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killa
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PostPosted: 10:21 - 04 Sep 2012    Post subject: Apart from turning over your bike well... Reply with quote

What positive effects does a fresh, strong battery have on your bike's running condition?
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Bezzer
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PostPosted: 10:46 - 04 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apart from starting, a good battery gives decent back up for every other electrical system in use especially when you're not using the bike enough to put a full charge back into it, just tootling about/commuting etc. That said even the best battery can only cope so much before it needs properly topping back up by bike or charger.
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Matt-
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PostPosted: 11:04 - 04 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bezzer wrote:
Apart from starting, a good battery gives decent back up for every other electrical system in use especially when you're not using the bike enough to put a full charge back into it, just tootling about/commuting etc. That said even the best battery can only cope so much before it needs properly topping back up by bike or charger.


Bezzer has hit the nail on the head.

If you ever notice your battery to be getting weaker, sign's of bad starting and turning over, don't be afraid to just put it on charge, some mechanics say it's best to completely flatten a battery then for a full re charge is the best.

Hope this helps
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Bezzer
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PostPosted: 12:02 - 04 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matty King wrote:
[ some mechanics say it's best to completely flatten a battery then for a full re charge is the best.



That's wrong and a quick easy way to knacker your battery. Lead acid batteries don't have a "memory" like Ni Cads and don't need fully discharging, they are not built to withstand deep discharging and recharging and work better when kept as fully charged as possible which helps keep sulphation and plate bucklng at bay. You need leisure type batteries they use in caravans/boats etc for that which have stronger plates to withstand it.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 12:05 - 04 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matty King wrote:

Bezzer has hit the nail on the head.

If you ever notice your battery to be getting weaker, sign's of bad starting and turning over, don't be afraid to just put it on charge, some mechanics say it's best to completely flatten a battery then for a full re charge is the best.

Hope this helps


That's a good way to permanently damage a lead/acid or gel battery. That advice has only ever really applied to Ni-Cad cells.

Never let your battery fully discharge - recharge it as soon as the starter becomes sluggish.
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 13:11 - 04 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

flatten your battery? That the way garages can rip you off for a new battery. Typical

And yes applies to Ni-Cd cells
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 13:28 - 04 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Um, diminished load on the charging circuit, on FI bikes there's a lower chance of getting any kind of complaints from the bike itself*, and you'll also get marginally brighter lights.

I'd disregard Matty King's contribution as the regurgitated crap that it clearly is.

*On CBF125s, I've noticed that a low battery makes it bunnyhop like a total sod. Not been silly enough to test it one the SV.
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promufa
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PostPosted: 13:33 - 04 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are generaly 2 types of batteries: Deep-cycling and low cycling batteries.

Deep-cycling batteries are the type you have in a cordless phone, RC car, mobile phone etc. They are mostly Ni-MH, Ni-Cd, Li-ion and Li-polymer. These batteries are designed to give out low current over extended time periods. Complete discharging is recommended for Ni-Mh and Ni-Cd and it does not hurt Lithium batteries.

The type of batteries used in bikes/cars/boats etc are low cycling. These batteries are designed to give out lots of power in very short time (when you hit the starter button). The amount of amps the battery can deliver in 30 seconds at -18oC is the CCA number that is printed on it. All of these batteries are Pb-acid chemistry, AGM etc are just a modification of the traditional Pb-acid. These batteries do not cope with deep-cycling. Everytime you discharge a Pb-acid battery it loses about 25% of its max capacity (ie knackered). They are meant to be kept at no lower than 75% charge IIRC or lumps of sulphate salt start forming on the lead plates that cannot be dissolved again (the cause of reduced capacity).

TL;DR
lead-acid: keep topped up at all times
Ni-MH, Ni-Cd: Discharge completely before recharging
Li-Ion, Li-polymer: Can be completely discharged w/o problems
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neatbik
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PostPosted: 13:46 - 04 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

nowhere.elysium wrote:
Um, diminished load on the charging circuit, on FI bikes there's a lower chance of getting any kind of complaints from the bike itself*,


This.
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killa
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PostPosted: 15:46 - 04 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys.
I’ve replaced a rather dead battery in the TLR and since putting that in, she’s been purring away quite happily. I noticed a difference in all round performance and just wanted to know a bit more about weak or dead batteries. Thumbs Up
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 04 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matty King wrote:
some mechanics say it's best to completely flatten a battery then for a full re charge is the best.


That's why 'some mechanics' will always only ever be mechanics. Laughing
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