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CBR900RR - Carb Cleaning

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wots
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PostPosted: 09:15 - 04 Mar 2014    Post subject: CBR900RR - Carb Cleaning Reply with quote

After running out of fuel the bike can hold back at wide open throttle. Clearly I've dragged some dirt in. I want to strip and clean them, but crucially, I don't want to make a mess of it.

I'm not looking to do a full strip and back to pristine, but I need to ensure I have cleaned everything I can. I have a small ultrasonic cleaner for smaller parts. So:

1) What should I take apart?
2) What should I not even think of?
3) Which bits to replace (Gaskets)?
4) Anything else?

I suspect this bike has been jetted, as it runs a K&N and a Micron exhaust under normal circumstances it's super smooth.

Also, I have a spare petcock, so I'm going to buy the rebuild kit and do that at the same time. In fact I may do that first just in case it caught there.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 09:24 - 04 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remove float bowls. Clean any dirt out using something like petrol and a toothbrush.

Carefully remove the jets one by one and ensure that they're clean. Do it using something like pressurised air. Blowing on them kind of works. Make sure they go exactly back where they came from, else the bike will not run right.

No need to replace anything unless the gaskets are worn. Generally if the rubber doesn't look dry and broken, it's fine to reuse.
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wots
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PostPosted: 17:17 - 08 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Managed to clean the carbs, thank god for my new impact drill, float bowl screws were solid. With the faintest press on the trigger of my impact drill, they freed.

Anyway, all clean, no sign of anything significant. All back together, ran her up, the Mrs was sat behind the bike when it hit about 6K, backfired and singed her eyebrows Thumbs Up

Still the same, ran it up with an auxiliary fuel supply. It ran perfect. I've had the tap apart and replaced with a spare as well as stripping both and using the best bits. Same happened on both. The original membrane looked a bit crap, but there was no difference between old and new taps when changed. I cleaned the in-tank filter, it was crappy but not too bad.

I have a tap repair kit coming anyway, I'll do that, but it looks fine. The only thing I can imagine is some other problem with the vacuum on the petcock, I've checked it all and it looks good. I'll replace the pipe tomorrow. Failing that I may look to get a fuel tap from the earlier fireblade which doesn't have the vacuum and try that.

Have I missed something?

EDIT: It is running 126 jets, rather than standard 120
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 20:44 - 08 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kinked vacuum line, giving you a fuel starve at high load?
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wots
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PostPosted: 21:32 - 08 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'd think, but it's dead straight, it would be almost impossible to kink. They are known to come off, but then it won't run at all. I'll replace the vacuum pipe anyway, as I've got some.
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wots
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PostPosted: 08:35 - 21 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

UPDATE: Yesterday had carbs in bits again, cleaned the mixture screws (forget what these are called), tightened and counted turns 2 and 1/4 all of them. All had nasty white crud in the springs and the washers were a bit manky. I previously didn't want to do this as I knew I'd definitely need a carb sync afterwards. Also, removed the Iridium spark plugs and put the standard ones back in. Vacuum replaced anyway. Also, cleaned the slides, there was an amount of dirt in the bowls on some.

It will now rev to the red line in first but stutters a bit on the way. I actually think the iridium spark plugs weren't helping.

Can someone explain very briefly, what each of the jets do and how this would affect running if there is a problem with them. I am happy to replace, but I don't want to replace the lot.

It is running larger jets, looks like 126 main, which seems odd as I haven't seen them available in that size on wemoto. 125 and then another a jump up to 130.

I have a whole new petcock and gauze coming from the states, only cost £20 which is cheaper than secondhand here. Incidentally tried again with the separate fuel feed and it was doing the same, I must've made a mistake there.
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P.
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PostPosted: 08:42 - 21 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

This may help.

https://www.iwt.com.au/images/effects3.gif

Ideally, I'd have all the jets out, make sure all are clear.
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wots
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PostPosted: 08:47 - 21 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perfect, exactly what I needed, genius. Previously, all jets had been out and cleaned. I just hadn't done the pilot as I thought I'd screw it (pun intended) and then not be able to proceed further.
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evoboy
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PostPosted: 09:21 - 21 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

It shouldnt need to be rebalanced if you clean out the carbs and pilot/air/idle mix screws.

The 126 jets might be from a Dynojet kit thats fitted.

Were the idle mix screws all set differently?
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wots
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PostPosted: 09:40 - 21 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

evoboy wrote:
It shouldnt need to be rebalanced if you clean out the carbs and pilot/air/idle mix screws.

The 126 jets might be from a Dynojet kit thats fitted.

Were the idle mix screws all set differently?
No Dynojet fitted, checked as there was no notched slide. Standard I believe is 120 and it has K&N and Micron exhaust, idles perfectly very little rev flutter.

There's some places on the net that will do full strip and ultrasonic clean for about £60, so may have to go for that next.
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evoboy
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PostPosted: 09:49 - 21 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you checked all the carb diaphragms for splits/'cracks?

Are all the vac lines in good shape without any splits?

Are the inlet manifolds all cracked and old?
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wots
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PostPosted: 09:58 - 21 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

evoboy wrote:
Have you checked all the carb diaphragms for splits/'cracks?

Are all the vac lines in good shape without any splits?

Are the inlet manifolds all cracked and old?
Diaphragms all in good order, no evidence of trapping etc. Vac lines? I replaced the vacuum line to the petcock, not aware of others.

Checked the inlet rubbers which were only disturbed the first time I removed the carbs after having the problem. The ones under the airbox were moving up when the airbox was secured at the screw near the coils. I could tell it was drawing air as easy start caused different running, it had been like this for a while before I realised and was probably contributing to the poor cold start, however even like this it would run fine once off choke. But that is all ok now.
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wots
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PostPosted: 19:26 - 09 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's Fixed!

After a lot of fannying around, I sent the carbs away for ultrasonic cleaning. They came back looking fabulous, noticed that a connector was just barely making a connection. It was a black connector with black and yellow wires IIRC. I pushed this firmly home and re-connected everything. Got all rubbers to seal correctly, pumped fuel through and boom, sounds fantastic. Revs all the way smoother than ever.

I had the carbs stripped (not separated) and ultrasonically cleaned, 4 O rings fitted as these were gone. £45

Very happy.
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