West midlands - Anyone fancy showing me how to change chain?

[sharpenough23]

I have the chain, just don't have a clue what I'm doing.


£15 in it for you!!!!

[nathan k]

It's not hard mate, what bike do you have?

This might help https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lFFePQlVc4

[Teflon-Mike]

If its an SR125, it ought to be a split-link chain... do you have the split link?
If so, it ought be a two minute job, requiring little more than a pair of pliers.
If the bike is ridable, and you fancy pottering towards Coventry, I'm about all week-end faffing with my bikes...pm me and I'll pm you an address; happy to loan pliers and point at stuff for you while you have a crack at it.
Else, just make sire that the U end of the split link clip is towards the back wheel when its on the bottom run of the chain, pointing at the front wheel when on the top run, and is properly seated in the grooves.
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[Tristan.]

If you bring it to Coventry I'm happy to, no need for monies

[sharpenough23]

In all honesty I don't know if it's a split link or not.

I probably could get it too Coventry just abit risky as whenever I Change down to 1st I can hear it bouncing around & Its on the last groove of the adjustment plate so I can't even bodge it .

[Tristan.]

It almost certainly will be a split link. Dint try to identify the chain on the bike. Look at your new one. The box will have a chain and a single extra link in bits

If that extra link is a plate with two pins attached and another plate with two holes it's meant to be riveted on. If it's a plate with two pins, a plate with two holes and a spring steel retainer plate with a slot most of the way through its a split link

Cut the old chain off, loop the new chain on, put in the half link with pins, put the plate on the ends of the pins then slide the retainer onto the grooves on the exposed ends. It should go most of the way by hand, then use pliers to pop it on the rest of the way. I would watch a YouTube video before though if your not confident.

The retainer plate should go so the the closed end will travel forwards.

[The Shaggy D.A.]

https://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/images/chainlink.jpg
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[sharpenough23]

[Andy9934]

Aren't you supposed to change the sprockets at the same time?

[Vincent]

How far is it from yours to Tristans OP? It's better to have someone show you how if you never changed one before.......... if possible
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[Kickstart]

[TheCatSatOnTh...]

[Kickstart]

Hi

Depends on the bike. Large bikes certainly yes (ie, large bike where a C&S is say £80, of which £20 is the sprockets), but on a small bike the chain can be relatively cheap compared to the sprockets. Eg, my GSXR50 where a new cheap chain is £7.58 and a set of sprockets is £10.14, or the Aprilia AF1s where the rear sprocket is a bit odd and hence a pair of sprockets is close to the price of a chain (but the original sprockets are tough and will outlast a couple of chains).

All the best

Keith
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[i.p.phrealy]

How I used to change my chain on my 125.
bike in neutral on centre stand.
moved split link to rear sprocket.
loosened rear axle, loosened chain adjusters (equally!)
pushed the wheel forwards.
removed split link and drop the bottom half of the chain onto the floor.
attach new chain to old chain, put the plate on, but not the split link.
pull the bottom chain gently so it passes through and over the front sprocket until it reaches the rear sprocket.
remove the old chain and bin it.
use the rear sprocket to hold both ends of the chain and push the link through from the back, put the front plate on, then the split link, making sure the closed end of the link is facing the direction of travel.
re-tension your chain, tighten the back wheel up, check it's all in line, add some oil.
go ride!
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