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advice on home spraying...

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scooke
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 03 Mar 2010
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PostPosted: 18:16 - 19 Nov 2013    Post subject: advice on home spraying... Reply with quote

hi guys as the winters coming upon us i thought it would be a good time to get the aesthetics sorted on the bike ( going to be garaged ) but i really would like some help on prep and spraying techniques. my plan is to do the:

- front lower fork legs
- radiator
- top yoke
- both handle bars
- rear wheel
- brake callipers
- and maybe parts of the frame that need to be treated and sealed.

so what sort of paints would be appropriate???
any help would be greatly received...
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CG Sam
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PostPosted: 19:58 - 19 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you intending on using rattle cans or a paint gun powered by a compressor?
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scooke
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PostPosted: 20:42 - 19 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hay fella umm my friend has a small compressor and spray gun but ive never used one before. Used spray cans but i dont know what sort of budget i have at the moment as i want to get idea on differences in makes of primer, top coats and lacker ( for best results ) Many thanks
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:51 - 19 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Didn't read the question properly...
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scooke
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PostPosted: 21:03 - 19 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, im comfortable and was intending to use cans but if its simple enough and the right price ill ask to use my friends compressor...
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CG Sam
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PostPosted: 21:14 - 19 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the chihuahua wrote:
Didn't read the question properly...


I did, but I didn't want to make assumptions, I find some things that are good in a spray can aren't as good bought in a tin and used with another spray gun and vice versa.


I always like to try different brands each time, nothing has really stood out to me as great so far.

If using a spray gun the one thing I'd say is get it to as fine a mist as possible, and the more coats you put on the deeper the final colour and shine. Always use a lacquer, it not only aids the shine but protects the paint from scratching and the metal underneath rusting.
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scooke
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PostPosted: 21:25 - 19 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok thank you any advice on the preparation side of things i guess smoother the surface before spraying the better the finish. But what to so between layers. Many thanks
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CG Sam
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PostPosted: 21:32 - 19 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remove any decals etc if there are any, clean it trying to get the worst of any of the adhesive residue left off, then set to it with some light grade sandpaper, nothing too rough. Keep it smooth as possible and dust and grit free.
Try and do the spraying in a dust free environment that's clean. Don't try to rush the drying of coats as it can end up uneven and even potentially bubbling. If you can a couple of small heaters on a low heat (one each side) will help speed the drying process up without rushing it and it staying even. I wouldn't spray with them on though!!
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misscrabstick
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PostPosted: 21:41 - 19 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rattle cans are pretty much useless for anything that will be exposed to petrol or solvents or wear, lots of cheap 2k paints on ebay for use with a gun and compressor, yes more hassle with mixing and gun cleaning etc, but... a decent durable finish, apply plenty of paint over multiple coats, you then have something to cut back for a super finish. Bike parts generally are not that big so even a little compressor will do if you don't ask too much of it ( keeping reservoir charged), make sure you get and use a decent mask ( ideally air fed) when spraying 2k paint.
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



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PostPosted: 21:45 - 19 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

CG Sam wrote:
Nobby the chihuahua wrote:
Didn't read the question properly...


I did, but I didn't want to make assumptions,


Not you. I didn't read the question properly. No delete button...
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CG Sam
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PostPosted: 21:47 - 19 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the chihuahua wrote:


Not you. I didn't read the question properly. No delete button...


Oh, sorry for being a bit short with you mate
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scooke
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PostPosted: 02:04 - 20 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hay it all good were all here for the same reason, and thanks both of you for the advise youve given, ohh another question very nieve i no but apart from polishing alininium how do ypu get it to look like chrome? ( i probably will get some grief for this post )
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lihp
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PostPosted: 02:31 - 20 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Small compressor will be absolutely useless for spraying, you will get a couple of seconds out of it before you run out of pressure and have to wait on it refilling again.
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misscrabstick
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PostPosted: 02:35 - 20 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

PhilDawson8270 wrote:
Small compressor will be absolutely useless for spraying, you will get a couple of seconds out of it before you run out of pressure and have to wait on it refilling again.


