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Small lightweight alternative to an acid motorbike battery?

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binge
Emo Kiddy



Joined: 03 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 16:30 - 08 Sep 2012    Post subject: Small lightweight alternative to an acid motorbike battery? Reply with quote

I'm having voltage regulation issues with the Chaly.

With the small Reg/Rec fitted, it will run fine, but once I put my lights on, the horn worn work properly unless I rev the engine.



With the big Reg/Rec fitted, it over charges and pops bulbs.



So either way, I NEED a battery.


Now I'm trying to work out the best solution.


Could I:


a) Run the small reg/rec, with a 12v lithium battery pack?
This will provide the umph to use the horn etc at tick over, but will also charge properly when I'm riding along, with higher revs etc.


b) Run the bigger rec/rec, and wire a battery eliminator in, instead of the battery, to soak up the excess charge.



Which of the above (If any) are possible?

Will a Li battery work? Or will it just blow up under the alternator charge of 13.5v?



Any help MUCH appreciated.




Ben
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 08 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fire panel battery. I have a tiny 12v one here but I have no idea what condition it's in. I'll put it on charge for a while and if it picks up you can have it.
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promufa
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PostPosted: 16:56 - 08 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lithium battery should work fine. You can easily charge them up to 14.4V without problems afaik. The only issue is they are more likely to die if they are left to drain completely.

EDIT: the automotive specific lithium batteries with high CCA. Not the regular (cell phone type) lithium batteries
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binge
Emo Kiddy



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PostPosted: 17:05 - 08 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only reason I ask, is because the Chaly is 6v as standard.
You can get very small 6v bike batteries, but cant find small 12v ones.

I've not got an airbox, so I have my complete wiring loom, reg/rec, flasher unit etc etc, under the tank, in place of the airbox.
I have a nice bit of room under the seat now, but still not quite enough for a 12v bike battery.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 17:07 - 08 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

There was a thread a while ago about doing a similar thing with an enfield, and the solution was to use a capacitor.

If you find the thread, put a link up, because I'm planning a similar thing with one of my 250s.
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promufa
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PostPosted: 17:11 - 08 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I ve been reading the chaly project thread. I think I sent you a link on there for some lithium batteries. They are a lot smaller than the standard lead-acid. Think they have the dimensions on the ebay ad. Have a look if they would fit would be Thumbs Up

Or as said, a large capacitor should work as well.. you only need the battery to smoothen out the reg/rec output as you ll be using the kick start. You could maybe even cook a capacitor with a decent voltage regulating transistor-type thingy to kep it steady at 13.2V or so
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binge
Emo Kiddy



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PostPosted: 17:16 - 08 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

The original reg/rec (Small one) NEEDS a battery, as the lights are all too dim. At tickover there is only 11v coming out of it.
But as soon as I blip the throttle, it goes up to a steady 13 or so.
But obviously at traffic lights, or low RPM, with the headlight on, nothing else works. Laughing
So I need something to just assist it at low RPM.


OR

With the bigger reg/rec, as you say, a capacitor/eliminator, to buffer the charging voltage.
It cooked all my bulbs, and the body of the reg/rec started to smell a bit. Confused
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promufa
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PostPosted: 17:18 - 08 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Found the ebay thing it's a small four-cell Li battery Clicky
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binge
Emo Kiddy



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PostPosted: 17:23 - 08 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

promufa wrote:
Found the ebay thing it's a small four-cell Li battery Clicky


Shocked


Looks amazing! But I was expecting something more along the lines of this;

Clicky
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:05 - 08 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Please consider what happens if you overcharge a lithium battery and DO NOT fit one to your motorcycle because they are fucking dangerous at the best of times.

There are better examples but I chose THIS ONE because they used a fairly small current to achieve the effect.

How many charging phases do you have?

If it's three, Use two of them through your small reg/rec to run the flashers, brake light and horn. Use the third through a 12v AC regulator for direct lighting. They do 12v AC regulators for enfield bullets and vespas.
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binge
Emo Kiddy



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PostPosted: 19:36 - 08 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Think it's just a single phase charging system.

