Resend my activation email : Register : Log in 
BCF: Bike Chat Forums


primer cracking like mad

Reply to topic
Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop
View previous topic : View next topic  
Author Message

skikman
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 07 Nov 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 15:11 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: primer cracking like mad Reply with quote

hi folks.i bought a yamaha fj1200 that was painted matt black.i want to do it in gloss black.i striped it down and sanded it.dont think it needs a prime coat as its pretty good,except for the belly pan which i have repaired,sanded and used a can of carplan hi-build primer.it cracked all over the place.not just the primer but through the matt to the original blue.sanded it down again and used plastic primer.went on ok but it is clear.so put the grey primer on it the next day and it started cracking as i was spraying.wtf is going on?
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stickybackbob
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 23 Mar 2013
Karma :

PostPosted: 15:18 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

The paint is reacting either to previous layers or to the plastic base. For plastic surfaces, running a blowtorch quickly over them and then wiping down with a solvent can get good results. For previously painted surfaces,an isolating paint may be required
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

gavcarter
Could Be A Chat Bot



Joined: 28 Mar 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 15:22 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

get a power sander of some description, orbital , palm sander etc drill attachment and strip the whole thing back to bare plastic with 320 grit paper.

Give a good wash down with pre-paint panel wipe etc then start with a plastic primer. i would skip the high build primer unless you need a lot of little holes filling.

2 or 3 coats of normal primer with a light sanding of 600g will give a good firm base to start the colour on.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Tamsin
World Chat Champion



Joined: 07 Mar 2014
Karma :

PostPosted: 17:18 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with sticky.

Its a chemical reaction between the two paints, best thing to do is take it back to bare and start again...
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

misscrabstick
Crazy Courier



Joined: 05 Jul 2013
Karma :

PostPosted: 18:08 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

yep, reaction between paint products that do not agree with each other, you can buy isolator for spray guns that seals off the base layer from additional layers and stops this, don't think there is an aerosol equivalent though, rub it down to the plastic and start over.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website You must be logged in to rate posts

skikman
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 07 Nov 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:53 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: primer cracking like mad Reply with quote

thanks guys for the info.will sand right down and start again.i am going to use an air gun for the base coat and clear coat on everything.i have 2 pack paint.do i need an isolator for this?if so what do you recommend?
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

gavcarter
Could Be A Chat Bot



Joined: 28 Mar 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:57 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Re: primer cracking like mad Reply with quote

skikman wrote:
thanks guys for the info.will sand right down and start again.i am going to use an air gun for the base coat and clear coat on everything.i have 2 pack paint.do i need an isolator for this?if so what do you recommend?


Probably not once you are down to bare plastic.

have a read up on spraying with an airgun they can be a bit of an arsehole to get going right.

You need good dry air to lay down paint - any left over water in the lines will cause bubbling or crazing like you have already have experienced.

Get a LONG hose coil it in a bucket of cold water ( so it cools the air ) and then fit a GOOD filter to the line before the spray gun.

Strain the paint, be extra careful measuring the hardners and thinners - a mistake here can mean the pain never sets or just dries in the gun and doesn't get to the panel.

personally I find aerosols so much quicker and easier.....
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

sidewinder
World Chat Champion



Joined: 24 Aug 2011
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:59 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

2 pack you'll need a ventilated face mask.that stuff is bad if you breath it in Thumbs Up
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

lihp
World Chat Champion



Joined: 22 Sep 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:01 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is far far easier to fix than everybody is suggesting.

Sand it back to remove all paint defects.

Leave for 24 hours and re-check for defects, then paint it with BARCOAT ISOLATOR (this will prevent the reactions) Then once that has cured paint whatever you want on top.
____________________
covent.gardens: lihp is my most favourite member ever
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

skikman
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 07 Nov 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 22:25 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

PhilDawson8270 wrote:
This is far far easier to fix than everybody is suggesting.

Sand it back to remove all paint defects.

Leave for 24 hours and re-check for defects, then paint it with BARCOAT ISOLATOR (this will prevent the reactions) Then once that has cured paint whatever you want on top.


i just want to prime the belly pan.so sand right down,barcoat isolator then prime[right?]the rest of the bike[tank/panels in good shape]has been lightly sanded 320 then 400.do i still need to put barcoat isolator over everything before base coat
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

gavcarter
Could Be A Chat Bot



Joined: 28 Mar 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 22:33 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

skikman wrote:
PhilDawson8270 wrote:
This is far far easier to fix than everybody is suggesting.

Sand it back to remove all paint defects.

