Can I use a drill to....

[CaNsA]

break my old chain?

Decent drill, decent drill bits.

[nowhere.elysium]

Yes, but wouldn't a hacksaw be easier?
The best way of drilling a rivet out (off the top of my head) would be to use a punch to make a locating mark, so the drill bit has got somewhere to sit, instead of skating around.
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[Tungtvann]

You mean you've asked for help before trying to tackle something with a power tool? I bet you read the drill instructions before use too!

[el_oso]

if you have a decent drill why not get an angle grinder cutting tool? Certainly going to be much easier than used a drill bit
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[stinkwheel]

It'd be a sod.

In the absence of a chain breaker tool, I'd just push a couple of pins through using a big set of mole grips with an M6 nut over one ond of the pin or, as said, hacksaw it.

How you fitting the new one if you don't have a chain tool? You going to use the fail-link?
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[_Iain_]

A lot of big bike chains come with both clip & rivet links. The idea being you can fit the clip link at home, then ride to a bike shop & they'll rivet it up for a drink.

Would definately go buy a hacksaw though...the bigger ones will munch a 520 chain in under a minuite even with a naff blade...and a fiver for a pair of em is peanuts

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht131-2-pce-hacksaw-set?da=1&TC=SRC-hacksaw

Could theoreticly be done with a drill if you ran it through the sideplates with like an 8mm bit then hit it with a hammer or something but would be ballache and fuck up the drill bits.
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[Copycat73]

I have used one of these in the past... it takes a little time but works...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/171045068448?limghlpsr=true&lpid=102&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=102

grind off rivet heads...
once flush with the side plated leaver off wit small screwdriver.
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[Vincent]

A drill could be a pain....you can get used angle grinders for next to nowt on eBay and they can come in useful for all sorts. Have a look and see if there's one local. Or, you could get an attachment for a wheel cutter for the drill.
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[G]

Cut a drill off so it's an appropriate sized punch, then hit the other side really hard?

Surely you would just use your angle grinder?

If you've leant them out and the like, you could consider one of the grinding discs you can get for drills.

Or just a saw.

[Ichy]

Most rivet links are soft and can be ground off pretty easily. I generally use a dremel or similar. If you want to use the drill then I have some die grinder stones that you can try?

https://i.ebayimg.com/t/5-Piece-1-4-Inch-Shank-Mounted-Stone-Grinding-Polish-Set-Die-Grinder-or-Drill-/00/s/NTYzWDc1MA==/$(KGrHqRHJFMFDVT5sSN8BQ-Dphynvg~~60_35.JPG


B&Q etc do an angle grinder for less than £15 and Aldi currently have an electric file that is reduced to £15 by me.

https://www.aldi.co.uk/fileadmin/fm-dam/products/product_photos/Specialbuys_2013/W43/Thursday/W4313_PD_Thursday_22.jpg
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[G]

[Ichy]

It's possible but will take time. I have used an air powered version at work to grind out spot welds or to shape welds used as filler on damaged panels. I'd still prefer to use a die grinder for the tube.
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[G]

Ta.
That was my original plan, but will have to get/dig out an extension.

[CaNsA]

I havent read much after N.E's post.

Anyways, i used an old flat blade screwy and a hammer to prise the link plate over one of the softlink rivets, then used the chain tool to push the rivet out.

New sprockets are on, which is cool, but the chain is being a complete ballache.

The chain tool just isnt doing its thing that it needs to do to the rivet.

I'm thinking that if i file the lip of the punch to an angle it should spread the rivet head right?

https://i.imgur.com/mC892BB.png

[G]

Is it a flat rivet designed to be peened rather than a hollow one?

If so, no. I've bent the thick shaft of such a tool* trying to rivet a solid one.

*Oo, err misus an' that.

[CaNsA]

the first few mm are hollow.

I tried the smaller punch first just to start it off, but that bent then snapped :/

[G]

That's the right type of chain tool, then.
I've never had an issue with the, used on the correct links, so couldn't comment.

[Skudd]

Angle grind off, mole grip the two new together with a punch to spread the soft link. Have a hammer behind the soft link so you have something to hit against.
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[sprintster]

There's no reason a chain tool won't work if it's used properly.The different sized punches are for different sized chains.The punch will only have broke because it was too small for the chain.Use the larger punch and it should be fine.

[CaNsA]

[stinkwheel]

I think you've got your chain tool 180 degrees out.

Unless I've been doing them wrong for a long time, you wind the pin back in. The bit to the left of your picture goes behind the fixed part of the split link. You screw the course thread down so it sits over the hollow end of the pin then screw the fine thread down so the pin makes contact with the hollow. Now get a spanner on the fine thread and give it another turn or two and it should roll out the ends of the split link.

You can see it here in this picture I googled, you can see the marks where the outer part of the chain tool was screwed down against the sideplate too.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Clutchy]

Mole grips with a m6 nut


then


Hammer/hard thing behind chain, centre punch and small hammer, finish the job so the rivet is mushroomed.



Ain't no-body got time to buy a chain riveter.
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[CaNsA]

[Raffles]

[MarJay]

Has the link got a hole in the end or is it solid? I've never managed to get a solid link to work properly, only the hollow 'soft' ended DID style ones.
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