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The eternal blackness of my oil!

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DanceLikeAMon...
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PostPosted: 11:22 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: The eternal blackness of my oil! Reply with quote

I was checking the oil level on my SR125 this morning, and all I could see through the window was blackness. Shocked

Assuming that there was a leak somewhere, I poured about 1/2 liter of oil in, ran the engine then checked again - still nothing but black!

With the enging running, I shone a torch in and had a look. This time I could make out some really dark, gritty looking fluiding floating past. It was above the level, so it didn't need the top up.

Is this just a really dirty oil filter / oil, or could it be something more serious has gotten in there?

I have emailed the guy I bought it from (Dodsi) to see when he last changed them, but is there something else I should be looking out for?

Cheers!
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Flip
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PostPosted: 11:36 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's gritty change it and filter. Don't forget, you only see the oil when the engine is warm Thumbs Up
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DanceLikeAMon...
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PostPosted: 11:49 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
you only see the oil when the engine is warm

I knew that you had to run the engine before you checked the oil, but I never knew that you couldn't see it unless you had run it. How does that work then?

I have ordered a new filter, so I will change that next weekend. I know nowt about mechanics, but I love getting my hands dirty! Very Happy
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 12:13 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Small 4 strokes only have a tiny amount of oil in them and often being air cooled as well give it a hard time. 1000 mile oil changes would not surprise me.

The procedure for checking the oil level varies from bike to bike, but rarely should you check it with the engine running as that will result in you thinking it is low on oil.

All the best

Keith
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DanceLikeAMon...
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PostPosted: 12:29 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Accoring to Mr Haynes, it should be changed every 1000 km Shocked . Good job it only takes a litre of oil each time! Very Happy

If the engine hadn't been running, I wouldn't have made out a thing, it was only because of the little gritty bits I could see moving that I knew there was anything in there! Even when using the torch I couldn't see anything.

I take it that the oil should be changed waaaay before it goes black? Otherwise it would get a bit tricky to view it in the window bitty.
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dodsi
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PostPosted: 12:38 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

The oil and filter was changed (there are 2 filters)

Both have been changed, they are a fine mesh and a more course mesh

I changed the oil not long before you bought it!
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Guest
Brolly Dolly



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PostPosted: 13:27 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

As Keith said, oil gets a really hard time in a small engine. That's why they tell you to change it more often. £3 worth of oil can stop £500 worth of engine damage.

All engines use oil to some extent, that's why they tell you to check the level regularly. It's no good putting a litre in and assuming it'll all still be there 1000 miles later.

If you've got a level window there's no excuse - with the bike upright the level should be near the top of the window with the engine cold. Top up as required and if you're using the bike every day check it each morning. Over time you'll notice that the level is going down slowly and be able to keep it correctly set.
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DanceLikeAMon...
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PostPosted: 13:57 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
If you've got a level window there's no excuse

Ahem, I think you fogot about lasiness! Laughing

Quote:
I changed the oil not long before you bought it

Cheers for the mail Dodsi. Yeah, I'm pretty sure I checked it properly. I will change it next weekend anyway (I have to drain of some of the excess anyway so I may as well replace it all) and see what it looks like when it comes out.

Cheers for the help!
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Bomberman
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PostPosted: 14:44 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Guest wrote:
If you've got a level window there's no excuse - with the bike upright the level should be near the top of the window with the engine cold.

I was just about to post this question as I'm about to go out and do maintenance on my bike. I've always done it from cold, just like with my car. But! Yesterday I got my original TZR manual off eBay and it states that I should check the oil level after 1 minute running Shocked I was very surprised indeed. As a sort of checksum question can anyone tell me if .7l of oil seems like far too much?
I guess I'll just see how much drains out, but I've a horrible feeling that my bike has been running (possibly for years) with half the transmission oil it should have Thumbs Down
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 17:08 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

flip wrote:
Don't forget, you only see the oil when the engine is warm Thumbs Up

WTF are you talking about???? That's complete bollocks..




