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Daytona 650 winter fannying about... Done, for now..

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stonesie
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PostPosted: 20:22 - 21 Jan 2013    Post subject: Daytona 650 winter fannying about... Done, for now.. Reply with quote

I thought a thread here would be good to share my tinkering's, so here goes...


First off I want the suspension doing, after rave reviews and personal recommendations Reactive Suspension are getting the work which will be confirmed when I drop the bits off on Wednesday (19/12/12) but so far I am thinking of going all in on the forks (full strip/rebuild with new springs and a re-valve) and just refresh the rear shock.

Pics of where the bike is at the moment...

https://www.tankslap.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/12715/DSCF0429.JPG


https://www.tankslap.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/12715/DSCF0430.JPG


https://www.tankslap.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/12715/DSCF0433.JPG


https://www.tankslap.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/12715/DSCF0432.JPG


Last edited by stonesie on 18:13 - 31 Mar 2013; edited 3 times in total
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 20:31 - 21 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The head bearings are being replaced with a new like for like top bearing and a taper roller lower bearing (the 600 has taper roller's in the lower bearing, for some reason the 650 used ball bearings)

Lower bearing (650) 30x55x17
Upper bearing (650) 25x52x15

Just in-case anyone wants the sizes and Ebay item number 281033916184 for the lower seal.


Also in the pipeline is a slightly revised colour scheme, the black sticker at the bottom of the lowers is going to become paint in Triumph Phantom Black, which is also going to be used on the wheels and maybe the hugger.
The Ermax under tray has bugged me since I bought the bike, the right hand indicator is an inch further forward than the left. What the hell? 5 seconds more thought by the chimp that drilled the holes... FFS!

Not finished yet, the wiring loom has at least one broken wire in it (permanent live to the clocks) so I will be opening the loom to repair/replace that wire and remove my patch, better known as a length of speaker cable. Also upgrade the feeds to the headlights and run everything through the existing relays and wire in a speed4 light switch... And a battery monitor light, maybe a gear position indicator too.

Aside from all that it needs a 12K service too, valve clearance check time and repairs to the stator wiring.... I've got some fun ahead.
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 20:32 - 21 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excuse the poor MS paint effort and outdated can but here is an idea of the slightly revised paint scheme, I will also loose the rim tape. Fortunately I have 2 huggers so I can have one Yellow and one black, mine split and got plastic welded so I bought a cheap red one.


Any ideas are welcome.




https://www.tankslap.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/12715/DSCF0364.JPG
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 20:44 - 21 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is it on it's last ride before being taken apart, I was toying with getting rid of the 'Shopping list'



https://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/266534_10151405536223436_483930041_o.jpg







Might put a pair of these on there

https://www.blackwatergraphics.net/shop/ccdata/images/imageMain_5_329.jpg
but white on the black background.
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 20:44 - 21 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well that's the expensive bit dropped off.
Forks
Re valve
Springs to my weight
Bushes, Seals and oil
Lowers powder coated gloss black
Stansions polished to remove slight stone chip damage, not bad enough to need a re-chrome.

Shock
New seals, bushes and oil.



With all that the bike will be amazing, now to improve this chimp that sits on it...

Ron Haslam race school might be getting a call...

https://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/547369_10151406341678436_1187556208_n.jpg
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 20:45 - 21 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today I did buy the bike a Christmas prezzy, it is a PZRacing Geartronic2. Supposed to be faster and more reliable than Acumen.

https://www.pzracing.it
The background colour can be set to any of these and the shift light shows up in 5 stages, looks good to me.
https://www.road-race-service.de/images/geartronic_2.jpg


Last edited by stonesie on 21:58 - 21 Jan 2013; edited 1 time in total
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 21 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some slight progress, I got the loom partially stripped and found the cause of my electrical gremlin that struck last year killing the permanent live to the clocks... Copper corrosion in one of the factory crimp's.

https://img9.imageshack.us/img9/8241/fbimg13576534302893084.jpg
https://img825.imageshack.us/img825/9643/imag0277n.jpg

So, the plan is to replace that wire and while i'm in there I will replace and upgrade the feeds to the headlights and fit a spur for the gear indicator, some other general tidying up and then use that roll of self amalgamating tape to re wrap it.
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 21 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had a bit more time on the loom and removed the charge connector for the reg/rec completely as it was redundant with the mosfet, the feeds to the headlight relays are rated at 33A which will see to the demands of all 4 elements being on (330W at 12V = 27.5A so they have a 30A fuse too) with 11A wires from the relays to each bulb. The Earth is also 33A and runs to the main Earth point on the engine.

The broken wire has been replaced and runs unbroken all the way to about 3" short of the clocks where it is spliced to the old wire, where the other wires join it the insulation was stripped, other wires wrapped around it + Solder* + heat shrink.

