Kawasaki kmx 125

[HardDriver]

Hi, I want to buy this model bike. What are you thinking about him? Do it broke a lot? What about power in kw? How much in restricted? How much kw do you get if you de-restricted? Broke often when de-restricted? What about his top speed when it is in restricted mode and when it is de-restricted. What about suspension? Good for off road ant travelling? What about fuel consumption? It's enough powerful to ride in offroad? Have problems, that most kmx have? I think you get it what I want, thanks for answers. Also I'm searching service or repair manual (service better). What about electronic, didn't broke? Have any power valve like dt or some kinda tricks? Hard to get body or engine parts? Is it expensive? Fast in (0-100km/h?) How much in s don't know? What to watch when you buy this bike?

THANKS FOR YOUR TIME AND ANSWERS. I WILL BE VERY GRATEFUL.

[stevo as b4]

A lot of questions!

Firstly the newest KMX125's are from 2002, maybe a few sold into 2003. They are a comparable 125cc 2stroke trail bike with the likes of the excellent DT125R and the rare Suzuki TS125R. They would really not be much different on the road to even an Aprilia RX125 or Husqvarna WRE125, but newer more competition orientated bikes like these are better off road with a stronger chassis, better quality longer travel suspension etc.

My first advice with buying any 125cc trail bike is buy on condition not model. Also if you want a clean tidy bike with good plastics and cosmetics, get the best you can find, as replacement plastics/panels are often expensive and hard to find for 2stroke 125's that have been out of production 10years or more.

The KMX is a fairly robust reliable bike, with a decent engine that is not too demanding of maintenance, and is similar to the other Japanese 125's in that respect. I'd be expecting the motor to go around 10-15'000miles between top end re-builds depending on how you treat it. Restricted power is 9KW, and un-restricted is 18KW. De-restriction is a simple process compared to 20003> DT125R's etc.

Top speed on std gearing is 80mph, but if used on the road only a 15t front sprocket is a good mod to drop the revs and gain 4-5mph top speed, and make the gears a touch longer too.

The suspension on the later ones has a damping adjustment on the rear shock, and the std suspension is ok for trail riding, or playing around in woods or fields. It's not really up to being blasted around MX tracks, the KDX125 would be better for more serious off road use, or a KTM, or Husqvarna enduro derived bike.

40mpg is about the average fuel consumption. You'd be lucky to get more than 45mpg at best.

There's not many common faults or problems specific to KMX's, but things like checking the alloy wheel rims for corrosion is important. The sidestand cut out switch can play up, but it can be removed easily. The KIPS powervalve is generally reliable, but can fail if it gets too gunged up with carbon. If it does fail, it's usually snapped spindles on the valves themselves, but failure won't cause engine damage like the Suzuki ATEC system.

Part availability is good mechanically, but plastics and cosmetic parts are getting harder to find, and new bits are expensive. Like the DT125R thousands of KMX's were sold over a span of 16-20years, so second hand parts are never far away on Ebay etc.

Good KMX's are maybe starting to go up in price, as 2stroke 125's are getting a bit rare these days and a nice one is hard to find now. Project bikes should cost £400-1000 maximum, and a tidy one £200-400 more maybe.

Performance wise the bike was tested at 0-400m in 16.6sec@76.2mph. I'd expect the 0-100kmh time to be around 8seconds in 18KW form.

The only really important thing to check when buying one, is to make sure it's a legit bike and has not been stolen. A lot of KMX's and DT125R's etc will have been, and making sure you have the correct frame number's, log book and keys is very important.

After that it comes down to condition and how it's been looked after, along with how nice you want it cosmetically? Any tatty bike will cost a lot more to make look smart, than buying a tidy one with clean not scuffed and matched panels etc. Avoid anything that's been used as a field bike and has no electrics fitted unless you want a lot of work.

Also expect any hard used example to have worn out suspension by now, the rear shock on many will be scrap, and the Uni track linkage bearings wear out and seize on neglected bikes. New bearings and seals to re-build the rear end are over £120.

Lastly buy on condition, and not the model. The KMX, MTX, TS125R DT125R etc etc are all pretty similar in spec and performance, so which you get makes little odds really, but a nice example of any will still be a good fun bike!

[HardDriver]

Hey, really thanks for your long post about this bike. Now, I know more about it. But I have some questions about some parts in the texts, because I can't really understand what does that mean .

1. Aprillia rx 125 or husqwarna wre 125 suspension in road will be practical as dt, kmx ant that type bikes, but in offroad wre and rx will be better?