Guest wrote:
As Keith said, oil gets a really hard time in a small engine. That's why they tell you to change it more often. £3 worth of oil can stop £500 worth of engine damage.

All engines use oil to some extent, that's why they tell you to check the level regularly. It's no good putting a litre in and assuming it'll all still be there 1000 miles later.

If you've got a level window there's no excuse - with the bike upright the level should be near the top of the window with the engine cold. Top up as required and if you're using the bike every day check it each morning. Over time you'll notice that the level is going down slowly and be able to keep it correctly set.

YAY!! someone else who knows what they are doing!!!! Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up I can stop banging my head against the wall so often now Smile
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Bomberman
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PostPosted: 17:30 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:
YAY!! someone else who knows what they are doing!!!! Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up I can stop banging my head against the wall so often now Smile

Not to be an arse mate, but are you suggesting that Yamaha don't know what they're doing with their own engines and handbooks? Indeed, I've just replaced the oil on my bike, which requires .7l from empty. The oil was at just below top level when cold (two days no running) and I got at the very most .4l out of it Shocked I'll have to wait to check the cold level now, but I suspect the whole window will be full and more. Having said that, after 1 min running I couldn't see jack https://www.thebdaman.f2s.com/crazysmilie.gif https://www.thebdaman.f2s.com/tonguesmilie.gif
So atm, I'm running on pure amount put in until I can work out where I went wrong https://www.thebdaman.f2s.com/tonguesmilie.gif
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Flip
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PostPosted: 18:18 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

@ ZXR61 or whatever the hell your name is. According to my Haynes for a Gixxer 750, you warm the bike to operating temp on a centre or paddock stand allow it to cool for a min before checking the oil. That'll be a warm engine. The same works on my ZXR400.

Wasn't saying the bike should be running Thumbs Up
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tatters
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PostPosted: 18:29 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

warming the oil up for a few mins is for when you drain it, checking cold is best beacuse the oil has setled to the bottom of the sump
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Flip
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PostPosted: 18:39 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe I'm getting confused then. Haven't even seen my bike for nearly two months Thinking
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Flip
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PostPosted: 18:47 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just checked the Gixxer Haynes book and that what it says to do. So I'll carry on doing it Thumbs Up
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 19:40 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bomberman wrote:
As a sort of checksum question can anyone tell me if .7l of oil seems like far too much?


Within reason. Anything from 600cc to 1.3L I have seen for various 125 2 stroke engines.

With a 2 stroke the oil does not warm up much very quickly, so it will take ages for it to drain out. Also there will always be some left unless you do a complete engine strip down (although far less on a 2 stroke like the TZR than on a 4 stroke with a high pressure pump and filter).

All the best

Keith
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DanceLikeAMon...
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PostPosted: 19:47 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

According to my Yamaha manual, it is best to check the oil after running the engine for a few minutes, and it holds 1 litre of 10w/40w oil.

It's overfilled now so it has to be drained anyway. If the refill doesn't help, I will be back for more advice - you have been warned! Laughing

Cheers for the help everyone!
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kasandrich
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Black oil just means its dirty, so change it. a small engine with only a litre in it will dirty the oil quickly. Very Happy
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mchaggis
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PostPosted: 20:40 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

kasandrich wrote:
Black oil just means its dirty, so change it. a small engine with only a litre in it will dirty the oil quickly. Very Happy


Tell me about it! The sweet, pure, gorgeous yellow slippery nectar gets turned into black and grey viscous filth in about 20 miles! New oil every 3000 miles? Ha ha.

Is it okay to flush the system with a solvent in an effort to get the crap out of there before I put new oil in? I would have assumed so, just never bothered doing it.

