Suzuki GS 125 Rebuild - Passed MOT :-)

[Efes123]

Being relatively new to the bike scene, about two years now, I passed my test last year, and decided it was time to learn a bit more about how bikes are put together. I didn’t think it would be wise, or healthy, to play with my daily ride (Honda VT500), so I started looking for a cheap 125 I could play with.

I didn’t want to spend too much, as I had a sneaky suspicion that I would be throwing a fair bit at the bike taking into account my noobness; I was bound to order wrong parts.

So, after checking on Fleabay and asking around, I ended up with a Cat B write-off 1984 Suzuki GS125.

https://www.dogfriendlysuffolk.com/bikepics/Rebuild/Suzuki-Original1.jpg

https://www.dogfriendlysuffolk.com/bikepics/Rebuild/Suzuki-Original2.jpg

As you can see, there’s no front end, but I wasn’t too bothered as I didn’t intend putting it back on the road. First things first, I botched some electrics, and got the engine to turn over, and to be honest, was surprised how good it sounded. So, the next thing was to strip it down. Being the impatient kind, I set about this with a vengeance and soon was the proud owner of a pile of bike bits, and an awful lot of bolts and nuts.

It was at this point that I had the bright idea that it would be good to get her back on the road. After a large amount of reading, I figured I’d need a new frame, as there’s no way a Cat B frame is allowed back on the road. A bit of begging later, and I was the proud owner of a new frame, and front wheel.

First off, strip the new frame and give it a nice coat of Hammerite;
Next, get a gallon of degreaser, a big bucket, and dump all the bits and bob into said bucket.

https://www.dogfriendlysuffolk.com/bikepics/Rebuild/new_frame1.jpg

While that lot was soaking, I set about removing the engine from the old frame;

https://www.dogfriendlysuffolk.com/bikepics/Rebuild/IMG-20120517-00047.jpg

Cleaning it up, and giving it a quick spray with high temp black and silver.

https://www.dogfriendlysuffolk.com/bikepics/Rebuild/Suzuki-Engine_Wheels.jpg

I did spend a while cleaning the front wheel, but will need to spend a bit longer on the rear. Now, slap the engine back in the new frame, and attach the wheels. It was at this time that the other half decided she was going to do her CBT. Although I was very happy about that, it meant that I knew I would have to spend that little extra to make sure the bike looked as good as it could.

Starting to look half decent A complete re-wire later, and we’re starting to cook with gas.

https://www.dogfriendlysuffolk.com/bikepics/Rebuild/Ipswich-20121019-00359.jpg

https://www.dogfriendlysuffolk.com/bikepics/Rebuild/Ipswich-20121019-00360.jpg

The sharp eyed amongst you will have noticed the change in forks. The first lot I got for £20 off Fleabay, unfortunately, they were for the version with a front drum brake, so I had to go for a new set.

I've still a bit to do, as I'm having trouble starting her at the moment The missus has booked her CBT for the 10th, so I need to get the last bits done fairly quickly.
____________________
Honda Goldwing GL 1000 Current love
Honda VT500 ED - SOLD
Projects Suzuki GS125 Done, then stolen - Kawasaki GPX750R SOLD - Honda VF750S SOLD

[mr-jermy]

You've done and awesome job with that, looks awesome

[Efes123]

[GrumpyGuts]

The engine is piss easy. I tore that bastard apart when I had my EN 125 (Exactly the same engine as the GS) so if you need any help, ask

EDIT: Go on my profile and you'll see my thread about changing the head gasket, which led to the piston being replaced with me wondering why the cam chain was loose
____________________
My Bikes: Lifan Beat 125cc '11 -> Suzuki B120P '76 -> Suzuki EN 125-2A '08 -> Honda CG 125 '04 -> Honda CB600F Hornet '98 -> Kawasaki ZZR 600 '99 -> Kawasaki GPZ 500S '95 (Current)
Theory test passed - 09/02/2012 >>>> Module 1 passed 24/07/2012 >>>> Module 2 passed 24/10/2012

[Efes123]

[Efes123]

Right, brand new Jap starter motor fitted Could have got a chinese one for half the price, but as they seem to be made out of chewing gum and tin foil, I thought I'd go for quality.

So far I've bought new;
forks
carb
spark plug
battery
indicators
exhaust
and now starter motor

Along with new rubbers and seals etc. the cost is running at around £700. I don't mind, too much, as it's still cheaper than buying an equivelent, but I'd rather not spend much more.

