Carb jetting question

[EazyDuz]

I fit aftermarket pipes (with baffles which are wrapped with fibreglass) on my bike.
Stock everything else.
It pops on decel which is annoying to me. Ive read a lot of conflicting info on how to stop it.
Im positive there are no exhaust leaks. I read that if i richen the pilot screw, it will cure the popping. Which makes sense because it only does it when the throttle is fully closed, if its open a tiny bit it wont do it.
Basically whenever im engine braking with no throttle it will do it, e.g down hills.

Problem is the pilot screw is seized with a stripped head, and at £60 to have it removed and replaced by a carb specialist its not something i want to do really. Would putting a larger (by 2.5) main jet cure it, or would that make no difference?
Or what about slightly narrowing the air intake hole, or would that affect performance?

Also does anyone know a good, reliable carb specialist anywhere?
Thanks
____________________
To shreds you say? Tss tss tss

[pdg]

The main fuel circuit isn't active with a closed throttle on most carbs I've seen so changing this jet probably won't make any difference at all...

Although, if you've changed the exhaust for a freer flowing one but left the carb stock you might be setting yourself up for other problems - check plugs etc....
____________________
Any and all advice given should not be followed - if you have to ask it means you don't know so get a man in to do it for you.

[EazyDuz]

[pdg]

That's not the only way to get a pilot screw out, but then I haven't seen your carbs or stroked them at all so I couldn't advise on that bit...
____________________
Any and all advice given should not be followed - if you have to ask it means you don't know so get a man in to do it for you.

[EazyDuz]

[pdg]

Seeing as the 'problem' was caused by a modification, sorting that properly would be the right thing to do. Just 'modding' more things in an attempt to mask it is isn't...

I wouldn't trust anyone who takes a drill bit near a carb with it attached to the vehicle which explains why the price is so high for a '5 minute job'.

If you're not comfortable taking the carb off and getting that screw out yourself, then the only other sensible option is to take it to someone else.
____________________
Any and all advice given should not be followed - if you have to ask it means you don't know so get a man in to do it for you.

[EazyDuz]

No I was quoted £20-40 (depending on how long it takes) to remove the carb and send it to them. Would be £60ish inc insured postage to them.
I can take the carb off its just the removal of the jet I wouldn't fancy trying myself. Think I'll just leave it for now and pull the clutch in more often than engine braking.
____________________
To shreds you say? Tss tss tss

[Hetzer]

It sounds like you need to change the main jet. I had to do mine on a Fireblade when I fitted a Micron can.
____________________
"There's the horizon! Ride hard, ride fast and cut down all who stand in your way!"

[gavbriggs]

Does it have a manual choke? Put it on ever so slightly. It will probably stall at junctions but just to text if it cures the decel pop.

It would be better to sort the pilots tho, it took me a while to get mine set up after having to replace on of the four carbs.

Standard it 3 turns out, mine are at 4.5 turns out and that with just a viper end can. Rest of the revs is fine but it had a splutter at around 2k rpm, which is commute/traffic speed and nearly had me in trouble a few times
____________________
Recent bikes: Varadero 125 - Mod 2 3/2/14 - Bandit 1200 SK4

[EazyDuz]

[EazyDuz]

Another thing to note is that when I pull the choke when the engine is hot, rpms increase and it doesn't stall. Further suggests that the pilot is lean right?
____________________
To shreds you say? Tss tss tss