

Should be a good bike for it, comfortable and predictable, go on forever. My dad has a P-reg one, which I think was before all the CAT and emissions rubbish toned it down a bit more. Not quick at all, but still gets to triple figures which is all you need for a commuter.
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KTM 990 SMT & Suzuki DR-Z 400 SM

[cdlxxvi]

[stinkwheel]

A good bike for what you want.

I rode one for a few years. It's not as rev-happy as the GPZ anyway so you tend not to ride it in the peak power with a wide open throttle. As such it should resrtrict well

An eminently practical bike and usually at a good price. The rear brake is rubbish but they all are on Kawasakis of that era. The front brake is much improved by fitting a braided steel brake line.

Check the exhaust is in good nick. OE ones are like rocking horse poo to get hold of but laser do make an aftermarket one.

They handle pretty well, very good in town and because they are a twin, much more comfortable on the open road than any of the big single offroad style bikes.

I always did an oil change at 3k and an oil and filter at 6k miles.

A wee note of caution. Mine broke three split link chains so use the rivett link. I think it might be something to do with the nylon chain-stays it's fitted with.

The only real ball-ache is the recessed fuel tap that you can't work with gloved hands. My tank eventually rusted then holed round this area so I'd suggest you spray it with corrosion inhibitor.

Check it's the right size for you though. Some people reported cramp in their legs after riding some distance.

De-restricted it'll sit all day long on the motorway at 100mph. the small fairing keeps the worst of the weather off too.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Amreet]

but, 2.2k is an awful lot for that bike!

Have a look at what 2,000 can get you when buying privately, you could probably get an africa twin or transalp if you look carefully, and they restrict well, do everything a that kwak 500 will do, just better, so shop around a bit.

The transalp engine is the same V twin as goes into the Deauville, and NTV (Which is another bike I would recommend you look into, for a 'normal bike for a normal bloke' type thing. They're cheap unpretentious workhorses which will still be fun for weekend jaunts but can carry you across continents) and even when restricting from 60bhp to 33 they are fine, don't worry about it.

[stinkwheel]

[cdlxxvi]

[stinkwheel]

I wouldn't be so worried about age as mileage and condition.

Expand the search a little and you find THIS

Half the mileage, £600 cheaper and it's a honda.

Wingrack and baglux cover fitted.

Just check under the tank cover, they're sometime fitted to cover scratches/dents.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[cdlxxvi]

[Irn-Bru]

I think they were less than £4,000 brand new
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KTM 990 SMT & Suzuki DR-Z 400 SM

[blurredman]

[stinkwheel]

[Amreet]

Im with stinkwheel.

Im also willing to bet that a CB500 with twice the mileage and age of the KLE500 will outlast that KLE most likely. a new bike doesn't guarantee it will last, and an older bike doesn't guarantee that it'll dissolve after one winter.

your choice, spend way over the odds on a not so great bike or do your research, save money, and get a bike which will probably last better. While you're at it, look into doing servicing yourself, won't take long to learn, will save you more money and you will know exactly what is inside your bike, you know that the oil you put in is brand new and good quality etc. etc.

the lazy dealer buying approach for second hand bikes doesn't make sense any more, there are better bikes out there to be had like that CB500 that are a bit older but no worse.

[cdlxxvi]

[cdlxxvi]

[Amreet]

no it's not actually about statistics mate! They are broad brush strokes which are not whatsoever representative of the effect of age alone. a 10 year old CAR is VERY unlikely to have a sympathetic owner! Most cars of over 10 years are bought as cheap hacks, run into the ground and scrapped when they fail an mot. Most car owners run their cars as pure appliances, whereas bikers on the whole tend to be more 'enthusiast' type owners who actually make an effort to take care of their bikes.

I doubt very much that those stats are the same for bikes. Also some 10 year old bikes are far more likely to fail an mot than others given the same amount of time and the same standard of ownership and care. a 3 year old CBR that's been ragged and abused is more likely to fail an MOT than a 1959 Velocette that has been cherished by it's owner.

What happens when your five year old bike becomes a ten year old one? will it suddenly start failing MOTs? will you chop it in and waste 2k on another bland commuter? just based on stats?

The cost of self servicing is low and the 'profit' over dealer servicing is vast. Go call up a dealer and ask for the cost of new chain/sprockets, oil and filter change, air filter change and new spark plugs.

You could do those jobs with the original toolkit supplied with the bike or with a single socket/spanner set, find out what mechanics charge per hour. then take into consideration your lack of mechanical understanding or sympathy when you don't understand what the servicing means. You could do all those jobs in an afternoon, maybe take a whole day if you've never held a spanner before. but could save you 2/300 quid, which you can then reinvest in upgrades and repairs, leading to savings, more mechanical sympathy, and a higher quality machine.

but, it's your money, do as you wish. I don't see any argument whatsoever other than laziness for not servicing your own bike, especially something simple like a CB500, and a whole heap of disadvantages.

The thing is, it will take a lot of stuff to break before the price difference between the CB500 and the KLE is spent, many years (more years than it would take for the KLE to reach your 10 year cut off point) and honestly, there is a healthy chance that the KLE could well cost more money to run than the CB500 because the CB has a far better rep for build quality, parts availability (new and second hand) far more of them about in this country etc. etc.


basically, your view seems very black and white/narrow minded. See the bigger picture for a minute, do the sums and work out what your options are. well, that is what i would do, but i don't particularly give a toss seeing as it's your money

[cdlxxvi]

[stinkwheel]

Parts do not wear out if they are not being used.

Wear on parts is proportional to mileage, not age.

I will not be commenting further and all my previous comments still stand. By insisting on a bike of less than five years old, you are denying yourself the chance of a bargain.

I would also say you are slightly silly restricting yourself to local bikes. Widen your search area, be prepared to travel some distance to get the right bike
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[cdlxxvi]