Yamaha RXS 100 Rebuild/ Restoration.

[Stevey]

Hello all. First proper post and my first proper bike. Shall be my project over this summer.

This thread will be me documenting the repairs and hopefully having my questions answered.

Right, bought the bike on Sunday from a nice local trader for only a few quid. He was honest and said it was in need of repair as it has been abused and unloved.

So enough tell, time for some show:


https://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii537/Stevey94/DSCF2738.jpg

https://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii537/Stevey94/DSCF2707.jpg

https://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii537/Stevey94/DSCF2718.jpg

How it looked when I got it home.

Plans are to strip down and clean, replace and rebuild into a working bike. Atm the engine is seized, forks are bent, bodywork is tatty, tank dented etc.

Firstly washed the bike then took seat and tank off.

https://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii537/Stevey94/DSCF2739.jpg

That is pretty much all I got done today. My mechanical skills are basic and my knowledge more so.

A couple of questions, under the right hand panel there is this black box...

https://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii537/Stevey94/DSCF2751.jpg

Feel like there is something missing?

https://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii537/Stevey94/DSCF2755.jpg

Also here what does this black tube do? It runs into the carb so maybe an air intake/ box/ filter?

One last thing for now:

https://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii537/Stevey94/DSCF2732.jpg

https://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii537/Stevey94/DSCF2735.jpg

Many bolts are like this, what tool would you recommend please.

Thank you for reading, I am very excited with this bike but do feel a bit apprehensive about most things. Any tips and advice are appreciated. Haynes manual is in the post. Will update as and when progress is made.

Steve.

[Ham Toucher]

[N cee thirty]

i bought a impact driver especially to tackle them bolts on my rxs

the black box is the airbox,you can get a foam filter off yambits quite cheaply,the black tube from the carb attaches to the air box

join the yammy100 forum for lots of info on rxs's,i have a few spare bits i need to shift aswell
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'00 Aprilia RS50 > '92 Honda CG > '99 Yamaha Fazer > '91 Yamaha RXS > '79 Suzuki X5 > 01' Honda Cg > 07' Honda Cg > 82' Kawasaki Z200 > suzuki gsxr 400 gk73a > honda vfr 400 NC30 Mod 2 Passed 09/06/2011

Jewlio Iglesias wrote: I actually did vote BNP once

[nfo]

Looks like a good project, not too far gone but plenty to get your teeth into. Not dissimilar condition to the Honda I'm fixing up, with a similar intent (not strictly 'restoration').

I think the black box is to keep your sandwiches in
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Mar's Law: Everything is linear if plotted log-log with a fat magic marker.
1975 CB125S 'repair and tidy up' project thread here...

[chris-red]

[symonh2000]

Looks like a good project. I like RXS's.

My one needs a bit of tidying when time allows.

I am going to replace the casing screws with stainless steel socket head items.
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Four strokes is two strokes too many.

[Stevey]

Thank you for the replies. Bought an impact driver this morning and have undone a couple of the screw bolts.

Now I am having problems getting the hex bolts off. Tried using a variety of spanners and also sockets in my drill... They won't budge.

Any suggestions please, should I be using the impact driver for these as well?
____________________
Current: 50cc Suzuki scooter.
Project: Yamaha RXS 100

[symonh2000]

6 sided sockets, and plus gas should get most of the bolts undone.

I also have a set of Metrinch spanners or nuts that have rounded corners.
____________________
Four strokes is two strokes too many.

[N cee thirty]

cut a flat in the bolt to make it like a flat head screwdriver fitting, then use the impact driver to get it out
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'00 Aprilia RS50 > '92 Honda CG > '99 Yamaha Fazer > '91 Yamaha RXS > '79 Suzuki X5 > 01' Honda Cg > 07' Honda Cg > 82' Kawasaki Z200 > suzuki gsxr 400 gk73a > honda vfr 400 NC30 Mod 2 Passed 09/06/2011

Jewlio Iglesias wrote: I actually did vote BNP once

[nfo]

Plus Gas and perseverance, if in doubt swear at it a bit
____________________
Mar's Law: Everything is linear if plotted log-log with a fat magic marker.
1975 CB125S 'repair and tidy up' project thread here...

[symonh2000]

Another way of getting out rounded screws it to tap the screw around with a center punch or similar. Just be careful not to slip and damage the casings.
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Four strokes is two strokes too many.

[daverwheeler]

Use an impact driver first, if that fails, the best way to deal with the rounded cross head screws is to carefully drill the head off, then use mole grips when the casing is off.
Much safer than trying to chisel or knock them round, too easy to clobber and damage the alloy casings.
Invest in some good quality sharp drills, and set the drill to the right speed.
Be wary of those easi-out extractors, they are usually made of very hard, but very brittle crap, so snap one off and you cant drill it out.

[Stevey]

Thank you, all comments are appreciated. Done a couple more hours today but not made a lot of progress. Still getting to grips with the impact driver.

Really want to get the engine and carb out and apart a.s.a.p.

Will go out tomorrow and buy some Plus gas and some decent drill bits, as have managed to snap most of mine now.

Thanks again.
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Current: 50cc Suzuki scooter.
Project: Yamaha RXS 100

[daverwheeler]

2 big mistakes people make when using drills:

1, Too much speed- the bigger the drill, the slower the speed, too fast and it won't cut and will overheat and become blunt very quickly, you can always use a drop of oil to help it cool.

2, Too much pressure -You need to keep a constant pressure on the drill, but don't force it, again it will overheat and blunt very quickly.

