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help with wiring: no power anywhere?

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jordey
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PostPosted: 20:43 - 29 May 2013    Post subject: help with wiring: no power anywhere? Reply with quote

okay i just spent ages wiring up my tzr 125 as the bike came in parts, but theres no power to anything. speedo doesnt light up, no brake light, and the starter motor doesnt go. i charged the battery and even tried a different battery and different fuse but neither seemed to work. i must have wired something wrong, how do i find out what?
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Aff
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PostPosted: 20:52 - 29 May 2013    Post subject: Re: help with wiring: no power anywhere? Reply with quote

Get your multimeter out and start poking.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 20:57 - 29 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check your earths as well.
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jordey
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PostPosted: 21:11 - 29 May 2013    Post subject: Re: help with wiring: no power anywhere? Reply with quote

Aff wrote:
Get your multimeter out and start poking.


i got my multimeter out but have lost one of the probes so it's pretty useless to me atm!
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jordey
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PostPosted: 21:13 - 29 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:
Check your earths as well.


its earthed by the rectifier, and also under the coil by the engine mount. ive also earthed the negative from the battery here?
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Efes123
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PostPosted: 05:40 - 30 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

As you have no power, it should be relatively simple to find. Just follow your main live feeds between the ignition and the battery (and the main earth from the battery). And get a proper multimeter, they're only a fiver
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 09:05 - 30 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you haven't got a multimeter you can do a lot with just a bulb and two bits of wire.
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jordey
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PostPosted: 12:45 - 30 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

unitynotsocrippledatmo wrote:
as other posters,just remember youre lucky as it appears to be a singular wire fault.

check all the connector blocks and electrical pins inside for cleanliness and tightness.

if its a fault from the generator earth you could link a wire from the engin/alternator case to the earth,but do all the simple stuff first..............fuse,charged battery etc.

if you dont have a meter then use a small bulb with two wires on it to test for 'continuity'.....e.g.put one wire on the engine/frame/battery earth and prod around with the other wire seeing if power is getting to the clocks/lights etc...... make sure you test with ignition switched on...........i'd take a poke and say that your engines not earthed to the frame/battery.

good luck...


yeah the frame has been painted so i thought it could just have been poor grounds. i took both earths off, sanded down the rings a little to remove any dirt/ rust for a better connection, then sanded down the grounds on the frame so bare metal was showing. bolted the earths back to the frame again, still nothing. the wiring diagram isnt so clear in regards to the battery, would the negative be grounded at the same point as the ignition coil?

i'm going to be getting a new multimeter later today so i can start poking about, what/ where should i be checking?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 13:16 - 30 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

jordey wrote:


i'm going to be getting a new multimeter later today so i can start poking about, what/ where should i be checking?


Fix the neg probe to the frame and check the battery voltage at the positive terminal. If it shows battery voltage your earths are ok, so work your way from there.

https://s675.photobucket.com/user/hmmmnz2/media/yamaha/tzr125colour.jpg.html

Red from the battery goes through the fuse then straight to the ignition switch. Un-plug the switch and check the loom connector for voltage at the red wire terminal. If you get nothing inspect the fuse holder or the connection after it. If you have power at that red terminal check the ignition switch - turn it to 'ON' and check continuity between red and brown OR plug the switch into the loom, turn it on and check the brown wire at the horn because brown is switched live.
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jordey
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PostPosted: 14:03 - 30 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
jordey wrote:


i'm going to be getting a new multimeter later today so i can start poking about, what/ where should i be checking?


Fix the neg probe to the frame and check the battery voltage at the positive terminal. If it shows battery voltage your earths are ok, so work your way from there.

https://s675.photobucket.com/user/hmmmnz2/media/yamaha/tzr125colour.jpg.html

Red from the battery goes through the fuse then straight to the ignition switch. Un-plug the switch and check the loom connector for voltage at the red wire terminal. If you get nothing inspect the fuse holder or the connection after it. If you have power at that red terminal check the ignition switch - turn it to 'ON' and check continuity between red and brown OR plug the switch into the loom, turn it on and check the brown wire at the horn because brown is switched live.


okay so ive checked the battery, its coming out as 11.64. checked both earths (probe on positive and probe on earth) and both are reading 11.64. checked the positive at the fuse box to the negative at the battery and its coming out as 11.64. checked the connection for the on switch at the fuse box and again 11.64. the ignition switch doesnt look in the best condition so im thinking it could be that. if its not that then im stumped Confused
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Islander
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PostPosted: 14:10 - 30 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Switch the ignition on and measure the voltage at the live terminal (the one you just measured) and then the output (switched live) terminal. They should be the same. If there's nothing there then it might be the switch. You can verify that by doing a continuity (resistance) check between the live and switched terminals while operating the switch.
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jordey
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PostPosted: 15:41 - 30 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:
Switch the ignition on and measure the voltage at the live terminal (the one you just measured) and then the output (switched live) terminal. They should be the same. If there's nothing there then it might be the switch. You can verify that by doing a continuity (resistance) check between the live and switched terminals while operating the switch.


unless im measuring it wrong, i dont seem to be getting anything from the switch. im getting 11.6 at the horn so i assume this means my wiring is okay?

im gonna open up the switch to see if theres any loose or broken connections. getting pretty frustrated now i just want the thing to start...
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:18 - 30 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're getting power at the brown wire to the horn, then the bike is powered up and the switch is working, for power anyway.

