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Where to find a screen for GK71F?

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Alpha-9
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PostPosted: 11:53 - 12 Mar 2013    Post subject: Where to find a screen for GK71F? Reply with quote

Hi

Trying to find a screen that fits this bike as it's missing it
I got this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160938546744?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 with wishful thinking but it doesn't fit, nearly though!

Big gap at the bottom

Any advice? Anyone that can make one? Razz
Only want a chinese crappy one, don't wanna pay over £40 really

https://s8.postimage.org/q6gw2r5xw/IMG_20130302_00101.jpg
bike is this...
1988 GSXR400 GK71F apparently, not GK73A
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haroman666
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PostPosted: 12:26 - 12 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

'88 should be a GK73a. Has it had an engine transplant?
Not sure if any of these will help:
https://idealhere.co.uk/WindScreen-For-Suzuki-GSXR-GSX-R-400-GK73A_p1224.html

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WindScreen-Suzuki-GSXR-GSX-R-400-GK73A-/380477685839
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Alpha-9
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PostPosted: 14:56 - 12 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

haroman666 wrote:

Are you certain?
Pretty sure that's incorrect, I know what you mean though i've been having trouble finding the right stuff

I bought that one, it doesn't quite fit, unless there's a weird shaped strip under it
https://s21.postimage.org/t7imukc6v/IMG_20130312_00123.jpg
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haroman666
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PostPosted: 15:48 - 12 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.suzukicycles.org/GSX-R-series/GSX-R400.shtml

That's generally my source of info regarding the GSXR/Bandit 4's.

Your fairings look like the GK71f. I'd double check the year if I were you dude. It's possibly an 86, according to that link. Unless ofcourse you have some sort of GSXR Mongrel.

That does look rather funny though Laughing
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Speed
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PostPosted: 15:52 - 12 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might be worth giving fireyphoenix1989 a PM as he stripped and rebuilt one last year in show and tell.
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Alpha-9
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PostPosted: 17:39 - 12 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

BLUEX5 wrote:

I know I have, I looked at it and the holes and it looked like they'd line up so I took a chance on it, wasn't expensive, might give it away on the thread

Aha yes I came across this one browsing at work, i'm guessing it doesn't look like the picture

Ta for the link Thumbs Up
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Alpha-9
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PostPosted: 12:44 - 13 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dropped them an email, was assured it'd fit, seems legit

Changed all the plugs yesterday, the one in cylinder 3 REALLY wanted to be cross threaded so I learned from my mistakes and instead of raging at it I removed the radiator pipe and made some more space and sat on the bike so it was upright and tried again, got it in straight now seemingly Cool


First signs of life in the thing after some easy start and a battery charge, and boy-o-boy it sounds nice Clapping
Not got it idling yet though, hmm
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haroman666
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PostPosted: 12:50 - 13 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alpha-9 wrote:
Not got it idling yet though, hmm


Try playing with the pilot screws on the bottom of the carbs Thumbs Up

Factory setting is 1.5 turns out but that's very lean/slow for emissions (So i've been told) and you're better off setting them to around 2.5 turns out to start with and then adjusting each cylinder to smooth the idle out thereafter.
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Alpha-9
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PostPosted: 12:53 - 13 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

haroman666 wrote:
Alpha-9 wrote:
Not got it idling yet though, hmm


Try playing with the pilot screws on the bottom of the carbs Thumbs Up

Factory setting is 1.5 turns out but that's very lean/slow for emissions (So i've been told) and you're better off setting them to around 2.5 turns out to start with and then adjusting each cylinder to smooth the idle out thereafter.

Ta

It's kind of confusing to me but looking at it seems simple, as there's sort of one float bowl (I think that's what it is!) for each 2 air intakes

like this
https://i381.photobucket.com/albums/oo256/fireyphoenix1989/DSC03076-1.jpg

I'm aware the black thing after that with the allen key bolts is the cam chain cover?
Noob learning time, think i'll pick up a haynes carb manual Cool
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haroman666
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PostPosted: 13:06 - 13 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alpha-9 wrote:
Ta

It's kind of confusing to me but looking at it seems simple, as there's sort of one float bowl (I think that's what it is!) for each 2 air intakes

like this

I'm aware the black thing after that with the allen key bolts is the cam chain cover?
Noob learning time, think i'll pick up a haynes carb manual Cool

Ahh right, Dual carbs.

Never worked on those before. I've only work on a 1 carb per cylinder bike.
I'm sure the theory is exactly the same. Each pair of carbs will draw from the same float bowl but they'll all have individual adjustments for the jets etc.

Try torrenting a workshop manual for the bike. Dunno if you'll be able to find a haynes. And also read up on the theory of how carbs work. Before I pulled mine apart I looked up how they actually worked, which meant I could identify which hole was for which fuel circuit and all that guff.

And you're correct; the black thing is indeed your cam-cover Mr. Green Thumbs Up
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Alpha-9
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PostPosted: 13:29 - 13 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

haroman666 wrote:
Alpha-9 wrote:
Ta

It's kind of confusing to me but looking at it seems simple, as there's sort of one float bowl (I think that's what it is!) for each 2 air intakes

like this

I'm aware the black thing after that with the allen key bolts is the cam chain cover?
Noob learning time, think i'll pick up a haynes carb manual Cool

Ahh right, Dual carbs.

Never worked on those before. I've only work on a 1 carb per cylinder bike.
I'm sure the theory is exactly the same. Each pair of carbs will draw from the same float bowl but they'll all have individual adjustments for the jets etc.

Try torrenting a workshop manual for the bike. Dunno if you'll be able to find a haynes. And also read up on the theory of how carbs work. Before I pulled mine apart I looked up how they actually worked, which meant I could identify which hole was for which fuel circuit and all that guff.

