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Starting problems - 07 CBR125

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Mikeyspike
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PostPosted: 14:42 - 29 Dec 2013    Post subject: Starting problems - 07 CBR125 Reply with quote

Hey guys, Having a bit of a predicament with my bike.
Went to go ride it the other day, hopped on it in my garage and tried to start it but she wouldn't fire.

Tried to give it some gas as I pressed the button, still nothing.
took it outside and tried once again. Managed to start it however the engine cut out shortly after.

By this point the battery was fairly drained so I tried to bump start it. Managed to start the bike, but any time I'd'd give it any throttle, it would cut out.

So I put the bike back in the garage and left it for a bit. Came back later and had another go. Thought it could be a knackered battery as it actually started when bumping it, but just would hold out.

Later on the night, tried to jump start it from my mothers car, still no dice. Now I thought it had to be something else.

Next day, I went into my local mechanics and told them my situation, they said it could be the sensor for the FI has gotten damp or there could be some form of fuel starvation.

Can't take it to the mechanics as they're technically not insured to work over this time period and the earliest they could take a look would be the 6th of Jan.

Went out earlier and tried once again, just in case it was just some damp problem. still nothing.

Check the oil, level seemed a tad high, also smelt a little like petrol although looked relatively clean.

so yeah. I'm a bit stuck as of what to do. I plan on going to the local Honda dealership tomorrow and speaking with them to see what they say (apparently they have had a few people go with with the same model of bike and have this sensor issue). However, I'd like to see what you guys think.

TL;DR:
-Bike wouldn't fire on button
-when it did, it would cut out
-battery's now drained, so can't start from button any more
-bump starting it had more success then the button, but again, wouldn't keep at idle
-giving it any throttle would make it cut out when it did start
-mechs say possible sensor failure in FI system or fuel starvation.
-oil level a little high, smells like petrol a bit too.

Thanks guys!
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Northern Monkey
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PostPosted: 16:02 - 29 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Starter for 10.

Drop the oil out, and replace with fresh oil

Plug battery into charger. If you haven't got a charger, connect the jump leads from your car to the bike battery, turn the car on, and leave it 30 min while you have a cuppa. The car alternator will charge your battery.

Is there a spark? Check youtube for how to check, but involves removing the spark plug and making sure you don't electrocute yourself.

Is the fuel shitty? how long has it been in there, could it be contaminated?
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Mikeyspike
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PostPosted: 16:23 - 29 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Northern Monkey wrote:
Starter for 10.

Drop the oil out, and replace with fresh oil

Plug battery into charger. If you haven't got a charger, connect the jump leads from your car to the bike battery, turn the car on, and leave it 30 min while you have a cuppa. The car alternator will charge your battery.

Is there a spark? Check youtube for how to check, but involves removing the spark plug and making sure you don't electrocute yourself.

Is the fuel shitty? how long has it been in there, could it be contaminated?


I assume there is as spark as she will fire up and idle for a few seconds, but then cuts out. Any throttle and she cuts out too.

Fuel should be fine.. well... I hope, The last place I filled up was a random garage, not like a BP/Shell or even Texaco one.

She was running fine a couple of days ago. This is what I don't understand "/.

But yeah. I'll change the oil in the next couple days. Thanks Smile
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 16:29 - 29 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always had problems with spark plugs on 125cc bikes, put in a new one from a reputable source.
far to many hooky Chinese copies on evil bay net. and the like.
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Mikeyspike
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PostPosted: 16:31 - 29 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Copycat73 wrote:
I always had problems with spark plugs on 125cc bikes, put in a new one from a reputable source.
far to many hooky Chinese copies on evil bay net. and the like.


had an NGK Iridium fitted around 2-3k miles ago from a reputable mechanic so I don't think that would be the problem. Though I will keep it in mind Smile Thank you.
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 29 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mikeyspike wrote:


had an NGK Iridium fitted around 2-3k miles ago from a reputable mechanic so I don't think that would be the problem. Though I will keep it in mind Smile Thank you.


