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phlegmatical
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 25 Nov 2013
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PostPosted: 21:02 - 31 Jul 2014    Post subject: keeway issues Reply with quote

ok my keeway superlight 125 (yes i do regret buying it!) has had a couple of issues since buying it and all but one either me or the garage have solved.

the one issue im still having and have asked before here is with pulling off.

From cold in the morning it pulls off ok but as the bike starts to warm it struggles to move off and i have to really give it some revs to get get it moving (which seem to take forever to build up) then i get a clunk and jolt as if something has engaged and it will move.

once the bike has got going it runs great and no other issues!

I know it is not me that is the issue as i have just done my cbt and completed mod 1 and 2 using a couple of different bikes and I have had other bikes in the past and never had this problem.

searches i have done have gave me no answers to this other than basically its a 125 single cylinder bike and it happens, the dealer i got it from has said "thats how all keeways ride".

Any thoughts/advice?

Cheers!
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humanbeing
Nova Slayer



Joined: 20 Mar 2011
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PostPosted: 00:00 - 01 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chinese bike are famous for extra lean to scam that "Euro 3"
-turn the mix screw / fatter pilot jet
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phlegmatical
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Joined: 25 Nov 2013
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PostPosted: 05:11 - 01 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

It only does it when bike is warm and my bike won't run with choke on when it is warm. It has done about 800 miles.

Sorry but where is the mix screw and how much do I adjust it? Is that the screw i adjust for idle speed? If so i have adjusted that already as it was too low and bike kept cutting out but is fine now. I'm not all that technical Embarassed
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Pete.
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Joined: 22 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 05:52 - 01 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't piss about with the mixture just yet. It doesn't even fit the symptoms if they are being described correctly. Taking them at face value, your problem seems to lie with the clutch. A better description of the symptoms is required.

This is a manual clutch bike - right?

You're starting it up on choke with the oil cold and riding away normally. do you ride gently when it's cold or do you set off at your normal pace?

How does the bike run on choke? Does it pull well or is it a bit lackluster?

How long from starting cold do you suffer the problem? Is It as soon as the choke comes off?

Once the choke comes off does it pull forwards but slip when you apply throttle or does it just not move at all?

Revving it until it engages is a very poor idea. It'll cause damage and lots of wear and contaminate the oil. Try to avoid this course of action even if it seems like it's curing the symptoms.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 06:13 - 01 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

When did you last change the oil?

My Keeway had minimal miles and had a horrible clutch judder... was like it was spinning at half speed then a sudden crunch. Chain was slack and oil was essentially tar Rolling Eyes
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phlegmatical
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 25 Nov 2013
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PostPosted: 07:01 - 01 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Don't piss about with the mixture just yet. It doesn't even fit the symptoms if they are being described correctly. Taking them at face value, your problem seems to lie with the clutch. A better description of the symptoms is required.

This is a manual clutch bike - right? Yes

You're starting it up on choke with the oil cold and riding away normally. do you ride gently when it's cold or do you set off at your normal pace? I don't have to use choke really. Starts first time then I leave it running for 5 mins or so while I move the car and get helmet on etc then drive off normally and it is fine

How does the bike run on choke? Does it pull well or is it a bit lackluster?the bike won't run on choke it only helps it start then choke straight off and bike will idle fine. I was told this is normal?

How long from starting cold do you suffer the problem? Is It as soon as the choke comes off? my drive to work is about 5 miles and it is just as I almost get to work the problem starts

Once the choke comes off does it pull forwards but slip when you apply throttle or does it just not move at all?again it will not run on full choke. It will run on half choke but not for long. It has started all through winter without any choke at all so I never use it. I think its only needed iy twice

Revving it until it engages is a very poor idea. It'll cause damage and lots of wear and contaminate the oil. Try to avoid this course of action even if it seems like it's curing the symptoms.




I was told not to change the oil until it has reached 1000 miles so has never been changed. Would it be worth doing now then? Chain was slack when I got the bike but I have adjusted that and asked the dealer to check it when it went in for 300 mile service and that's all fine
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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 07:16 - 01 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

From new, I'd do it at 100, 250, 500 and 1000 at the minimum. Doesn't need to be high quality, standard 10w40 from Tesco would be fine.

I'd do it now.
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phlegmatical
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Joined: 25 Nov 2013
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PostPosted: 08:30 - 01 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
From new, I'd do it at 100, 250, 500 and 1000 at the minimum. Doesn't need to be high quality, standard 10w40 from Tesco would be fine.

I'd do it now.


Is it simple to do? Never done an oil change myself!
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P.
Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 08:33 - 01 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is simple as long as you take it slow and read before you do it Thumbs Up
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 09:44 - 01 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

So it's a manual clutch bike that rides fine for 5 miles then the clutch refuses to engage without a fight? Most unusual. Change the oil first, use medium quality semi synth 10w30 or whatever grade is recommended. See if the problem persists. The most important thing about changing your oil is to make sure you don't over tighten the sump plug.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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phlegmatical
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 25 Nov 2013
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PostPosted: 10:11 - 01 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
So it's a manual clutch bike that rides fine for 5 miles then the clutch refuses to engage without a fight? Most unusual. Change the oil first, use medium quality semi synth 10w30 or whatever grade is recommended. See if the problem persists. The most important thing about changing your oil is to make sure you don't over tighten the sump plug.


Unless I'm misunderstanding the term engage the problem isn't with it engaging. It pulls in fine and stops with no issues it is when pull away and release the clutch I have the issue.

Best way I can explain it is that it feels like I'm trying to pull off in 2nd or 3rd gear, nothing there then it moves.

Again I may be misunderstanding what you mean by clutch engaging so sorry if I am!
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Aff
World Chat Champion



Joined: 05 May 2011
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PostPosted: 10:48 - 01 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

phlegmatical wrote:


Unless I'm misunderstanding the term engage the problem isn't with it engaging. It pulls in fine and stops with no issues it is when pull away and release the clutch I have the issue.

Best way I can explain it is that it feels like I'm trying to pull off in 2nd or 3rd gear, nothing there then it moves.

Again I may be misunderstanding what you mean by clutch engaging so sorry if I am!


When you pull the clutch lever you disengage the clutch.

Letting the lever out is when you're engaging the clutch.
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phlegmatical
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 25 Nov 2013
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PostPosted: 10:57 - 01 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aff wrote:


When you pull the clutch lever you disengage the clutch.

Letting the lever out is when you're engaging the clutch.


Apologies Pete! Silence Silence

I've just watched a video on YouTube on how to do an oil change and all they did was unscrew the bolt at the bottom, let it drain, replace the bolt and re fill. Is it really that simple or is there anything else I need to do? I'll pick up some 10 40 4 stroke oil on my way home tonight. Part synthetic?
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phlegmatical
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 25 Nov 2013
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PostPosted: 18:57 - 02 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I did an oil change and cleaned the filter out. Easier than I thought it would be!

Made no difference though!! Got the bike booked in at the dealers in a couple of weeks so see what happens then!
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Pete.
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Joined: 22 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 19:23 - 02 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

As I've said so many times before, if you put your location in your profile you might find someone close by who could take a look.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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phlegmatical
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 25 Nov 2013
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PostPosted: 20:47 - 02 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
As I've said so many times before, if you put your location in your profile you might find someone close by who could take a look.


Leicester Thumbs Up
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CestrianX
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 08 Nov 2010
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PostPosted: 22:08 - 02 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably mentioned by someone else but is 10/40 semi-synthetic oil for a car suitable for your bike? Car oil has extra additives that make it extra slippery and so NOT suitable for a bike's wet clutch.
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