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superstacker
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PostPosted: 23:52 - 02 Dec 2013    Post subject: Newbie road bike Reply with quote

Well after a month of trying to commute 13 miles each way (a few days a week) on a mountain bike, I bit the bullet last Friday and bought myself one of these:
https://www.all-about-the-bike.co.uk/ekmps/shops/mrsquealypig/images/dawes-giro-300-2013-road-bike-fully-assembled-6040-p.jpg


The difference in speed is phenomenal, although I did make a mistake of going into a corner at mountain bike speeds on a greasy possibly diesel spilled road surface and put a scratch on it!

Now Im a lot more careful on bends until I get used to it.

Also had to go out for the first time and buy all my spare innertubes, frame pump etc..just hoping that the money I'm saving pays off eventually
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Minty
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PostPosted: 16:37 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

A scratch?

After nearly 4 years of riding mine a few days a week, well, lets just say there is a scratch or 2. Laughing

Get yourself some Gatorskin/Armadillo tyres. Thumbs Up
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UnknownStuntm...
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PostPosted: 18:29 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

My cornering technique for iffy surfaces is unclip my inside foot, stand up with a bent knee of the clipped in foot, lean forward keeping the front of the bike upright and be prepared for the back to step out.

There's a tight 90 degree bend on one of my rides everyone calls cowshit corner, I can repeatedly drift it like a boss. Makes me feel damn great ... until I clean the bike...
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superstacker
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PostPosted: 21:49 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

New tyres might well be on the cards after that cornering incident, also got my first puncture yesterday.

Thank god for quick release wheels Wink
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D O G
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PostPosted: 23:08 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

superstacker wrote:
got my first puncture yesterday.


As Minty says - get some Gatorskins, but get the HARDSHELLs, they are the best I've found for puncture resistance. Make sure you buy the folding ones, not with the rigid bead. They may appear at first to be a bit of a headfuck to fit, but getting the rigids over the rim can be a total bastard.

And make sure the pressures are up to a decent level - around 100 psi, or more if you weigh a bit. I weigh 85kgs and have them at 120 in the Summer, bit less at the moment for additional grip.
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JonB
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PostPosted: 23:28 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

D O G wrote:
superstacker wrote:
got my first puncture yesterday.


As Minty says - get some Gatorskins, but get the HARDSHELLs, they are the best I've found for puncture resistance. Make sure you buy the folding ones, not with the rigid bead. They may appear at first to be a bit of a headfuck to fit, but getting the rigids over the rim can be a total bastard.

And make sure the pressures are up to a decent level - around 100 psi, or more if you weigh a bit. I weigh 85kgs and have them at 120 in the Summer, bit less at the moment for additional grip.

I'm going to go against the grain here.

There is currently a trend against Gatorskins. Lots of people are finding their wet grip to be absolutely abysmal. Myself included, I had the front lose control back in March, luckily I managed to keep it upright, but also I used to get a lot of wheelspin when climbing.

If you want puncture resistance, but still good rolling properties then I would advise you to look at Schwalbe Durano Plus. They are dual compound with soft on the sides for cornering and hard in the centre for longer wear.

But you cannot beat making sure your tyres are pumped up properly to prevent punctures. Drop 10 psi on the front for more comfort if desired.
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JonB
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PostPosted: 23:29 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

BTW I'm disappointed this wasn't a bike recommendation thread, i'm still sulking about my missed wiggle referee bonus for a bargain on there at the moment...
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haroman666
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PostPosted: 23:40 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I find those Dawes quite heavy.
But it's gonna be good for the job you need it for!

When the wheels inevitably go out of true beyond repair; invest in some decent lightweight wheels. As that is where a lot of the weight is on these.

Can't really comment on tyres as I don't ride road bikes often enough to base judgement. My stepdad's Trek has some Dual compound michelins but they're nearly 10 years old so have probably been superseded by something more up-to-date.
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D O G
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PostPosted: 23:44 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

JonB wrote:
I'm going to go against the grain here.