I tried to start her again yesterday but despite firing for a couple of seconds, she died straight away. I'm thinking it's got to be mixture. So, more research, and more trial and error on the cards for today.
____________________
Honda Goldwing GL 1000 Current love
Honda VT500 ED - SOLD
Projects Suzuki GS125 Done, then stolen - Kawasaki GPX750R SOLD - Honda VF750S SOLD

[at106]

The bike's looking good When i rebuilt mine it cost a lot more than i expected but it didn't really matter as i also learn a lot!

A for the running issues have you checked the following,
fresh fuel
fuel flowing to carb
jets, float height and needle position correct, if you need specs from the manual let me know
tried playing with the choke while trying to start?
blocking the carb intake
put fuel down the spark plug hole to get it to fire
checked valve clearances
easy start

That's all i can think of at the moment but it should give you something to check!

[Efes123]

Finally got the bike started. Turned out to be some carbon build up on the kill switch. So, whilst it was off, it was putting a small resistance through the circuit. Engine sounds really sweet
____________________
Honda Goldwing GL 1000 Current love
Honda VT500 ED - SOLD
Projects Suzuki GS125 Done, then stolen - Kawasaki GPX750R SOLD - Honda VF750S SOLD

[GrumpyGuts]

Video or it didn't happen
____________________
My Bikes: Lifan Beat 125cc '11 -> Suzuki B120P '76 -> Suzuki EN 125-2A '08 -> Honda CG 125 '04 -> Honda CB600F Hornet '98 -> Kawasaki ZZR 600 '99 -> Kawasaki GPZ 500S '95 (Current)
Theory test passed - 09/02/2012 >>>> Module 1 passed 24/07/2012 >>>> Module 2 passed 24/10/2012

[Efes123]

[Efes123]

OK. I seem to have aome play in the yoke, and I feel as though I'm missing a part. The yoke looks like this;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUZUKI-GS125-1988-BOTTOM-YOKE-BREAKING-BIKE-4-SPARES-/281002135833?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item416d085119

All I have is a rubber cap that sits on the top, under the main screw. Looking at the top end of the yoke, there are 4 slots cut out, you can just see them at the bottom of the picture. What goes here? It looks as though something should slot into it, not just have a rubber cap, tope of yoke, then the screw
____________________
Honda Goldwing GL 1000 Current love
Honda VT500 ED - SOLD
Projects Suzuki GS125 Done, then stolen - Kawasaki GPX750R SOLD - Honda VF750S SOLD

[GrumpyGuts]

Brooks Barn. They have everything you can imagine for this bike. Look there. I would send you the Haynes manual but the new owner has it
____________________
My Bikes: Lifan Beat 125cc '11 -> Suzuki B120P '76 -> Suzuki EN 125-2A '08 -> Honda CG 125 '04 -> Honda CB600F Hornet '98 -> Kawasaki ZZR 600 '99 -> Kawasaki GPZ 500S '95 (Current)
Theory test passed - 09/02/2012 >>>> Module 1 passed 24/07/2012 >>>> Module 2 passed 24/10/2012

[pdg]

[Efes123]

[Efes123]

[cb1rocket]

head bearings adjusted and done up?

[GrumpyGuts]

[Efes123]

[cb1rocket]

[pdg]

If by 'straight' bearings you mean round, then they should be 1/4". Usually 18 or 19 on each side (put them in, then when it looks like one more will just fit, leave a gap).

Proper bearing supplier will be cheapest, then pushbike shop, or if you're feeling very rich go to a Suzuki dealer (or ask in the dealer first to confirm the size and amount...)

[pdg]

[Efes123]

[pdg]

That scootershop link is for a set of ball bearings, pictured in races. They may even be captive, but they are still balls.

The gs never had captive bearings, they had loose balls running between two races.

Oh, and I know the difference between tapered roller bearings and ball bearings, I also know what a head tube is. But whatever.

[Efes123]

Yeah, I know they're balls, it's the container the balls are in that I'm talking about being tapered. The tapered ones won't fit into the existing yoke 'tube'
____________________
Honda Goldwing GL 1000 Current love
Honda VT500 ED - SOLD
Projects Suzuki GS125 Done, then stolen - Kawasaki GPX750R SOLD - Honda VF750S SOLD

[pdg]

The picture of the bearing is of a tapered roller - it doesn't use balls, it uses rollers.

If your existing headset bearing race (bit in the tube) doesn't accept the tapered rollers then it needs balls - or you can tap out the ball race and press in new taper races.

At the top, there should be a bit under the nut (circle with 4 slots) on the yoke steerer tube that is the other race. At the bottom, the headset race will look the same as the top, but the yoke race will be pressed on to the steerer tube.