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chain oil for seaside town

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Sparkss
Nova Slayer



Joined: 20 Jun 2013
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PostPosted: 12:09 - 16 Oct 2013    Post subject: chain oil for seaside town Reply with quote

living about 150 ft from the sea my last chain whet orange but I only used engine oil. (ACF 50 has protected the rest of the bike brilliantly Thumbs Up )

I've just fitted new sprockets and a chain and I was wondering f anybody could recommend me something decent.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 12:15 - 16 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

EP90 gear oil. Cheap, recommended by chain and bike manufacturers alike, thick enough not to fling if its applied correctly. Thumbs Up
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Mark65
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PostPosted: 07:27 - 17 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

As above ^
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 07:47 - 17 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

smells like cat piss though....

ahh memories of doing my SJ413 diff oil change an getting smelly cat piss oil sludge down my sleeves oh the memories
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 10:06 - 17 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

mudcow007 wrote:
smells like cat piss though....

ahh memories of doing my SJ413 diff oil change an getting smelly cat piss oil sludge down my sleeves oh the memories



Smells ok when it is fresh Thumbs Up .
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Entertwainer
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 13 May 2013
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PostPosted: 11:24 - 17 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

unless you have a full chain guard, i'd make it a regular maintenance job to clean and relube the chain, thats the only way you're going to stop it from getting a nice shade of Towie orange Smile

the salt in the air will get to it no matter what oil you use.
i should know, i live in Brighton. my bicycle chains dont last long - even with the amount of anal cleanliness i subject my bikes too.
my CG is ok for the most part as it has one of those sexy fully enclosed chain guards.

its just one of those things for living so close to the coast.

i would think though, that a wax type chain lube would be better - the spray i got with my DID chain and sprocket set goes a milky waxy white colour once its set. that seems to provide a good moisture shield.....
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tahrey
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PostPosted: 11:56 - 18 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a mix of leftover 75/80 and 80/90 gear oil on mine, it's still a little thinner than I'd ultimately like (especially in summer) but it seems to last OK. And it seems to resist saltwater quite nicely, I've ridden in salty slushy snow a few times and whilst it attacked various other exposed parts of the bike, the chain (and bits of the rear rim which got spattered by the oil over time) has now come off the bike for routine replacement without hardly any sign of rust at all... in fact the replacement looks worse, having sat in a supposedly-but-actually-not-very well sealed factory bag in a damp garage for a few months!

And it has that nice Moly Sulphide smell, mmmmmm Sick

However, the wax-lube idea also sounds quite good considering your location, and it did used to be a fairly standard concept for bike chains anyway. Put the wax in a pot, warm it up until it just goes fluid, take it off the heat, drop in the chain, schwirly whirly until it starts to solidify again, and pull it out. Should be fairly impervious to anything the environment throws at it so long as you can be bothered with the whole "clean, remove, wax, refit" rigmarole. Obvs this is only practical if you have a springclip fitting, or a decent chain breaker and a ready supply of rivet clips.

Though they probably make spray-on wax now for all I know. I'd just be skeptical of it permeating into all the places it needs to go if it's put on whilst cold. Might want to go half gear oil, half wax if so.

Or just get a Scottoiler.
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gavcarter
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Joined: 28 Mar 2009
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PostPosted: 15:28 - 18 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

chainsaw oil used to be a good recommendation, not sure how it is with salt though.

Just bear in mind the the tackier the solution is the more grit and crap will "cling" to it so your chain and sprockets need more frequent cleaning - or replacing more often if you cant be bothered as they will wear down quicker.

Thick oily greasy waxy substances impregnated with lots of tiny bits of metal from sprockets chains, grains of sand, road crap and what ever else your wheels kick up off the road essentially form into "grinding paste" which accelerates the wear of the chain and sprockets.

On the other hand so does leaving it to go rusty....

I would prefer the extra cleaning but if you cake it in "dirt collecting" agents and DONT clean it regularly I wouldnt be surprised if it didnt last much longer than when you just leave it
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Sparkss
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Joined: 20 Jun 2013
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PostPosted: 17:56 - 20 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank's for the suggestions. I've gone for the EP90, it hasn't arrived yet and already I'm seeing orange Sad

Admittedly I didn't clean my old chain. I've been using a mini wire brush to get crud off in the past, if you've found any effective methods please share Smile
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Islander
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PostPosted: 19:37 - 20 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paraffin or diesel and a washing up brush or something similar. Use a piece of card or an offcut of thin ply or similar to protect the wheel and tyre from cleaner flicking off of the brush. Thumbs Up
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