The old half supply to the lights now only triggers the relays so it has some spare capacity, so I have branched off it at the front fuse box and it can supply 2 accessory circuits as long as the total current is less than 20A... The relays will take less than 0.5A i should think, the volt light and gear indicator are rated in Milliamps so I 'could' easily have heated grips(shocked) Naaah...

Just got to do some final checks and make sure I haven't missed anything, then re-wrap it.

The new fuse box fittings needed the tang removing from the back and a little shave underneath for the latch to hold them, the headlights now enjoy their own independent circuit.
https://img841.imageshack.us/img841/4928/imag0285q.jpg
https://img547.imageshack.us/img547/3599/imag0284.jpg
https://img825.imageshack.us/img825/2127/imag0287d.jpg
https://img850.imageshack.us/img850/8053/imag0288t.jpg
https://img849.imageshack.us/img849/5036/imag0289q.jpg


* I tried to keep the solder minimal, I don't want a big solid lump in the wire that will fatigue over time but i did want it all the way through.
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 20:45 - 22 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did some more today, Fitted a spur off the clocks to run the gear position indicator with earth, speed and revs soldered to the actual pins and the live fed through to one of the spare sockets in the front fuse box, hopefully there will be minimal voltage drop on the now very under stressed circuit so the voltage light can use the same feed. (it used to trigger the relays and run one dip and one main beam, now it just triggers the relays and powers today's accessorys)
Then wrapped the main loom with self amalgamating tape*, most of the spurs have been left alone as I didn't see a need to tamper with things which work and show no external signs of damage.
I did have another go at the solder in the 2nd pic, it had only taken on one side.

https://img40.imageshack.us/img40/5299/imag0291k.jpg
https://img72.imageshack.us/img72/2440/imag0292ga.jpg
https://img853.imageshack.us/img853/9568/imag0293n.jpg


*Funky stuff, only sticks to itself and after a few hours becomes one solid piece and totally waterproof.
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Nexus Icon
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PostPosted: 21:54 - 22 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just my opinion but I can't help feel that the black lower and hugger combo would work better if the undertray was done in the same colour.
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 22:03 - 22 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see what you mean, I will have a word with the paintshop when i go for quotes.
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 00:52 - 28 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

What are peoples opinions on Talon alloy sprockets? will they wear scary quick?

I want to go up 1 tooth on the rear and see what happens... maybe 2.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 11:19 - 28 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

stonesie wrote:
What are peoples opinions on Talon alloy sprockets? will they wear scary quick?

I want to go up 1 tooth on the rear and see what happens... maybe 2.


You won't notice 1 tooth on the rear.

Where you were doing 60mph before now the same revs will be 58.7.

Go to at lest 3 teeth up on the rear or drop one on the front. Thumbs Up
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 11:34 - 28 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't really want to drop the front any really, the bike chews chain slipper blocks with the standard gearing Laughing


Also I've been to York today to collect my forks and shock, they look great and apparently the rear shock was in surprisingly good condition, the forks, not so much. Unfortunately the rear shock compression adjuster was already seized and snapped internally, but it's 'in the ballpark' for my weight and use and we agreed that it will do for now... Ebay scanning for a better one begins.
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 15:19 - 03 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not much to show, the valve clearences are mostly fine but as always there's some that need attention, I'm calling the cylinder at the timing chain end number one.

1)
I 0.20, 0.20
E 0.20, 0.20

2)
I .15, .15
E .25, .25

3)
I .20, .20
E .25, .25

4)
I .18, .20
E .23, .25

Tolerance is
I .15-.25
E .20-.30

Looks like i will be needing a micrometer and some shims...
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StevenF
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PostPosted: 15:49 - 03 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's wrong with the clearances, are they not all withim the tolerances?
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 16:46 - 03 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes they are with a couple right on the edge of the spec, with bikes being so high revving the valves ware the seats so the gaps close over time, so I want some smaller shims in there so that the next 12K miles can be done without burning any valves out Thumbs Up

If I put them all to the slack end then I may get some more valvetrain clatter (Triumphs are happiest with some anyway) but they will not need touching again for years.
The plan for this year includes some track action so the engine will be getting a bit of a pasteing Twisted Evil
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StevenF
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PostPosted: 17:05 - 03 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

stonesie wrote:
Yes they are with a couple right on the edge of the spec, with bikes being so high revving the valves ware the seats so the gaps close over time, so I want some smaller shims in there so that the next 12K miles can be done without burning any valves out Thumbs Up

If I put them all to the slack end then I may get some more valvetrain clatter (Triumphs are happiest with some anyway) but they will not need touching again for years.
The plan for this year includes some track action so the engine will be getting a bit of a pasteing Twisted Evil


Ahhh I see! I was just wondering as I've recently checked mine and 2 of the valves are 0.01 or 0.02mm under the tolerance (the rest are about bang on) I was advised just to change the ones bellow the tolerance (and some people advised not to bother changing any of them for another 8k).
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 18:19 - 06 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well FUCK ME!!!