And you're correct; the black thing is indeed your cam-cover Mr. Green Thumbs Up

The manuals are all in japanese

Fancy buying an import where there's only 500 of them and a model which wasn't made for very long anyway Razz
I did a DVLA check and it came back as an '89, so not sure what the seller was on
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Alpha-9
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PostPosted: 09:53 - 14 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey haroman

As it's duel carbs to balance it do I only need 2 balancers? As I was going to buy a set of 4 which is twice the price for ease of use

As I noticed there is a flat head screw on each one that just comes out and is just a hole, which is I think where you put the balancing thing
I need some newb help

https://s10.postimage.org/5w7b37wfd/asdfasdf.jpg
So I could take those bowls off and clean out the insides and I should be gravy?

Seems easy Thumbs Up


https://img216.imageshack.us/img216/9889/airboxside9id.jpg
Whats the nob thing I? Seems to tighten up the throttle or something?
The sticky out things at the bottom, they the mix screws?
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P.
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PostPosted: 09:57 - 14 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Knob is idle adjust. Big circled jets are main jets.

Long skinny one, I do not know... Laughing
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haroman666
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PostPosted: 11:08 - 14 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm doing all this from memory so bear with me.

I cant tell, from the pictures, whether you have 2 or 4 balancing ports. My advice is get 4, as in the future you may need 4. Although you can do anything with a 2 balancer, but it kinda makes it more long winded as you have to take it off and put it on over and over again. A balancer obviously just uses rubber tubes that attach somewhere on the carb, normally near the top, so if it looks like a pipe attaches there, then that's probably it.

The black tops are caps for the "slide valves" to come out. You shouldn't need to take those off.

The float bowls are on the bottom. Take those off and you'll see the next picture.

The gold bits with the slot (big ones), are your main jets. These are what the fuel goes through from about 1/8th throttle onwards. Might be worth taking them out and blowing through them. There's no adjustment, they just screw up til just tight.

The long gold pin is, I think, is your starting circuit jet, which is basically what the choke cable actuates open and closed. Only adjustment for this is likely to be on the cable.
If it isn't it's your pilot jet which is what sucks up the fuel for idling. There's no adjustment to this fuel jet, it's all on the pilot screw, which meters the air that passes through the main body of the carb.

The gold hole next to the black screw is what your float valve pushes into, and this controls the level of fuel in the float bowl. By fuck don't let your float valve get stuck open. I got a bit of shit in one of mine once and it flooded the float bowl, which flooded the cylinder and hydro-locked the engine. I got away with it, but you can crack piston crowns and bend con-rods if you're not so lucky.

Float valve is part of the plastic float assembly and you'll see, if you push the float up and down, the valve that actuates. There's adjustment for this but I don't know it myself. It's normally around the 1mm mark but don't quote me on that.

Get yourself some carb cleaner/brake cleaner and just give everything a good spray through and wipe. Dont leave any shit in there, especially big bits Laughing

When you stick them back on the bike, you'll need to crank the engine over and over in order for the carbs to draw fuel from the tank and fill up the float bowls. Hopefully you have a battery charger Thumbs Up

Cant remember if I posted this, but [url=I'm doing all this from memory so bear with me.]THIS[/url] tells you the basic theory behind these types of carb.

And as reluctant as I am to post it, cause I sound like a right knob, THIS is a video I made from when I took apart my carbs. It may be of help. It may not be.
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Alpha-9
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PostPosted: 15:01 - 14 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awww yes, fucking aces again haroman, cheers for that gonna come in well handy

Have had a look at them today...
FUCKING CROSSHEAD SCREWS Y U SUCK SO MUCH?

Not worked out how to use my impact screwdriver properly Laughing
Need a better hammer...

Sprayed it all over with carb cleaner and in the intakes and took the top things off and sprayed down them, they have weird diaphragm things that seem to lift up when they fill, I assume some sort of overflow as there's a pipe coming out too, which was blocked before I blasted it
The carbs feel kinda loose, like I could just pull them off, can't actually see where they fix in, need a good day on it

Battery deaded for now, it wasn't happy about my starting attempts yesterday, back on charge now!

& Cheers Pads, thought so, seemed like a 'throttle' stop of sorts as it just stops it closing fully, handy easy idle adjustment

This is all a learning experience, these carbs seem like they'll be easy to sort as they're quite accessible other than the tank and airbox which i've gotten so very used to taking off now

Wasn't aware of the filling of the float bowls, I guess that means it needs a good amount of fuel i nit rather than the like, cup fulls i'm scavenging from the bikes Laughing

Can see the picture I posted is obviously the bottom not the top, silly me!
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haroman666
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PostPosted: 16:24 - 14 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I have a few mangled screws on mine! They do go eventually though so persistance is key.
A guy on Banditforums replaced all of his carb screws with stainless stell allen key ones, so if you want to get really flashy and do a full-rebuild then that might be something to take into account.
Impact driver is just a case of, getting it seated in the screw, apply as much turning force as you can without it slipping, and then bash the end with a hammer.

The whole unit should push into the inlet rubbers and then maybe be tightened in with a jubilee clip or equivalent. Have a look between the carbs and engine and see what's there. If the wont budge easily, give it a spray with a bit of WD40 and then they tend to slide out nicely. Which means they also go back in easily (Giggity).

Just realised that first link for the carb theory has been completely potatoed by myself.

Here it is properly this time.

I knew nothing about carbs really until I reaad that link, and then pulled mine apart.

It all looks complicated as there's shit loads of little bits all in one place. But really, once you've sussed it, it all seems quite easy.
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