Clutch still slipping after changing the friction plates.

[c_dug]

I changed my clutch a tad over two weeks ago now, I've done well over 1000 miles on the new plates, I've noticed the clutch is still slipping a fair amount at lowish revs but big throttle openings, for instance if I go full throttle in second gear from 2krpm, the clutch will slip up to around 6krpm and then seems to grip. The grip could be me easing off a bit.

I changed the springs and friction plates for EBC items. I didn't change the steel plates. There was some blueing on two or three of the steel plates, very localised, there wasn't any burned smell from them though, and the plates were still dead flat.

Could the steel plates be the issue? If not what else might it be?
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I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[yen_powell]

When I had a slipping clutch it was the arm where the cable connected to the engine that wasn't turning properly due to a seized bearing. Replaced the bearing, added some grease and all was well again.
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Blackmail is a nasty word........but not as nasty as phlegm!
XT1200Z and a DR350 in bits

[Snorty]

Definitely could be the steel plates. I had the same issue, I'd changed the friction plates but not the steels, and it started slipping again. If the steels are blued they need changing.
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Current: Yamaha FZ1 '07 | GSXR 750 SRAD

Past: CB125TDC | TZR125 | GPZ500 | CBR600F3 | ZX9-R | GSXR1000 K4

[Fisty]

Change the springs. The EBC heavy duty ones I had caused more slip than the fucked standard ones. I fitted OE new ones and has been fine since.
____________________
Quietly and consistently taking the piss.
TL1000R | Hayabusa | ZXR400 | TL1000S | Bandit 400 V
Fatter and faster than Fret

[DMCpro]

Cable stretched/not adjusted properly?
Did you measure the steel plates?
What oil are you using?
Steel plates are checked for warp on an engineers flat plate using feeler gauges may not be able to see warp with the naked eye

Possible position of the plates? Sometimes last plate is thicker or in a different plate
____________________
Honda CB-1, TS125X
VW Golf Estate

[c_dug]

Thanks for the suggestions

The cable is at the end of it's adjustment, but that would do the opposite and not disengage, no?

Plates were checked with a feeler gauge on our marble kitchen cutting plate, flat enough for me to be confident they're not warped. ( Don't tell the OH).

Should have measured the steel plates but to be fair I didn't so I suppose that is a possibility.

Oil is 10w40 motorcycle oil, motul I think but could be Halfords own.

Fairly sure the plates were identical, I have both the Haynes and the Yamaha Service manuals, no mention of a specific order in either.


As it stands this suggestion:

[DMCpro]

I would get a new set of steel plates in there.


Sometimes with the cable it can disengage but not fully causing slip

Is the clutch cable mounted onto the cover or on the engine side?
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Honda CB-1, TS125X
VW Golf Estate

[c_dug]

The cover I think, though I might look in the morning and decide otherwise!
____________________
I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[Fisty]

Did you soak the new plates in oil overnight?
____________________
Quietly and consistently taking the piss.
TL1000R | Hayabusa | ZXR400 | TL1000S | Bandit 400 V
Fatter and faster than Fret

[c_dug]

Nope, instructions just said to give them a coat in oil before fitting?
____________________
I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[Pete.]

Soaking clutch plates belongs in the same box as stuff like wire brushing new tyres to scrub them in, firmly taped up with a big sticker on the front stating 'OPEN ONLY IN EVERT OF DERP'

The bluing on your plates looks normal for the mild slipping you describe though the pic does indicate slight dishing on that plate.

Check your basics first. Pop the cable off at the engine end. If you can't make the lever flap about loosely by pushing and pulling the end of the cable, wash all the gunge out of it or replace. While you have the cover off clean and lube the helical release mechanism and check the pushrod clearance.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[c_dug]

This bit:

[el_oso]

the pushrod clearance was what was wrong with the SV. If it's too tight then it may not allow the clutch to engage fully. The SV was opposite. It was so loose that no amount of cable pull would be able to turn the worm mechanism enough to push the pushrod and disengage the clutch.
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Duke 390
Previous: '05 XR125L | '96 XJ600S Diversion |'05 Suzuki GSXR1000 | '05 Honda CBR125-R | '97 YZF 600R Thundercat | '11 Honda CBR250
Car: Jeep Wrangler 4.0L

[c_dug]

Oh, I see, I thought Pete. meant the arm that runs through the centre of the clutch itself.

The divvy doesn't use a push rod, the cable runs down through the bike directly to the clutch.
____________________
I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[gandy666]

hydraulic or cable clutch?

if its hydraulic, check that the fluid return hole in the master cylinder isn't blocked.

engine heat makes the fluid expand and if it cant return it'll engage your clutch

[Pete.]

[Ed Case]

Have you started using a super-dooper non-bike oil ?. Some clutches are sensitive to fully-synthetic car stuff.

[c_dug]

Sorry, should have clarified earlier!

No super oils used, just a plain motorcycle oil.
____________________
I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[1cyl]

I fixed this problem with:

https://www.bikechatforums.com/download.php?id=93083
____________________
Chase my Witch up, Catch my Snitch up.
The SMC | The Pit | Stable

[c_dug]

Did that not make the clutch very hard to pull?

To be fair if it worked I'll happily give it a go as a short term solution, need to ride to Bournemouth on Monday.
____________________
I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[bodger]

Your diversion should have a return spring between the clutch actuating arm and the clutch casing to help return the arm.
Try disconnecting the clutch cable from the arm to see if the arm moves easily.
If the arm is stiff in the casing, it will need to be stripped to allow it to move freely.
PS also check that the clutch cable moves freely.

[c_dug]

It does have a spring, I'll have a fiddle when the rain stops and see whether there is any stiffness.

I'm sure it was all moving freely when I changed the plates.
____________________
I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[Robby]

I have had similar problems in the past following a clutch change, where It would either slip or be really stiff and grabby. Sorted itself out in 200 miles or so.

My theory is that the steel plates and basket wear to fit each other over time, and when you change the clutch the bits end up in a slightly different position and catch on each other. Over a few hundred miles they wear smooth and start behaving.

A bit of blueing shouldn't affect the steel plates too much - the reason to look out for it is that blueing is a sign of heat, and heat causes warping. If they aren't warped I wouldn't change them. I probably would roughen them a bit with some emery paper. That could make the clutch a bit grabby, but it will wear down in no time.

[1cyl]

Not particularly heavy. But then I think Lifan/pit bike engines only have small basket setups anyway, so less plates and weaker springs perhaps?
In addition to the ziptied springs, I found that adjusting the cable so that the biting point is only just cleared when the levers pulled, also helped in curing the slip when engaged.
____________________
Chase my Witch up, Catch my Snitch up.
The SMC | The Pit | Stable

[c_dug]

So after ignoring this issue for a while it was gradually getting worse, yesterday I decided to get off my arse and do something about it.

I think this:

https://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee81/paddy2007dug/DSC_0341_zpsam5canp2.jpg

Was causing a lot of my issues.

I installed a new cable yesterday and it seems much better than it was, I'm having some real issue with getting it set up nicely though. At the moment it feel a little like the travel in the lever isn't equating to enough travel at the clutch arm if that makes any sense?

Like when the lever is all the way out the clutch still slips a tiny bit, and when the lever is all the way in it still crunches a tad on the gear change. I feel like if there was an extra 5mm at both ends then it would solve all of the issues.

Is this just an adjustment issue? The lever isn't being pulled back entirely, when I let go of the lever I can push it another 2-3mm out, unsure if that is relevant?
____________________
I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.