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Converting to belt drive?

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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 13:52 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Converting to belt drive? Reply with quote

BMW are often quick to highlight the advantage of their belt drive over the traditional metal chain giving reasons such as less maintenance and adjustment needed along with it not rusting.

As such, I had been wondering if it's possible to convert a bike from chain drive to belt drive to take advantage?
Surely you'd just replace sprockets with belt sprockets from BMW?

Is it worth it or are BMW justifying their decision to continue using belts on their non-shaft drive bikes?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 13:58 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bike has to be designed for belt drive in the first place as alignment is far far more critical than chain drive. Plus the 'belt sprockets' as you put it are bloody expensive compared to chainwheels.

They are better, but you really need to have one on a bike that is designed for them. Plus belts are a LOT wider than chains and need extra clearance. Some also need spring loaded tensioners too.
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 14:03 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I can't convert my ZZR in a weekend then?

However I might be able to buy an old wreck and while re building it factor in a conversion?

Makes sense.


How come more bikes aren't built belt drive?
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lihp
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PostPosted: 14:10 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cost on most bikes

Strength on high power machines
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 14:18 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

So if your designing it then it's as easy to go shaft drive, BMW use belts to be able to say 'look, we're better technology wise, that's an extra £4000 please'
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MarkJ
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PostPosted: 14:19 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Black Sheep wrote:
How come more bikes aren't built belt drive?

As far as I can tell, it 'just doesn't look cool'
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Timmeh
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PostPosted: 14:23 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
They are better, but you really need to have one on a bike that is designed for them. Plus belts are a LOT wider than chains and need extra clearance. Some also need spring loaded tensioners too.


Indeed; the drive train is significantly more complicated. Hence the main reason why they still use chains, in that its smaller and less expensive.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 14:55 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Timmeh wrote:
Indeed; the drive train is significantly more complicated.

How so? Two pulleys and a belt = two sprockets and a chain.

Alignment? Oh noes, might have to drop a washer or two in to square it up.

The belt drive on my GPz305 was really rather good. Clean, quiet, no lash. And (reportedly) it's a straight conversion from pulley/belt to sprocket/chain if you feel so inclined.

I'm rather disappoint that BMW pussied out and went chain for the F800/650GS, presumably because of the silly offroad / round the world pretensions. I'd have another belt in an instant.
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G
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PostPosted: 14:59 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could have just got the 'sensible' F800S, with the belt.
But not nearly as pretentious, of course Wink.

If that weren't so damned expensive, I'd quite fancy one myself.
But as it goes, a TRX850 seems to be pretty similar and while it may drink more petrol and oil, will be pretty immune to depreciation.

Anyway - for the op - get a decent chain oiler. Sorted.

I always kinda fancied making an enclosed drive train like some small hondas and the like had.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 15:15 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Alignment? Oh noes, might have to drop a washer or two in to square it up.


Not just horizontal alignment, but directional alignment, hence belt drive bikes have no adjusters at the end of the swinging arm.

The Buell belt was excellent. No lubing, no adjusting, no lash. Just smooth drive. They generally last 15,000 miles too, and are pretty easy to replace.
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Wave2k
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PostPosted: 15:23 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Must be some disadvantages apart from cost, otherwise they would use it on the S1000RR.

Im guessing weight ?
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lihp
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PostPosted: 15:36 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chains are much stronger than belts.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 15:44 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

PhilDawson8270 wrote:
Chains are much stronger than belts.


I'm not so sure about that. Belts usually need replacing far less frequently than chains and aren't as prone to snapping. They're unlikely to lunch crankcases, legs, feet, etc. if they do too. Chains have many more points of failure and wear than a belt.

It's all down to cost IMO.

ETA this is for day-to-day road use obviously. Has anyone ever run a belt drive on the track?
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 15:48 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
Not just horizontal alignment, but directional alignment, hence belt drive bikes have no adjusters at the end of the swinging arm.

Tensioners? GPz305 did. F800S/T does.

There's a analysis/discussion of the downsides of belts here, but the counterpoint to that is that some manufacturers do fit belts, and on beefy machinery, so it's not impossible wizardry.

Not a huge deal, but I'd like belt drive on a keeper bike.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:49 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The belt drive on a GPz305 works in exactly the same way as a chain drive, just with belt and pulleys instead of chain and sprockets. It was really good. Best bit of the bike. No adjustment, no messing about with lube. Just a wee scribble with a pencil on the pulley if it started squeaking.