There is currently a trend against Gatorskins. Lots of people are finding their wet grip to be absolutely abysmal. Myself included, I had the front lose control back in March, luckily I managed to keep it upright, but also I used to get a lot of wheelspin when climbing.

If you want puncture resistance, but still good rolling properties then I would advise you to look at Schwalbe Durano Plus. They are dual compound with soft on the sides for cornering and hard in the centre for longer wear.

But you cannot beat making sure your tyres are pumped up properly to prevent punctures. Drop 10 psi on the front for more comfort if desired.


Hmmm. I am getting wheelspin when climbing, but only if I get out of the saddle, which I can live with. Having said that, I did have a slide at the weekend, but that is the first I've experienced since the weather has been shit. The surface was shit, however.

My rear is getting rather square, has a few cuts, and is coming up for replacement soon, perhaps I will try these...keep an open mind and all that. Have you tried them? Dudes in your club?

They will need to be shit hot to make me prefer them over the Contis.
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JonB
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PostPosted: 23:53 - 03 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

D O G wrote:

Hmmm. I am getting wheelspin when climbing, but only if I get out of the saddle, which I can live with. Having said that, I did have a slide at the weekend, but that is the first I've experienced since the weather has been shit. The surface was shit, however.

My rear is getting rather square, has a few cuts, and is coming up for replacement soon, perhaps I will try these...keep an open mind and all that. Have you tried them? Dudes in your club?

They will need to be shit hot to make me prefer them over the Contis.

Gatorskins are the default option at most club rides. But the tide is turning, my father-in-law has moved to Durano Plus tyres.

As I now have the luxury of two bikes, my winter one has gone up to 25mm tyres, but the Durano Plus tyres are just incredible, I feel so planted in the wet. Thumbs Up

They aren't cheap though, they are usually around £30/tyre. But like car and motorbike tyres, you get what you pay for...
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D O G
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PostPosted: 00:02 - 04 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting. Similar price as the Contis anyway.

I will consider them.
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ithyphallic
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PostPosted: 00:42 - 04 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I concur...Gatorskins are pretty damn slippy, that being said I don't do a lot of riding in the wet/winter on the roads. I move back to mountain biking in winter.
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lihp
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PostPosted: 11:42 - 04 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally have no issues with slick tyres on wet roads here.

The tyres are that narrow that running a decent pressure will prevent aquaplaning as they will simply push the water away.
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handbasket
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PostPosted: 12:32 - 04 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use Continental Grand Prix 4 seasons. Can’t remember the last time I had any grip issues.
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D O G
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PostPosted: 12:38 - 04 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

But what about punctures?

Even if the Hardshells might be slippier (maybe, dunno), they are awesome at resisting punctures. The little bits of flint which abound down here on the lanes of the South Downs are very adept at slicing reet through tyres.

From recent use Hardshells>Normal Gatorskins>Armadillos.

If the Schwalbe's can equal the Hardshells' resistance and provde better grip, I would make a permanent change. If they can't, it'll be an experiment.
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handbasket
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PostPosted: 14:30 - 04 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

D O G wrote:
But what about punctures?

Even if the Hardshells might be slippier (maybe, dunno), they are awesome at resisting punctures. The little bits of flint which abound down here on the lanes of the South Downs are very adept at slicing reet through tyres.

From recent use Hardshells>Normal Gatorskins>Armadillos.

If the Schwalbe's can equal the Hardshells' resistance and provde better grip, I would make a permanent change. If they can't, it'll be an experiment.


I have had, I think, about 3 punctures this year on 4 Seasons in approaching 6,000 miles.

One was a flint in Cambridgeshire on London-Edinburgh-London. Another was on the same event, in Scotland, when I hit a stone and I think it was caused by using a CO2 cartridge and forgetting to put air in (it was about 2 days later, and CO2 leaches through rubber). The third was early last month, when I hit a stone in the dark at about 20mph and got a snake bite. I returned that way a day or two later in daylight and discovered a large pothole with a large number of 1-2" stones scattered across the road where they’d come out from the hole.