2-3k is doin very well for a spark plug on a bike that size.. if it was mine it would have been in the bin by now & new one fitted..
PS. iridium plugs shit up worse than normal summit to do wit temperature and carbon deposits bein burnt off not worth the extra.
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Northern Monkey
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PostPosted: 16:46 - 29 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mikeyspike wrote:

I assume there is as spark as she will fire up and idle for a few seconds, but then cuts out. Any throttle and she cuts out too.

Fuel should be fine.. well... I hope, The last place I filled up was a random garage, not like a BP/Shell or even Texaco one.

She was running fine a couple of days ago. This is what I don't understand "/.

But yeah. I'll change the oil in the next couple days. Thanks Smile


Are you using the choke?
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 16:55 - 29 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the bike has stood for sometime the battery power/reserve will drop. Over a month is not good for a battery without some sort of charger on it. It most probably will only have enough oomf to turn a cold engine over for a few seconds. If it doesn't fire then the next cycle could be the last chance on that battery.

Cold can allow dampness to soak into the engine which will mean any electrical energy in the ignition can leak to ground which reduces the power of the spark to ignite the air fuel mixture.

Engine oil in a petrol engine can smell of petrol as it is in contact with petrol products throughout it's time in the engine.

A 'Tad high' means? Where and how do you normally check the oil level? The position of the bike and any inclination of the surface will affect the 'gauged' level. It is allways suggested you do your regular oil level check in the same location with the bike as the OEM instructs. On side/centre stand or held level by a gay mate/your mum/dad or woteva.

Charge the battery overnight.
Check the oil level AS PER THE OEM INSTRUCTION.
Turn the fuel cock (if fitted) to On
Set the Choke (if fitted) to the Cold Starting Position (This partially closes off the air which passes through the carburettor/engine which has the effect of increasing the fuel in the air/fuel mixture) If fuel injected, there will be some other 'enrichment' device usually another injector valve.
Turn on Ignition.
Check bike is in Neutral.
'Crack' the throttle open about 1/8-1/4 of a turn from closed.
Push the starter button until the engine fires.
When it fires release the button and jiggle the throttle a little (if needed) to keep the engine running.
As the engine warms up the idle speed should increase.
As it gets to a fast tick-over (idle) you should 'open' the choke to the normal running position.

This sort of problem is prevented by a good maintenance regime.

Keep the electrics clean and dry.
If you suspect dampness in the electrics then spray it with WD40.
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Mikeyspike
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PostPosted: 16:55 - 29 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
2-3k is doin very well for a spark plug on a bike that size.. if it was mine it would have been in the bin by now & new one fitted..
PS. iridium plugs shit up worse than normal summit to do wit temperature and carbon deposits bein burnt off not worth the extra.


Hmm, As far as I was aware, they should be good for 5k. Though I've never really looked at the service intervals. Bad I know.
Do the iridiums actually make any difference at all? I'm not expecting a power increase on a 125 with them, but are they generally better for the bike?

Quote:
Are you using the choke?


She's Fuel Injected, no manual choke. When the bikes cold it'll idle around 2k then drop to 1.5 after around 2-3 minutes. When the bike has fired up, it'll idle at 2k untill it cuts off.
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Mikeyspike
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PostPosted: 17:02 - 29 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
If the bike has stood for sometime the battery power/reserve will drop. Over a month is not good for a battery without some sort of charger on it. It most probably will only have enough oomf to turn a cold engine over for a few seconds. If it doesn't fire then the next cycle could be the last chance on that battery.

-------------------------

A 'Tad high' means? Where and how do you normally check the oil level? The position of the bike and any inclination of the surface will affect the 'gauged' level. It is allways suggested you do your regular oil level check in the same location with the bike as the OEM instructs. On side/centre stand or held level by a gay mate/your mum/dad or woteva.