Leave for 24 hours and re-check for defects, then paint it with BARCOAT ISOLATOR (this will prevent the reactions) Then once that has cured paint whatever you want on top.


i just want to prime the belly pan.so sand right down,barcoat isolator then prime[right?]the rest of the bike[tank/panels in good shape]has been lightly sanded 320 then 400.do i still need to put barcoat isolator over everything before base coat


If your forking out for it instead of sanding right back then yes get enough to do whole bike.

If you using isolator only need to re-flatten the surface if paint is stuck well.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

lihp
World Chat Champion



Joined: 22 Sep 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 22:54 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

gavcarter wrote:

If you using isolator only need to re-flatten the surface if paint is stuck well.


He still needs a 400grit finish, and no paint defects before the isolator.

You then paint your primer onto the Isolator, but you do NOT sand or do ANY prep to the Isolator, you can buy it in small quantities too.
____________________
covent.gardens: lihp is my most favourite member ever
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

gavcarter
Could Be A Chat Bot



Joined: 28 Mar 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 22:55 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

PhilDawson8270 wrote:
gavcarter wrote:

If you using isolator only need to re-flatten the surface if paint is stuck well.


He still needs a 400grit finish, and no paint defects before the isolator.

You then paint your primer onto the Isolator, but you do NOT sand or do ANY prep to the Isolator, you can buy it in small quantities too.


Thats what a meant by flatten - should of expanded on it maybe....
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

lihp
World Chat Champion



Joined: 22 Sep 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:01 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

skikman wrote:


i just want to prime the belly pan.so sand right down,barcoat isolator then prime[right?]the rest of the bike[tank/panels in good shape]has been lightly sanded 320 then 400.do i still need to put barcoat isolator over everything before base coat


Chances are, the paint on the rest of the bike is the same as what has been reacting.

So you're safest to do it all, if I am painting anything unknown, I always isolate, just to save any hassle later on for the sake of 2 hours time at the start.

Remember, reactions don't have to happen instantly, they may happen for up to 24 hours with 2-pack, and even a couple of days with Cellulose.

So getting the whole bike covered, in a nice finish, for it then to react is a real kick in the balls.
____________________
covent.gardens: lihp is my most favourite member ever
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

skikman
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 07 Nov 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:34 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

PhilDawson8270 wrote:
skikman wrote:


i just want to prime the belly pan.so sand right down,barcoat isolator then prime[right?]the rest of the bike[tank/panels in good shape]has been lightly sanded 320 then 400.do i still need to put barcoat isolator over everything before base coat


Chances are, the paint on the rest of the bike is the same as what has been reacting.

So you're safest to do it all, if I am painting anything unknown, I always isolate, just to save any hassle later on for the sake of 2 hours time at the start.

Remember, reactions don't have to happen instantly, they may happen for up to 24 hours with 2-pack, and even a couple of days with Cellulose.

So getting the whole bike covered, in a nice finish, for it then to react is a real kick in the balls.

ok lads will do.first time spraying with gun so will practice a bit on old stuff before i tackle bike.1coat isolator,4 base,decals,3-4 clear??? do i let harden and sand in between any coats?
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:38 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could just be over-eager for the re-coat too.

I've had a second layer of paint crack up on me after putting the first layer onto dry, bare metal with a rattle can. Nothing there for it to react with other than the first layer of exactly the same paint which went on smooth.

Pure impatience, I should have left it a few days before re-coating.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

lihp
World Chat Champion



Joined: 22 Sep 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 00:12 - 07 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Could just be over-eager for the re-coat too.

I've had a second layer of paint crack up on me after putting the first layer onto dry, bare metal with a rattle can. Nothing there for it to react with other than the first layer of exactly the same paint which went on smooth.

Pure impatience, I should have left it a few days before re-coating.


Plenty to react with unless you're in a spray booth
____________________
covent.gardens: lihp is my most favourite member ever
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 09:20 - 07 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

PhilDawson8270 wrote:


Plenty to react with unless you're in a spray booth


More that the second coat also cracked and lifted the first coat too.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

lihp
World Chat Champion



Joined: 22 Sep 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 09:30 - 07 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reactions don't always happen instantly though, and can take a few days even depending on the paint used. Any reaction will affect all layers above it.
____________________
covent.gardens: lihp is my most favourite member ever
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts
Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 12 years, 9 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
  Display posts from previous:   
This page may contain affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. By clicking on an affiliate link, you accept that third-party cookies will be set.

Post new topic   Reply to topic    Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop All times are GMT + 1 Hour
Page 1 of 1

 
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You cannot download files in this forum

Read the Terms of Use! - Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group
 

Debug Mode: ON - Server: birks (www) - Page Generation Time: 0.11 Sec - Server Load: 1.01 - MySQL Queries: 13 - Page Size: 104.75 Kb