The cam caps are held in by bolts with a T30 torx head... I broke 4! T30 bits and twisted the last one (3 MAC tools ones, then I went out and bought a Teng tools one which snapped on the first attempt) but they're out Cool

I'm putting all the clearances to the middle of the range for ease and because I only need to buy 3 shims to do that.

It will have to be a call to my local Triumph dealer tomorrow.
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evoboy
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 06 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

They should'nt be that tight.

I have seen on some bikes where the cover caps havent been done up correctly and its scored the cam. ( 2004 R1 is one that springs to mind).

But never enough to snap a bit Shocked
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 06 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The book says 10 N:m Rolling Eyes

They didn't even have any thread lock on them... Cams look perfect though so that's a relief.
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StevenF
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PostPosted: 22:53 - 06 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

stonesie wrote:
Well FUCK ME!!!

The cam caps are held in by bolts with a T30 torx head... I broke 4! T30 bits and twisted the last one (3 MAC tools ones, then I went out and bought a Teng tools one which snapped on the first attempt) but they're out Cool

I'm putting all the clearances to the middle of the range for ease and because I only need to buy 3 shims to do that.

It will have to be a call to my local Triumph dealer tomorrow.


Should've left them Wink I've decided that on mine, being 0.01mm out isn't a big deal and I'll check it again in 8k miles. I can understand why you're changing them though Thumbs Up
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 20:40 - 10 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not much (any) show but a bit of tell today, Ive been getting some help from someone on another site so I will coppy-paste it here...


Chain and sprockets ordered, AFAM 14/47 steel sprockets from intobikes but they wanted £90+ post for a DID Gold VX chain, Busters via Ebay charged £70 with free postage for the exact same chain, gone up to 110 links because of the bigger rear sprocket (standard is 14/45).

Still waiting for the shims, I will pester the dealer about those tomorrow.

I might go out into the cold and clean up the suspension linkages and swinger bearings... A milestone of actually putting something back onto the bike will be happening this week.





D41
Standard is 15/45, just in case you fancy messing with gearing combos.....the first '03 bikes were 16/45.




I thought the standard for the 650 was 14 on the front? that's what the bike has on it and many Ebay chain and sprocket kits for the 650 list a 14 tooth front... Then again, it might explain why the speedo was so far out at 12% over.

I might have gone -1+2 by accident.... I see wheelies in my future Twisted Evil



D41
Nope, standard is definitely 15-tooth. I know Monty runs 14/45 as a good balance between standard gearing and a full-on track combo....I run 14/46 without any issues (other than a useless speedo!), and I've seen a few other owners run 14/47 on the road....just be sure to check your chain-rubbing strip frequently, as that 14-tooth will wear it out a bit quicker.



That explains why the old one is mangled, and at £25 a pop too... I will see how it goes.


In other news, no pictures but only 1 knackered bearing to contend with on the underside of the swing arm, it feels like it's full of sand but a replacement was £7.30 so no dramas.

Unfortunately the wheel bearings are all for the bin, the powder coating process would ruin them anyway so when they were changed last year I only fitted cheap ones, SKF sealed bearings and new seals are being ordered tomorrow.
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 17:48 - 16 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Meh
https://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/69592_10151538728983436_1219571449_n.jpg

They probably wont be much benefit but they're in now.


https://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/377743_10151538732118436_984591443_n.jpg

Nice for 5 minuets of work.

https://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/13197_10151538733138436_46485119_n.jpg

All clearances are bang in the middle now, timed up and buttoned up.

The wheels are off being powder coated in gloss black, and the new bearing is in the swing arm but i've been sent the wrong oil seals... Progress should speed up next week.




Edit, turns out the Triumph parts listing on worldoftriumph is WRONG! the oil seals for the swing arm spindle are not the size listed on there (32x25x4) they are 35x25x4 Rolling Eyes
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 12:30 - 19 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just finished replacing the TB rubbers and thoroughly cleaning and re-greasing the TB's and all the springs and linkages, they are back on and covered with a strip of duct tape.
Battery trey cleaned out and had a go at de-greasing the back of the engine, no idea whats on the front of the block/sump but brake cleaner didn't shift it, neither did 'Gunk' so paraffin is up next...

Just waiting for the seals for the swing arm, the wiring loom blocks access to the bolt head for the top shock mount so I don't want to fit that until the shock bolt is torqued up.

Plenty to be getting on with and I've committed to a charity ride (Sheffield Egg Run) so have a firm deadline now, 29th of may, shouldn't be a problem and if it's anything like last year the cooling fan will get a good workout.
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