The Durano Plus should have better puncture resistance. They have a band of rubber which is supposed to protect the centre of the tyre. However, it’s at a cost, which is increased rolling resistance. My other half uses them and does seem to have fewer punctures.

If you ride in an area with lots of flints, then you will probably benefit from the Durano Plus.
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JonB
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PostPosted: 15:28 - 04 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have had one puncture in 2,000 miles on my current pair of Durano Plus. To be fair a stick got wedged between my mudguard and tyre, of which a large thorn penetrated both the rubber and Kevlar belt which is unsurprising.

Yeah, the tyres are a bit heavier than Gatorskins, but you just get fitter to compensate. Razz

handbasket, I see you rode LEL, do you usually ride audax events or was this a one off?
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handbasket
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PostPosted: 16:04 - 04 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

LEL wasn’t a one-off, no. I’m 2xPBP and 2xLEL, once each on gears and once on fixed. Still a relative newcomer, really! Currently deciding whether to do the Mille Cymru again next year, and if so, whether to attempt it on fixed.
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JonB
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PostPosted: 16:55 - 04 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chapeau.

Longest I've done is a 300km event earlier this year. Tend to just do 200km rides mainly though.

There is a glut of 1000km+ rides next year all over the UK.
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D O G
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PostPosted: 18:04 - 04 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

JonB wrote:
Tend to just do 200km rides mainly though.


I am currently trying to get my arse fit enough to do my first 200k Audax in (hopefully) April. I reckon I could do it now, but not without popping at some point and crawling at the end. This one:

Dorset Coast
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JonB
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PostPosted: 18:21 - 04 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

D O G wrote:
JonB wrote:
Tend to just do 200km rides mainly though.


I am currently trying to get my arse fit enough to do my first 200k Audax in (hopefully) April. I reckon I could do it now, but not without popping at some point and crawling at the end. This one:

Dorset Coast

That's some first 200km!!! My first one was much flatter than that. However, it is an awesome ride and one I would like to do, however my first born is due around then so probably not this year...
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handbasket
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PostPosted: 19:15 - 04 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

D O G wrote:
JonB wrote:
Tend to just do 200km rides mainly though.


I am currently trying to get my arse fit enough to do my first 200k Audax in (hopefully) April. I reckon I could do it now, but not without popping at some point and crawling at the end. This one:

Dorset Coast


I would like to do that one now I’ve moved to Somerset but it clashes with the Yr Elenydd 300k which is the day before. Choices.

I rode a DIY 200k down to the Dorset coast, back in April, which had about 2200m climbing but it was almost all concentrated in the middle 100km so that part was tough. I was riding fixed, and I injured my forearm tendons from all the pulling on the bars. Think it took about 9-9.5 hours. I had to ride my LEL warm-up events on gears while that improved.

The main things with riding long distance are pacing, comfort, and feeding. Someone who rides too hard early on and doesn’t eat enough will suffer. I’ve been in a real mess after 100km when I’ve overdone it, typically caused by trying to stay with faster riders, and not eaten enough.

A 200km with 2850m climbing isn’t exactly flat, but as long as you get the miles in, and pace yourself on the day, you should be fine. And you do get 13h20 to get round.
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D O G
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PostPosted: 21:03 - 04 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well you both have certainly made sure I maintain my non relaxed attitude about it!!

I'll be pacing myself for sure - fairly certain I'll be riding solo so won't have to compromise. I've done a fair few 100milers, and will be doing 110miles in a day in Feb as a sort of warm up (though that is a much flatter route), pretty confident I'll be OK.

If I get round in under 9 hours riding time I'll be content. I'll be happy if I do it in under 8. We shall see.

handbasket wrote:
I was riding fixed


Lunacy. Razz
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lihp
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 04 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

D O G wrote:
will be doing 110miles in a day in Feb as a sort of warm up


And I am concerned about doing my first mass ride next June for 60 miles Laughing
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MinhDinh
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PostPosted: 22:03 - 20 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

How are you finding the bike? I have a giro 400 and find that my knees get wrecked. I have adjusted the seat etc... But no joy. A cheap Tenman hybrid seemed to be better!
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