Press the horn, does it go peep peep?
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jordey
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PostPosted: 19:08 - 30 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
If you're getting power at the brown wire to the horn, then the bike is powered up and the switch is working, for power anyway.

Press the horn, does it go peep peep?


im thinking maybe im checking it wrong, theres voltage at the horn terminal regardless of if the bike is on or off, or ignition turned. how should i be measuring it/ where should the probes be?
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Turkish
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PostPosted: 19:59 - 30 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like you have the probes connected ass about face.

Connect the black lead to the negative terminal (or ground). The red lead will be your 'probing' wire.

With the probing wire, put it on the positive terminal - you should get battery voltage. Then check ignition switch, main relay (if present) and so on.

One side of the horn will be short to earth (Ohm function on meter), the other side should get battery voltage with the switch depressed - but then you would also hear it....

It sounds like the ignition isn't being switched on, hence nothing works, so trace this circuit. You'll be looking for a pair of wires (usually) being shorted in the on position.

Got a wiring diagram so I can be more specific?
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jordey
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PostPosted: 20:51 - 30 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Turkish wrote:
Sounds like you have the probes connected ass about face.

Connect the black lead to the negative terminal (or ground). The red lead will be your 'probing' wire.

With the probing wire, put it on the positive terminal - you should get battery voltage. Then check ignition switch, main relay (if present) and so on.

One side of the horn will be short to earth (Ohm function on meter), the other side should get battery voltage with the switch depressed - but then you would also hear it....

It sounds like the ignition isn't being switched on, hence nothing works, so trace this circuit. You'll be looking for a pair of wires (usually) being shorted in the on position.

Got a wiring diagram so I can be more specific?


yeah youre right, was being an idiot and had the probes plugged in wrong.

just checked again, getting current from the battery, current from the positive battery cable at the fuse box, and current is going to the connection at the fuse box that then goes in to the loom. it doesnt seem to be going much further than this as theres nothing at the speedo connection and nothing at the connection for the switches. one of the wires from the fuse box doesnt look so good, could this be the problem?
(theres two bits of electrical tape where a new section of wire has been put in)

https://i40.tinypic.com/2ewmkau.jpg
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jordey
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PostPosted: 21:02 - 30 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Turkish wrote:
Sounds like you have the probes connected ass about face.

Connect the black lead to the negative terminal (or ground). The red lead will be your 'probing' wire.

With the probing wire, put it on the positive terminal - you should get battery voltage. Then check ignition switch, main relay (if present) and so on.

One side of the horn will be short to earth (Ohm function on meter), the other side should get battery voltage with the switch depressed - but then you would also hear it....

It sounds like the ignition isn't being switched on, hence nothing works, so trace this circuit. You'll be looking for a pair of wires (usually) being shorted in the on position.

Got a wiring diagram so I can be more specific?


i have a wiring diagram but its in bits as i had to get it scanned from someone. ill try and put it all in one picture or find it online
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jordey
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PostPosted: 22:04 - 30 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://i39.tinypic.com/4iiltt.jpg
https://i43.tinypic.com/8why10.jpg
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jordey
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PostPosted: 19:31 - 31 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

okay so i've been poking about but still don't know what/ where the fault is.

the wire from the fuse box splits, one way goes to the ignition coil, the other then splits again, going to the rectifier one way, the rear lights, and then the ignition/ front electrics.

theres voltage (the same as the battery) both at the rectifier and the loom connection for the ignition. nowhere else seems to have voltage, apart from a few random wires with 0.1-0.4v.

the ignition barrel is f*cked and can be unlocked by anything (random keys, screwdriver) so im thinking this could be the problem
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Aff
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PostPosted: 19:35 - 31 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

You been doing continuity tests on all these wires without voltage?
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Turkish
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 31 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have 12v on the red wire going to the ignition switch?
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jordey
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PostPosted: 21:54 - 31 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aff wrote:
You been doing continuity tests on all these wires without voltage?


yeah most of them, continuity seems fine
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jordey
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PostPosted: 22:14 - 31 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Turkish wrote:
Do you have 12v on the red wire going to the ignition switch?


yeah im getting like 11.6 there, but the ignition doesnt seem to have continuity
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Aff
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PostPosted: 06:40 - 01 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

jordey wrote:
Turkish wrote:
Do you have 12v on the red wire going to the ignition switch?


yeah im getting like 11.6 there, but the ignition doesnt seem to have continuity


You tried bypassing the ignition switch?
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