The standard stator has 1 ignition coil, and one lighting coil.
I've got 1 ign coil, and 5 lighting coils, but they all exit the stator through the same 2 wires (1 pink, 1 yellow), and go into a 4 pin reg/rec. They are 2 stator input pins, and 2 electric output pins.

Never understood the AC/DC thing. I always thought 12v bike systems were all DC?

And surely running 2 for one application on the bike, and 1 for the other, will just result in them all merging into one anyway? As the entire bike loom runs the same live, wherever it comes from.

How would I wire that up?



Ben
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:41 - 08 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

A small lead-acid burglar alarm battery or one out of an emergency lighting unit might help.

12v AC direct lighting is unusual but not unheard of. As far as I know the Japanese never got the hang of it. Works really well on my Enfield. I have a standard H4 bulb in it.

You need more than one phase though.

EDIT: If you have a seperate phase, you just wire the AC phase into the input for the headlight switch with the regulator connected into the circuit somewhere. It can only come on when the engine is running anyway.

Your system sounds odd and you couldn't do it with a single phase.

The way the Japs do it from a single coil is to split the lighting coil output so the entire coil is charging the battery when the lights are off but when they're on, half charges the battery and half runs the lights. This necessitates a slightly more complex light switch because the charging system passes through it too.

They also tried to go too simple and not use a regulator. This means you have to carefully balance the wattage of the various bulbs or they either pop or fail to light fully. It's why all those 6v bikes with direct lighting are useless in the dark.

Not hard to get your head round the AC/DC thing though. ALL the output is AC anyway, your rectifier just dumps the backwards half of it to earth before it gets to the battery. That's why they use the AC because you get more useable amps from a weedy generator.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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MaybeGuy
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PostPosted: 22:55 - 08 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Couldn't you just put a capacitor in there? I had one on my KTM400 to replace the battery.
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Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 00:05 - 09 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

The battery was dead but they are cheap. This is the same one as I have here:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/yuasa-12v-1-2a-h-rechargeable-battery-/170905773127?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item27cac72447
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 01:13 - 09 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Please consider what happens if you overcharge a lithium battery and DO NOT fit one to your motorcycle because they are fucking dangerous at the best of times.

There are better examples but I chose THIS ONE because they used a fairly small current to achieve the effect.


Which is what I have said recently to Covdude.

A LiPo racing battery is supposed to be used with a total loss (non)charging system. Fitted to a bike using a standard charging system it will charge at the wrong voltage, there will be no balancing between cells and at best the LiPo will die quickly, it's considerably more likely to go up in flames. You could always fit a LiPo charge regulator but these require a constant voltage which bikes don't produce. There is also the question of vibration which they also don't like.

It sounds like the big reg/rec you have is screwed.

Consider using a 12V NiMh to run the horn and charge it off the bike.

The Ballistic Components website states that charging at over 14.4V (like a bike charging system does) will cause permanent battery damage and that you can't use maintenance type chargers with them, seems no one else bothers to read the manufacturers FAQs.
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promufa
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PostPosted: 09:14 - 09 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
stinkwheel wrote:
Please consider what happens if you overcharge a lithium battery and DO NOT fit one to your motorcycle because they are fucking dangerous at the best of times.

There are better examples but I chose THIS ONE because they used a fairly small current to achieve the effect.


Which is what I have said recently to Covdude.

A LiPo racing battery is supposed to be used with a total loss (non)charging system. Fitted to a bike using a standard charging system it will charge at the wrong voltage, there will be no balancing between cells and at best the LiPo will die quickly, it's considerably more likely to go up in flames. You could always fit a LiPo charge regulator but these require a constant voltage which bikes don't produce. There is also the question of vibration which they also don't like.

It sounds like the big reg/rec you have is screwed.

Consider using a 12V NiMh to run the horn and charge it off the bike.

