Fitting highway pegs to my Enfield Bullet

[stinkwheel]

Progress so far.

Look at that engine mounting bolt, the one that's holding the exhaust bracket on. That looks meaty and in about the right place.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8406/8641403756_45425133c3_c.jpg

It's got a 1/2" BSF bolt through it. I've tried replacing this before using a long bit of studding with rubber hose over it and experienced total metal fatigue fail. Luckily before the engine fully parted company with the frame so it's going to require the application of some engineering and material technology rather than brute force and bodgery.

One trip to the steel stockholders later and I have a 12" length of EN16T steel alloy bar as recommended by a mate. Cost £7 mind, which is in some ways reassuringly expensive.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8262/8641403686_f8fc3d8190_c.jpg

There is something quite theraputic about cutting a thread. I've opted for UNF rather than BSF on the basis that dies are cheaper and it's easier to get nuts.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8246/8641403606_27d0742541_c.jpg

My mate also advised me that EN24T would be stronger still but a total sod to cut using a die. I'm glad I went with the EN16 then because this took an hour doing about 1/4 turn at a time!
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8099/8640299385_18921be73c_c.jpg

So I guess this ought to be stronger than the original, all torqued-up.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8527/8641403466_e112987505_c.jpg

A pair of genuine Enfield footpegs and rubbers take 14 days to come from Deli but only cost £6.50!
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8121/8641403392_584142cd82_c.jpg

Mock-up for position.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8404/8640299203_f9c8d0f438_c.jpg
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Thing is, if I leave it like this, I'm putting a bending force on the stud itself. This is NOT what I want to achieve but I want this setup to act as two seperate parts (ie the bit that's holding the engine in and the bit that's holding the footpeg on). If it decides to snap, I want it to do so on the threaded portion of the stud, not on the bit that's holding my engine in. What I need to do now is make a spacer to fit in the gap between the peg and the middle nut and tighten it all down against that nut using a nylok on the end. Might even drill the middle out of four nuts and use those as spacers. Does that sound like a good idea to everyone else?

The other potential fail is that the peg will have a tendancy to rotate around the threaded bar. Even if I ramshee it up really tight this could be an issue (it's a 1/2" diameter hole in them). I'm condisering a couple of options, neither of them particularly elegant if I'm being honest. One is to drill and tap the peg casting for a grubscrew. The other is to get everything where I want it, drill all the way through the footpeg casting and the stud (obviously I'd pre-drill the footpeg casting) and fit a rowl-pin.

The latter appeals most to me because it should work without damaging the threads too much. It would introduce a weakpoint in the system but perhaps that is not a bad thing, if it snaps there, I lose a footpeg rather than having the bike fold in half at the next pothole.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8118/8641403120_6611556e50_c.jpg
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[mysterious_rider]

+1 for drilling it and creating a weak spot. Sounds like the safer option chap. Personally I would have cut the bolt shorter, and tack welded it in place. Rather than break the peg, it'll just break the tack weld. Pick up off floor, put in pannier for welding later.
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KAWASAKIIIII

[Ollie1995]

Nice bike! If you ever struggle to get hold of bsf/unf fasteners my dad has tonnes.
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XR 125, DT125 LC, Greeves Scottish, RS200, XS400, GPX600r

Theory Passed - 18/7/13 MOD1 Booked - 24/9/13

[stinkwheel]

I should point out, crashing is not that much of a worry. The standard footpegs will hit the ground first and the frame is a bolt-together modular thing, if that gets damaged, you just bolt in a new bit.

My previous attempt at highway pegs made from studding self-destructed due to metal fatigue from the constant vibration. If I lose that bolt, the frame top-tube will snap in half at the next bump/pothole.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[DrDonnyBrago]

How about a serrated/locking washer?

[stinkwheel]

Finishing off time.

We left it needing spacers and some way of preventing the peg rotating on the bar.

So. Rattled the box of usefull bits of metal and found a big lump of alloy bar with a hole through it I'd had for use as a slide hammer for fitting bearings to something or other. A slice of that will do nicely.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8251/8645965758_d3f7bc8467_c.jpg

Hole in the middle is a bit big though, it'll have a tendancy to rattle about. This was what Holmes would referr to as a two-pipe problem. Then "I have it!"

Drill into it half a nuts width at one end. This will butt against the nut nearest the frame in such a way as the bending moment on the pegs is acting on the studding to the outside of that nut, not on the bit that's holding the engine in. And no rattling about.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8527/8644864615_a32ce0fb3f_c.jpg

The other end is just going to be using the nut to prevent rattling so whis one wants to be sunk flush.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8250/8645965676_b521b7be19_c.jpg

This nut doesn't need the thread in it. In fact, it's better without it, it's just acting as a non-load-bearing spacer now.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8258/8645965554_d20c3f8c25_c.jpg
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8108/8644864485_e929740704_c.jpg

All bolted up. The peg itself has been through-drilled to take a rowl-pin. I have a split pin in there now because I don't have a rowl-pin. I don't think the whole stud is going to rotate, it's done up really tight but if it does, I'll fit a couple of tab-washers against the engine mounting plate to prevent rotation of those nuts.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8539/8645965430_3909f6d64c_c.jpg

Finished job. Less than £20 in parts/materials. Rather more in tools because I had to buy a die but I still have that to use again. (I hadn't realised quite how asymmetric this bike is!)
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8535/8645965374_2fafe0a758_c.jpg
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8101/8644864329_d3960cd4ae_c.jpg
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8403/8644864265_0e345a3772_c.jpg
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.