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O-rings popped out, new chain?

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goto10
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PostPosted: 14:49 - 08 Oct 2013    Post subject: O-rings popped out, new chain? Reply with quote

As per title - I just cleaned my chain and noticed that a couple of O-rings have jumped out - does this mean the chain is soon to be scrap metal and needs to be changed soon?

Linked to the photo as well as embedded-

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/71877235/chain.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/71877235/chain.jpg
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doggone
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PostPosted: 15:19 - 08 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't set off on a tour of Europe, but if you keep it well lubed it might go for a while yet.
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jimspeed
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 08 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been cleaning it with petrol? it looks like a solvent of some kind has softened the O rings and made em expand.
It will probly go a bit longer but its getting rainy season now so once the wet gets in there it will quickly wear out.
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Mark65
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PostPosted: 07:40 - 09 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lube with 90w gear oil, get loads out of it yet. Thumbs Up
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Islander
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PostPosted: 08:20 - 09 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you clean your chain, just use paraffin or diesel neither of these will damage O rings. The chain is perfectly usable but make sure you keep it well lubricated and clean and inspect it regularly. Thumbs Up
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 09:20 - 09 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The chain looks clean and pretty much new, any reason this wouldn't be covered under the chain's warranty?
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Islander
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PostPosted: 09:59 - 09 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

DrDonnyBrago wrote:
The chain looks clean and pretty much new, any reason this wouldn't be covered under the chain's warranty?


If it was damaged by the use of incorrect cleaning solvents... Whistle
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Minty
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PostPosted: 11:38 - 09 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

What make is it, out of interest and how many miles'ish?
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P.
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PostPosted: 12:07 - 09 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

DID by the markings.
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Minty
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PostPosted: 13:17 - 09 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never had a problem with any of my DID's. Then again, outside of fresh from the box, none of my DID's have ever been that clean.

What does the OP clean with? Thinking
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goto10
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PostPosted: 13:50 - 09 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is indeed a DID chain, I replaced it about 8k miles ago - I've never cleaned it using solvents before, I have a PDoiler running a decent amount of lube and I manually oil it with a rag once every month or so - this time I bought a new brush and cleaner to give it a really good going over - (Wurth Chain cleaner ( https://www.wurth.co.uk/product/brakechaincleaner ) - it's pretty aggressive stuff and brought the chain and sprocket up to looking like new - I also used a Tirox 360 chain brush (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tirox-360-Motorcycle-Chain-Brush/dp/B00527IR7O) ) - although I noticed the Orings were out before I started cleaning, so they weren't to blame.
Ah well, I'll keep it well oiled and hopefully make it to the next service (5k ish) and get it changed then.
It's a shame because so far I haven't needed to adjust it whatsoever, so aside from the Orings it would've had a lot of life left in it.
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nighthawk250
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PostPosted: 17:25 - 09 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Please visit the NC forum site, where this is a known problem, a lot of chains (RK) were replaced on a recall, but the DID chains they used were still causing problems.
My own NC700X DID chain was getting stiff links, I have now sold that bike.


Last edited by nighthawk250 on 22:10 - 09 Oct 2013; edited 1 time in total
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goto10
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PostPosted: 21:51 - 09 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

nighthawk250 wrote:
Please visit the NC forum site, where this is a known problem, a lot of chains (EK) were replaced on a recall, but the DID chains they used were still causing problems.
My own NC700X DID chain was getting stiff links, I have now sold that bike.


Funnily enough I had to replace the original DID chain because of stiff links - it was causing the chain to stretch and I ran out of adjustment in the end. I replaced it with a non-OEM chain (it's still a DID but it was meant to be a beefier chain) so it shouldn't be an NC700 specific issue on this one.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 21:53 - 09 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Send the pictures to DID, they are a reputable company you never know your luck!
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goto10
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PostPosted: 13:29 - 10 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
Send the pictures to DID, they are a reputable company you never know your luck!


I've just done that, along with the short history of the chain.
I suspect I'll get the 'sorry to hear that....but we're not doing anything' type of nicey nicey Email. As you say, it's worth a shot though.
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nighthawk250
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PostPosted: 17:58 - 10 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Japan may have a grease shortage, they use very little of it on new bikes.
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goto10
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PostPosted: 10:34 - 15 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had a reply - so the chain (or lube/cleaning) wasn't to blame...

Quote:

Reference your enquiry to DID in Japan

We do not know if the chain was fitted by yourself or by a dealer but we are able to advise what has caused this problem

The chain is running out of alignment between the rear wheel and the engine sprocket - this will cause the inner side plates to push against the rear sprocket on one side and jam up against the outer side plates When this happens the inner plates will crush the sealing rings and will no longer pivot causing the relevant links to become stiff

This can be observed in three ways - there will no longer be a clearance gap between the inner and outer side plates , the rear sprocket will show more wear on the flat surface of one side and the squashed sealing rings will only be on one side of the chain ( https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/71877235/chain.jpg

We hope we have been of help to you

Regards

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nighthawk250
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 26 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can understand that reply from DID, how do you know when the wheel is in line, you can't trust the graduations on the swing arm or counting the threads on the adjusters. Using a straight edge between the wheels is hit and miss and so is the string method.
Thankfully I solved my problem, sold the NC700S and brought a shaft drive bike.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 20:28 - 26 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can check rear wheel alignment by measuring the distance between the centre of the swing arm pivot and the centre of the rear wheel spindle on each side of the bike. If the wheel is aligned correctly they should be equal.
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totalllama82
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PostPosted: 22:14 - 26 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:
You can check rear wheel alignment by measuring the distance between the centre of the swing arm pivot and the centre of the rear wheel spindle on each side of the bike. If the wheel is aligned correctly they should be equal.


+1 this. It's how I do my adjustment.
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YBR Ric
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PostPosted: 09:23 - 27 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two straight edges placed either side of two identically sized tyreless cast rims Smile

When you can't fit a piece of paper between any of the eight contact points WITH the rear wheel spindle correctly torqued, job done.




PS
Shaft drive alignment is only as good as the person fitting the shims.
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nighthawk250
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PostPosted: 19:37 - 21 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the measuring tip between spindles, however a bit late for me and the NC, I brought a shaft drive bike, luxury.
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