Bike was stood for around 2-3 days since it was last ridden (that'll be about 4-5 days now however) And the battery didn't sound flat when I first tried it.

oil level has always been a bit below the MAX level on the dipstick. now it's touching it.
Whenever I've checked it, it's always been on flat ground on a paddock stand to allow the bike to sit level.

Thank you for the reply Smile I'll charge the battery later from the mothers car Smile.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 17:06 - 29 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Iridium electrode plugs are better. I have them fitted to all my bikes and starting performance is notably superior to the 'standard' copper core. Never had any problem with fouling.

Some interesting Guff on here. Cheap plugs too. Smile

https://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 17:45 - 29 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mikeyspike wrote:

but are they generally better for the bike?


if the were recommended in the hand book or service manual
then yes.
otherwise use wot it says to put in.
"some know it all" is paid a lot of money to R&D this sort of thing & put their findings into print.

Walloper wrote:
Iridium electrode plugs are better.

not for ZZR14 or so I`ve been readin on another forum..
I suspect some bikes will be suited just fine but others will not.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 29 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Copycat73 wrote:
Mikeyspike wrote:

but are they generally better for the bike?
.


if the were recommended in the hand book or service manual
then yes.
otherwise use wot it says to put in.
"some know it all" is paid a lot of money to R&D this sort of thing & put their findings into print.


NGK call Iridium Plugs 'an Upgrade'

An upgrade doesn't HAVE to be done but it can improve one's lot.

The issue is if the Upgrade is cost effective. I would 'upgrade' at the next recommended change interval I think every two years for plugs. They are not so horribly more expensive then the copper version.
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 18:00 - 29 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:


NGK call Iridium Plugs 'an Upgrade'

An upgrade doesn't HAVE to be done but it can improve one's lot.

The issue is if the Upgrade is cost effective. I would 'upgrade' at the next recommended change interval I think every two years for plugs. They are not so horribly more expensive then the copper version.


"gilding the lily" me think, but its your bike.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 19:51 - 29 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Copycat73 wrote:
Walloper wrote:


NGK call Iridium Plugs 'an Upgrade'

An upgrade doesn't HAVE to be done but it can improve one's lot.

The issue is if the Upgrade is cost effective. I would 'upgrade' at the next recommended change interval I think every two years for plugs. They are not so horribly more expensive then the copper version.


"gilding the lily" me think, but its your bike.


Not at all, it's simply modern science you stubborn auld Luddite you.

Very Happy

FYI. The world (Planet Earth) is in fact a spherical body which goes around the sun. Wink
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 10:50 - 30 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:


Not at all, it's simply modern science you stubborn auld Luddite you.

Very Happy

FYI. The world (Planet Earth) is in fact a spherical body which goes around the sun. Wink


you`ll be burned at the stake for heresy ... Tut Tut
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 10:52 - 30 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Copycat73 wrote:
Walloper wrote:


Not at all, it's simply modern science you stubborn auld Luddite you.

Very Happy

FYI. The world (Planet Earth) is in fact a spherical body which goes around the sun. Wink


you`ll be burned at the stake for heresy ... Tut Tut


I would burn like fcuk too. Very Happy
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 13:18 - 30 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:

I would burn like fcuk too. Very Happy


Jack Daniels does have that effect Laughing
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 14:13 - 30 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Copycat73 wrote:
Walloper wrote:

I would burn like fcuk too. Very Happy


Jack Daniels does have that effect Laughing


Wasted
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salem1987
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PostPosted: 15:53 - 30 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

check the vacuum hose from the fuel tap to the bike also.
My first road bike was a cbr 125 i bought as a non runner, and it turned out it was just a bad hose.
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gavcarter
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PostPosted: 15:56 - 30 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

A huge amount of 2005 models where recalled with shitty ignition coils and most had the same sort of symptoms, check your spark is good and strong.
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MartQ
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PostPosted: 17:55 - 30 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds to me like you have had some dirty fuel.