I have a 50 litre tank compressor from machinemart, it will go a fair bit more than a couple of seconds, true I would not want to spray say a car wing with it , but for small bike parts it sprays just fine.
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lihp
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PostPosted: 02:59 - 20 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

For stuff that small, rattle cans with a proper spray pattern is worth exploring, especially those supplied by proper auto-paint stores that can provide 2k rattle cans.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 09:01 - 20 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two problems with spraying this time of year, it's wet and cold. The moisture in the air can cause fish eyes and the cold with cause runs, splatter or poor paint adhesion. If I really have to spray at home then I will warm the part up in the house, with a heater or with a heat gun. Not too hot, 20-30 degrees is plenty.

It's worth keeping the paint indoors just to keep it warm.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 09:07 - 20 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spanner wrote:
I've done small areas with spray cans, but to go the compressor route is going to make a right mess unless you can make a booth for it?


I use a airbrush or small touch up gun attached to a compressor for bike parts. No more mess than a rattle can. I have a car port that I hang tarpaulins up in to create a spray area. A water trap is useful to remove condensation.
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BTTD
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PostPosted: 09:15 - 20 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ichy wrote:
Two problems with spraying this time of year, it's wet and cold. The moisture in the air can cause fish eyes and the cold with cause runs, splatter or poor paint adhesion. If I really have to spray at home then I will warm the part up in the house, with a heater or with a heat gun. Not too hot, 20-30 degrees is plenty.

It's worth keeping the paint indoors just to keep it warm.


I was going to say that.
I've not got much experience of spraying, but have got a hvlp kit and have used it with some success. Biggest problem I have is sorting somewhere warm and dry to use it in the winter.
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jjdugen
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PostPosted: 09:29 - 20 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do quite a bit of renovating on the old nails I pick up. I've tried rattle cans, cellulose spray from a gun and 2-pack.
Celly in a spray gun is the easiest to work with, but you have to get to the paint supplier and then he has to match colour, buy thinners, get the compressor emptied of water etc. If its a small area like fork legs, its quicker just to rattle can them and cover with lacquer.
Tanks and panels that are 'on show' do need lots of preparation as noted.
'Self leveling' 2-Pack is the most durable on tanks that get attacked by petrol spillage and clothing rubs, but it is nasty stuff, please read the warnings before you use it.
One little tip I can pass on. You can get a glass like finish with a rattle can of colour and lacquer. Get your colour on as evenly as possible then go over it with fine wet n dry. Get a really good coating of lacquer all over. Rattle can stuff WILL be uneven unless you are extremely lucky. Cut this back to get rid of ALL the imperfections, you are looking for an entirely even matt finish.
Let it sit for at least a day in a nice warm room.
Then (and this does take practice) use your hot air gun to 'melt' the surface. Once the lacquer melts move on immediately or you will burn the paint. It comes up to a high gloss finish that is very hard. The longer it is left the more resistant it gets.
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 22:33 - 21 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ichy wrote:
Two problems with spraying this time of year, it's wet and cold. The moisture in the air can cause fish eyes and the cold with cause runs, splatter or poor paint adhesion.

Fish eyes are caused by oil or silicon contamination etc. Cold weather & moisture causes bloom. Runs are caused by applying too much paint in 1 or 2 passes, splatter is caused by incorrect gun settings.
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 23:16 - 21 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apply several colour coats then rub down, and then apply lacquer you say?
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 23:40 - 21 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:
Ichy wrote:
Two problems with spraying this time of year, it's wet and cold. The moisture in the air can cause fish eyes and the cold with cause runs, splatter or poor paint adhesion.

Fish eyes are caused by oil or silicon contamination etc. Cold weather & moisture causes bloom. Runs are caused by applying too much paint in 1 or 2 passes, splatter is caused by incorrect gun settings.


I was hoping you were dead. Ah well, give it time. Thanks for the always helpful advice.
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ninja_butler
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PostPosted: 06:12 - 22 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't attempt it during the Winter at all unless you have a super-dry indoor area to work in - and then you'd need ventilation too. Even on a dry Winter's day there is too much moisture in the air to make spray painting viable.
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 18:19 - 25 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi,
see this Wink
https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=3756855#3756855

cheers,
GAZ
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