You'll soon learn how to get a feel for it, when you get a nice long strand of swarf ,it's cutting well.

Hope I'm not teaching you to suck eggs, just trying to save you buying bundles of drills like I did before I learned!!!

[Stevey]

The Plus Gas worked very well and I was able to get the exhaust off.

https://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii537/Stevey94/DSCF2780.jpg

Original? or go faster hole?

Then not able to do anything significant, just fiddled around with the levers and rear pegs.

This main engine to frame bolt is being troublesome, any hints? Would it be worth buying a set of box spanners as I can not get it too shift at all.

The other end is shagged.

https://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii537/Stevey94/DSCF2781.jpg

https://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii537/Stevey94/DSCF2785.jpg

Lack of progress is a bit demoralizing, but then this is all new to me.

Thank you.
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Current: 50cc Suzuki scooter.
Project: Yamaha RXS 100

[MaybeGuy]

Hole in the exhaust is standard and normal. It's so you can take the baffle out for repacking. You should do this, as well as decoke it.

Looks like you're failing pretty hard so far though. Make sure you're using the right tools, and replace the screws with cap headed bolts.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!!
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith

[N cee thirty]

hole is for a screw to go through to hold the baffle in

i'd say invest in spanners,dunno what you can do with that long bolt and nut without seeing it better

i have a rear tail light unit and chrome chainguard if you wanna buy them off me
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'00 Aprilia RS50 > '92 Honda CG > '99 Yamaha Fazer > '91 Yamaha RXS > '79 Suzuki X5 > 01' Honda Cg > 07' Honda Cg > 82' Kawasaki Z200 > suzuki gsxr 400 gk73a > honda vfr 400 NC30 Mod 2 Passed 09/06/2011

Jewlio Iglesias wrote: I actually did vote BNP once

[27cows]

Reminds me of my RXS when I first got it. Similar condition, with the mutilated screws and bent forks. I thought it might do me till the following summer...that was in 1990 and I've still go the old relic and ride it virtually daily.

First thing to do is make absolutely sure the frame isn't bent. Those forks look like it was a minor front ender, so it should be OK. But there's no point spending money, only to find the frame's buggered.

The exhaust baffle - there's about six inches at the end of it which serve no purpose at all except to cause it to seize in the pipe. I always recommend cutting that bit off (the entirely hollow bit, before you get to the silencer disc bits).

The engine bolt needs a decent quality socket and ideally a breaker bar to get maximum leverage. If the nut has started to round off, will probably need to be broken using a nut splitter.

Without wishing to sound negative, you really need to look around and see the kind of prices you'll have to pay to get the parts you need. It's extremely easy to have costs escalate and end up spending out more than you would if you'd gone out and bought a whole bike in tidy condition. A few years ago RXS bits could be had for next to nothing. I bought a whole bike in running condition for £50 and a crashed one for 20 notes, which I used for spares. Such bargains are much less common now.
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The RXS100: vehicle of choice for Chuck Norris

[paddlesat16]

Buy a Haynes Manual at the very least and the best tools you can afford, also get a decent socket set from somewhere like machine mart or Halfords.

Take lots of photo's and label your bits so you don't forget where your bits go.

Regards
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I once saw a bloke shagging a donkey.... in Saudi arabia. Theory Test Passed 26/10/09 Mod 1 Passed 26/4/10, Mod 2 Passed 7/6/10 Current Bikes Suzuki GSX1400 K5, Aprillia Pegaso 650, Suzuki DR350T.

[mintex]

I bought some of these to remove seized nuts/bolts, they work well too and have not failed me yet

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/5-piece-bolt-grip-set?da=1&TC=SRC-irwin

and this is the extension kit

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/5-piece-bolt-grip-set-expansion-set

.

[Stevey]

Quick update, was able to put quite a few hours in this week, and had success this afternoon in removing the engine. The bike is now completely stripped and all parts are bagged and labeled.

Looking forward to cleaning and repainting the frame tomorrow.

Cheers.
____________________
Current: 50cc Suzuki scooter.
Project: Yamaha RXS 100

[symonh2000]

One thing I will suggest is that you convert the electrics to 12v if you haven't already.

For about £35 and a couple of hours soldering and heatshrinking you will have much improved lights and indicators.

I am very pleased with my conversion.
When I got the bike the lights were very dim, and the battery was goosed. This I found out to be caused by the 6V regulator being shagged.

By the time I had bought a new regulator and 6v battery it would have been about half the cost of going all the way and changing to 12V
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Four strokes is two strokes too many.

[piazza]

Just picked up one of these last week. Those bloody screws seem to be made of cheese mine are buggered too Good luck with it

Any info regarding a 12 volt system would be useful, I only picked this one up to fix up and sell but it's pretty good tbh and only needs a tidy and fork seals.

[N cee thirty]

took mine out to run a few errands today and was good,reminded me there's eff all low down power
____________________
'00 Aprilia RS50 > '92 Honda CG > '99 Yamaha Fazer > '91 Yamaha RXS > '79 Suzuki X5 > 01' Honda Cg > 07' Honda Cg > 82' Kawasaki Z200 > suzuki gsxr 400 gk73a > honda vfr 400 NC30 Mod 2 Passed 09/06/2011

Jewlio Iglesias wrote: I actually did vote BNP once

[symonh2000]

12v conversion video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ljDFwVgvELI&feature=youtu.be

I am sure a 12v electrical system on an RXS would be a good selling point, as that and the brakes are the bikes main weakness's
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Four strokes is two strokes too many.