Dirt got under the float needle in the carb causing the fuel to constantly fill up the carb which will eventually make its way through the cylinder, past the piston rings into the oil - hence oil that smells like petrol.

It also seems that some dirt has got into the carb jets causing fuel starvation, hence it stalls when you rev it (you may find that if you can manage to get the engine warm, it will rev a bit better).

Easy remedy is remove the carb, dismantle the jets and give them a good clean with carb cleaner solvent, re assemble and fit an £1.99 fuel filter in line with the pipe from the tank to the carb. Ditch the fuel from the tank (save it for the lawnmower or for cleaning bits & pieces) and refill with fresh fuel.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 18:12 - 30 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

MartQ wrote:
Sounds to me like you have had some dirty fuel.

Dirt got under the float needle in the carb causing the fuel to constantly fill up the carb which will eventually make its way through the cylinder, past the piston rings into the oil - hence oil that smells like petrol.

It also seems that some dirt has got into the carb jets causing fuel starvation, hence it stalls when you rev it (you may find that if you can manage to get the engine warm, it will rev a bit better).

Easy remedy is remove the carb, dismantle the jets and give them a good clean with carb cleaner solvent, re assemble and fit an £1.99 fuel filter in line with the pipe from the tank to the carb. Ditch the fuel from the tank (save it for the lawnmower or for cleaning bits & pieces) and refill with fresh fuel.


I have burned millions of litres of Diesel and Petrol in countries from South America to Northern Siberia and never had 'dirty' fuel cause a problem.
Where do you get dirty fuel from?
Bet it wasn't from ASDA or Shell or any other petrol station in UK.
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MartQ
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PostPosted: 18:21 - 30 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:

I have burned millions of litres of Diesel and Petrol in countries from South America to Northern Siberia and never had 'dirty' fuel cause a problem.
Where do you get dirty fuel from?
Bet it wasn't from ASDA or Shell or any other petrol station in UK.


Could have come from anywhere. If a petrol station has just had a delivery tanker, it can cause dirt to get churned up from the bottom of the tank. Could be the ignorant twat who used the pump before you that let the nozzle fall into the sand put on the floor to stop you slipping on the spilt diesel. It could be that there was a patch of rust on the inside of the petrol tank of the bike which has flaked off a bit.

I could go on, the possibilities are endless and I'm not about to embark into an argument over the likelihood of dirty fuel in this green and pleasant, but from the symptoms described and personal experience of same symptoms, not that long ago in fact, believe it or not, it is possible to get shite in your fuel tank, however unlikely. (It was from a Gulf station btw.)
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 18:26 - 30 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

MartQ wrote:
Walloper wrote:

I have burned millions of litres of Diesel and Petrol in countries from South America to Northern Siberia and never had 'dirty' fuel cause a problem.
Where do you get dirty fuel from?
Bet it wasn't from ASDA or Shell or any other petrol station in UK.


Could have come from anywhere. If a petrol station has just had a delivery tanker, it can cause dirt to get churned up from the bottom of the tank. Could be the ignorant twat who used the pump before you that let the nozzle fall into the sand put on the floor to stop you slipping on the spilt diesel. It could be that there was a patch of rust on the inside of the petrol tank of the bike which has flaked off a bit.

I could go on, the possibilities are endless and I'm not about to embark into an argument over the likelihood of dirty fuel in this green and pleasant, but from the symptoms described and personal experience of same symptoms, not that long ago in fact, believe it or not, it is possible to get shite in your fuel tank, however unlikely. (It was from a Gulf station btw.)


Very UN likely to get contaminated fuel from a petrol station.
I pump tons of fuel to engines as part of my daily job. Nevewr had engines shut down or loose power from dirt in fuel.

The most probably cause of dirt in fuel is not from a petrol station but more likely from a dirty container. Rolling Eyes
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