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Removal of allen bolts from mirrors

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zimmerframeki...
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 07 Sep 2013
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PostPosted: 17:17 - 07 Sep 2013    Post subject: Removal of allen bolts from mirrors Reply with quote

Been trying to remove my fairings trouble is can't get them off till I get rid of the mirrors, Trouble is I cant get the damn allen bolts out anybody got a suggestion
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.....
Quote Me Happy



Joined: 15 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 17:24 - 07 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why can't you get them out? Are they rounded?
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zimmerframeki...
L Plate Warrior



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PostPosted: 17:41 - 07 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope not rounded i have already destoyed to allen keys on em. All i wanted to do was remove the damn fairings to put a new exhaust on and every bolt and screw is knackered.
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zimmerframeki...
L Plate Warrior



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PostPosted: 17:41 - 07 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope not rounded i have already destoyed to allen keys on em. All i wanted to do was remove the damn fairings to put a new exhaust on and every bolt and screw is knackered.
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Clutchy
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PostPosted: 18:44 - 07 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

What bike?
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zimmerframeki...
L Plate Warrior



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PostPosted: 18:50 - 07 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

OOpps did i forget to say, so pissed off with with it forgot to say. Suzuki gsx750f 1999
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 18:54 - 07 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Best of luck with the exhaust.
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zimmerframeki...
L Plate Warrior



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PostPosted: 19:31 - 07 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks think i'm gonna need it if the rest the bike is anything to go by
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.....
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PostPosted: 19:38 - 07 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

You really need to describe the problem in more detail, with specifics if you want help. Can you put up some pictures?
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G
The Voice of Reason



Joined: 02 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 07 Sep 2013    Post subject: Re: Removal of allen bolts from mirrors Reply with quote

Is there a nut on the other side?

What have you tried to loosen them?
(Ie penetrating fluid, tighten a little first, heat/cold, etc?)
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zimmerframeki...
L Plate Warrior



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PostPosted: 20:04 - 07 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are no nuts on the other side. I've tried penetrating oil, they are just two allen bolts and they just wont budge, cant take it to garage as i spent what little money i had on getting the new exhaust. I've now destroyed 3 allen keys and the bolts are still untouched
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BTTD
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Joined: 22 Nov 2012
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PostPosted: 20:06 - 07 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

"Plus Gas" is reckoned to be a great penetrating oil.
Having said that, I use a can of the cheap stuff from Toolstation.

Oh, just seen your next post (too slow this evening).
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G
The Voice of Reason



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PostPosted: 20:08 - 07 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is on the otherside exactly? Also, are your allen keys made of a brie-like substance?

I've not known decent allen keys to suffer like that.
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 20:36 - 07 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

It would probably be best if you stopped for now. You really should consider purchasing some decent quality tools before you continue or you will simply cause more damage to your machine.
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BTTD
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PostPosted: 20:45 - 07 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/pro51-6-pce-38in-drive-hex-bit-set

I've not managed to destroy these, despite some good attempts. I have destroyed some sht alluminium cap headbolts that decided to fur/weld themsleves into their fixings.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 22:42 - 07 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

jnw010 wrote:
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/pro51-6-pce-38in-drive-hex-bit-set

I've not managed to destroy these, despite some good attempts. I have destroyed some sht alluminium cap headbolts that decided to fur/weld themsleves into their fixings.


I have similar, you can use a regular socket drive which gives great leverage compared to the piddly L shaped things.
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DJS
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PostPosted: 07:27 - 08 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you've got the right advice above. PlusGas is undoubtedly the best penetrating/release product on the market. It may take several days of re-applications though. That, combined with a decent hex socket set rather than basic allen keys should do the job in my experience.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 08:11 - 08 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a good example of buy cheap, buy 3 times. Are you getting your keys at Poundland?

Are the heads flush or standing proud? Can you get a set of grips on them?

If you drilled the heads off, could you disassemble and get grips (or a pipe wrench) on to the studs?
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 08:21 - 08 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Raffles wrote:
It would probably be best if you stopped for now. You really should consider purchasing some decent quality tools before you continue or you will simply cause more damage to your machine.


This.

Crap tools just make mechanical jobs harder, especially when it ends up causing things to round off.
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 08:51 - 08 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you can get to Maidstone you can use my tools to remove them, I've not had any issues with my current tools, they have undone everything Shocked
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 09:37 - 08 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

In 40 years of spannering I have never chewed up an allen key, bent a few but never chewed one up. Buy quality buy once.
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zimmerframeki...
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 07 Sep 2013
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PostPosted: 14:45 - 08 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the advice guys but at last they have decided to release their grip an come off I guess drowning them in WD40 did the trick. Now just the oil cooler and the header pipes to go and the new exhaust system will be on.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 15:56 - 08 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

zimmerframekid wrote:
Thanks for all the advice guys but at last they have decided to release their grip an come off I guess drowning them in WD40 did the trick. Now just the oil cooler and the header pipes to go and the new exhaust system will be on.


I advise preparing the exhaust headers in advance and with something more suited to the job than WD40.

I've removed the downpipes on 2 bikes now. Had 1 exhaust stud snap on each bike. Dammit! Doh!
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 19:07 - 08 Sep 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try tightening the bolts a little, it applies a force opposite to that of the direction the bolt is trying to move and breaks the seal that has developed due to corrosion.
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