The CG engine has only 1.1 litres in it, and that's a 4 stroke for heaven's sake!
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kasandrich
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PostPosted: 21:28 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

With a 4 stroke the oil is lubricating and cooling the engine and gearbox, and there will be some combustion gunk, (carbon etc) get past the piston and into the oil, with a 2 stroke the oil is only lubricating the gearbox and not subjected to the same dirt /crap.

Find a source that is reasonable priced and change it regularly.

I have heard of people using diesel as a flushing agent, by draining the old oil out, refilling with diesel instea of oil, running it around the bloke, then draining that, but I don't like the sound of it Shocked

But you can buy flushing agents you add to the old oil, drive for a bit and then drain, but you wouldn't need a whole can for a little bike.
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Bomberman
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PostPosted: 21:30 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

kasandrich wrote:
with a 2 stroke the oil is only lubricating the gearbox and not subjected to the same dirt /crap.

It oils the clutch too actually Wink
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 22:56 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

kasandrich wrote:
I have heard of people using diesel as a flushing agent, by draining the old oil out, refilling with diesel instea of oil, running it around the bloke, then draining that, but I don't like the sound of it Shocked


Not heard of that, but diesel oil is used for this as it has very high detergent content.

All the best

Keith
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pipnet11
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PostPosted: 23:58 - 09 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I have heard of people using diesel as a flushing agent, by draining the old oil out, refilling with diesel instea of oil, running it around the bloke, then draining that, but I don't like the sound of it


Yer seen people do this before. You can run the engine with it in as it is also quite a good lubricant, but only for a few mins. The Problem my mate had after doing it was that he had to fluch the diesel out with oil afterwards, so he had to use two lots of oil.

My GS125 oil got dirty very quickly. I changed the oil every 1500 miles and it hardly burned any unless i was canning it. I always changed the filter too, but the oil was always black again by 100 miles. I never had any problems with it, I have done over 6000 miles on it and the milage stands at a grand 52,502, however I have no idea how much was done to the engine before i got it.

It holds 1.2 litres of oil if its totaly empty, usually took 900CC to fill it to the full line. The suzuki manual says check the level window when the bike is cold. You can see why as just kicking it over 4-5 times makes the oil dissapear from the window.
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Git
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PostPosted: 10:14 - 10 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Diesel is ace at flushing the shit out of the cases and the smell is fantastic Cool , if I have ever run out of engine flush I use a dash of diesel, the amount depends on sump capacity so I usually end up leaving 3/4 of oil in there and just topping up 1/4 the volume with diesel.

If the engine is really that mucky do you really want to disturb all that muck inside the engine and risk blocking an oil way or similar?

I think flushing an engine is best done bit by bit, instead of adding shit loads of flushing agent and loosening all the muck that will get spread all over just add a small amount of the flush to the oil over a few oil changes and try and move it over time and not in one hit.

NB I have only ever used diesel to flush the cases on diesel engines, not sure I would do it on a petrol lump.
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 16:23 - 10 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bomberman wrote:

Not to be an arse mate, but are you suggesting that Yamaha don't know what they're doing with their own engines and handbooks?

That would be the understatement of the century, who the fuck else would come up with an engine design where you have to pull the fucking thing out of the frame & split the cases the remove the starter motor? (XS650)
& then we have their complete inability to design a transmission, you would have thought they learned their lesson with the grenading gearboxes in XS1100's, but then they come up with exploding clutch baskets in R1's...

As for their handbooks..... There is one where the letter *F* is missing from the entire chapter regarding the transmission.... Try writing a manual about the gear shiFter & shiFt mechanism with no F... Rolling Eyes

flip wrote:
@ ZXR61 or whatever the hell your name is. According to my Haynes for a Gixxer 750, you warm the bike to operating temp on a centre or paddock stand allow it to cool for a min before checking the oil. That'll be a warm engine. The same works on my ZXR400.

Wasn't saying the bike should be running Thumbs Up

Yeah, but thats not what you sdaid... you said "you can't see the oil unless it's warm"... indicating that it's invisible when cold.. Smile
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