The Ballistic Components website states that charging at over 14.4V (like a bike charging system does) will cause permanent battery damage and that you can't use maintenance type chargers with them, seems no one else bothers to read the manufacturers FAQs.


I dont think I have ever seen a bike charging system work at >14.4V. Normally if it is more than that it is a reason to suspect busted reg.

@binge, the battery you posted, I would keep that away from the bike. That is a proper leisure battery and will probably end up dying very quickly (with or w/o the fireworks) if you have it wired to the charging system.

Alternatively you can eliminate the charging system altogether and use that. But you will have to deal with the fact that the chaly is going to be a hybrid Razz You ll have to charge everyday
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 11:41 - 09 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

promufa wrote:

I dont think I have ever seen a bike charging system work at >14.4V. Normally if it is more than that it is a reason to suspect busted reg.


They'll spike to 15 or 16v quite happily when you switch lights off and suchlike. Takes a while for the zennor in the regulator to saturate and desaturate.

People never see this because they use digital multimeters, which by necessity have a degree of lag or you'd never get a stable display. Look at one with an analogue meter and you get a whole different picture.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 14:45 - 09 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

promufa wrote:
I dont think I have ever seen a bike charging system work at >14.4V. Normally if it is more than that it is a reason to suspect busted reg.


Look harder with the correct tools, as Stinkwheel says try an analogue meter for starts.

On a perfectly working reg/rec I would expect transients of 14.4-14.8volts and spikes of over 15V. One of the reasons lead acid batteries are still in use when battery technology has moved on so far is that they can handle transients and spikes.

When it comes to a LiPo battery sitting a couple of inches beneath my testicles I quite simply wouldn't take the risk.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 16:31 - 09 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

It should be noted that glass mat absorbtion batteries are pretty much the pinnacle of current motorcycle battery technology. It's still a lead/acid battery but not as we know it.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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promufa
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PostPosted: 20:22 - 09 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
promufa wrote:

I dont think I have ever seen a bike charging system work at >14.4V. Normally if it is more than that it is a reason to suspect busted reg.



sickup wrote:
They'll spike to 15 or 16v quite happily when you switch lights off and suchlike. Takes a while for the zennor in the regulator to saturate and desaturate.

People never see this because they use digital multimeters, which by necessity have a degree of lag or you'd never get a stable display. Look at one with an analogue meter and you get a whole different picture.


promufa wrote:

I dont think I have ever seen a bike charging system work at >14.4V. Normally if it is more than that it is a reason to suspect busted reg.



Look harder with the correct tools, as Stinkwheel says try an analogue meter for starts.

On a perfectly working reg/rec I would expect transients of 14.4-14.8volts and spikes of over 15V. One of the reasons lead acid batteries are still in use when battery technology has moved on so far is that they can handle transients and spikes.

When it comes to a LiPo battery sitting a couple of inches beneath my testicles I quite simply wouldn't take the risk.


Fair enough. I haven't used an analogue multimeter for years so I am inclined to think you are right about the spikes. Just didnt think a milisecond spike would be enough to fry a battery. Good to know, since I was thinking of getting one as well but I have become quite attached to my balls over the years so I ll pass.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 22:01 - 09 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

promufa wrote:
Fair enough. I haven't used an analogue multimeter for years so I am inclined to think you are right about the spikes. Just didnt think a milisecond spike would be enough to fry a battery. Good to know, since I was thinking of getting one as well but I have become quite attached to my balls over the years so I ll pass.


Have a look around the internet for some more videos on exploding LiPo's. It is truly shocking to me at least that people even consider putting these in a vehicle filled with petrol.

I don't know if a transient or spike would cause a catastrophic event, I just don't want to find out and would prefer no one else did. When they rate them as safe for road use then I will stop questioning them but when they sell them unwarranted for 'Race' use i say keep well away.
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 13:06 - 13 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I fly RC planes an know only too well what a lipo fire looks like


Clicky

be careful out there kids
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