It's tensioned and aligned in exactly the same way as a chain using locknut adjusters on the end of the swingarm. No jockeywheels or messing about with sprung tensioners.

Doesn't have to be comlicated, it's just been made complicated by ze Germans and buell make a policy of not doing things like everyone else.

The difficulty would be in sourcing pulleys that fit and a sufficiently good quality belt. People used to use non-standard belts on the 305s and they snapped in short order. The OEM ones last for ages (I think you are supposed to change it after 20k miles).
They generally use a larger pulleys than sprockets to increase the friction and reduce bending.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 15:54 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aside, the chap who bought my GPz305 had done his homework and asked all the right questions about the usual suspect bits.

Turns out he works for an engineering firm and can source industrial belts for tank-of-fuel money, so that was his area of least concern.

There's no particular reason why belts need to be expensive except that they're (now) used on relatively snooty bikes and there's little retail competition for the OEM parts.
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C1REX
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PostPosted: 15:57 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wave2k wrote:
Must be some disadvantages apart from cost, otherwise they would use it on the S1000RR.

Im guessing weight ?


Power loss.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 16:00 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are better on bikes with widely spaced power pulses like Buells and BMW singles. An S1000RR would probably snap the belt TBH.
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Mr_T
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PostPosted: 16:05 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
Not just horizontal alignment, but directional alignment, hence belt drive bikes have no adjusters at the end of the swinging arm.


Don't they?

https://www.tb1600.com/csp/thunderbird/Uploads/Users/mat1600/PhotoAlbum/6dnu9rhhh7.jpg
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gavbriggs
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^ that's just a ford alloy bolted to the bike! Piece of piss to make, right lets get the wheel of the vara
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c-m
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PostPosted: 17:27 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think chains are something like 98% efficient when in good order. Belts are probably more like 95%, but are more likely to be in good order than most peoples chains.

By the way those figures are made up.
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 17:34 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr_T wrote:
MarJay wrote:
Not just horizontal alignment, but directional alignment, hence belt drive bikes have no adjusters at the end of the swinging arm.


Don't they?

https://www.tb1600.com/csp/thunderbird/Uploads/Users/mat1600/PhotoAlbum/6dnu9rhhh7.jpg


Apparently not.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3526686/3.jpg
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 18:34 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Black Sheep wrote:
How come more bikes aren't built belt drive?


Considering that the majority of two-wheeled registrations, even in this country are light-weight machines, of which I think something like over 2/3 ore scooters.... and it's the 'convention' on a scooter to have a belt drive, rather than anything else....

The 'popularity' of belt drive is probably a lot higher than you think; and quite possibly based on number of models or machines made, likely to be higher than that of chain drive 'bikes'!

Main thing about a belt is tension, or more specifically changing tension.

They may be toothed to aid the grip they have on the pulleys, but essentially they are transmitting drive through friction, hence you get a larger power loss than with a chain, as they have to have extra friction to grip the pulleys, but then, you also have to keep the tension very very controlled.

When you have rear suspension, unless you have the the out-put sprocket / pulley 'co-incident' with the swing-arm spindle, as the swing arm moves through its arc of travel, the distances between the sprokets changes, depending on where the out-put sprocket is in relation to the swing arm spindle...

When the swing-arm spindle, gearbox shaft and wheel axle are all aligned, then the maximum distance around the sprockets is seen. As the swing arm drops beneath that or compresses above it, so the distance between the sprockets gets less and the chain goes slack.

Of course, most scooters don't have this problem; the engine is 'sprung', moving with the swing arm, the tension held constant regardless.

So on a bike, belts only work well, if they are designed so that the out-put pulley is almost co-incident with the swing arm spindle, and or the suspension has only a limited travel / change of tension.

More the tension change due to suspension travel, more slack there has to be in the bottom run to allow it.. more slack means less tension means less grip, means less power transmission is possible.

Its a less 'robust' design solution... cost, performance, weight, efficiency, they are all just part of the design compromise, and belt technology is simply not robust enough to work and work well in so many situations
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 19:51 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Many years ago someone did try a belt drive bike in the 250cc GP series, but not sure they got anywhere with it (but plenty of other factors could affect that).

Down sides are bulk, cost, slightly greater power loss and tendency to fail without warning.

Plus points less maintenance, quieter and less likely to fail causing damage to the engine.

All the best

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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 20:36 - 26 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

My mate replaced the primary drive on his 500 Ariel and boasted that he had eliminated about 280 moving parts, unfortunately the conversion also eliminated his cush drive and this in turn eliminated his crank shaft.
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