2. Is it true, what kmx in de-restricted status can broke a lot and engine is not reliable at all?

3. If you want to de-restric, what should I do to dot that?

4. to go around 10-15'000miles between top end re-builds depending on how you treat it. You mean, when you change pistons, rings, finger, cylinder? Is kmx cylinder is made of aluminum? Is it true, that 2 stroke bikes (whic depend on kms or miles) acceleration is getting slower and slower, you get power less and less?

5. What do you mean damping adjustion on the rear shock? Later ones, 1999, 1997, 2000 don't have it? Also, if I ride on mx tracks I just fell not comfortable or I will be killing my suspension ?

6. Okey, now the hardest part, the sidestand cut out switch can play up, but it can be removed easily. I don't get what you mean. Could you explain more?

7. Too gunged up with carbon? That means powervalve getting polute by carbon and other materials (which come from engine work). How do you stop that? Is that affecting aceleration or power? Maybe need to ride slower to stop that.

8. Snapped spindles on the valves themselves? 2t stroke have valves? What does that mean "snapped spindles"? It just kips clean by himself? Don't need to do anything? It's really confusing . In dt it's just powervalve, I think a bit simpler.

9. Uni track linkage bearings. Is that front fork or rear shock you talking? How to know, that suspension is dead? Because I think I'm gonna buy 1997 or 1999, so what is really good stuff. Need to know more about that uni track and those linkage bearings, also seals.

Thanks, also, maybe you know who have service manual, I want to watch a bit . REALLY THANKS. I can't believed how one man knows so much . You like some kinda motorcycle wisard.

[dangerousdave]

[Boxing]

The KDX is a faster model. The engine is supposedly a KX 125 engine, with a different barrel. So I read on a forum anyway, maybe someone could confirm if this is true or not?

[HardDriver]

I get it, thanks for your help. But still, have some questions.

Then you reach 10-15 thousands miles, what happens to the bike? It just get slower and less powerful? Engine is hard to start? Why do we need to do re-builds?

Also, what is what sidestand cut out and so one, I don't understand what is that? Don't know who mean that words? Could explain in simple words?

Also, how much kawasaki kmx 125 should be "okey" to ride, not to killing bike, (km/h)? How much? Also, what happens when powervalve just become filty with all these carbons?

Also, what gear oil and motor oil should I put, bike is 1997, maybe full synthetic, but is not cheap.

Also, I try to explain as far as I can. So, when you put 1st gear from neutral, don't exemt the clutch, don't get bike, just make 1st gear and so, bike's engine got off? Whats wrong with clutch or bike? Is this normal think? ALSO PLEASE, WHO HAVE MANUAL SERVICE FOR KAWASAKI KMX 125 or KNOW WHO HAVE PLEASE SHARE, I WOULD BE REALLY REALLY GRATEFUL.


Also, it's true, that if your battery is not dead, but kinda bad, in kmw 125 lights are bad (light is small and so one), what about generation, shouldn't generator give a light enough power, not just a battery?

[dangerousdave]

A rebuild is good at 10-15, 000 miles, as they often have wear to the piston and cylinder at these miles.

There may be a rattle from the engine, this is a sign that a rebuild is needed

What happens to the engine at 10-15k? It may loose some power, yes. It may be rattling or making other noises.

However if the bike is ridden hard, it may rattle and loose power after 4,000 miles or less.
____________________
1988 Kawasaki KMX 200

Previous: Yamaha YZF1000, ZZR600, KMX200, DT50, KX80, CG125, PF50

[stevo as b4]

[HardDriver]

stevo, hi, could you answer my other questios. I would be really grateful. Thanks.

[dangerousdave]

[HardDriver]

Stand is down, you mean that metal think, which we put to hold the bike on the ground? Ohh thanks. Also about that battery, it's important to light yes, so is battery is kidna bad, when your light is smaller and weaker too?

About that more. When you hold the clutch and with foot make a 1st gear, to ride from spot. You don't give motor a rpm or relieve clutch, why the bike engine getting off or he just move for no reason and then engine off? It looks like clutch is slipping or that kinda shit, what should I do to fix that?

[dangerousdave]

[dangerousdave]

[HardDriver]

[HardDriver]

No one know that? Please answer these answers, would be very grateful.

[stevo as b4]

The info you need is easily found TBH.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=293265

Engine oil for any liquid cooled modern stroke should really be a fully synthetic 2stroke oil of a non pre-mix only type if your running autolube? If pre-mix then it does not matter on which kind of oil you use, but a thick pre-mix only oil will not flow well enough to work in an autolube system.

Are you dead set on a KMX by the way?
There is still a fair choice of secondhand 2stroke 125's in good condition, but with them all being less common now, I really would buy whichever one was cleanest in the style of bike you want?

In other European countries things may be different, but in mainland Europe there is plenty of bikes around, and in some countries like Italy, you will still find quite a few decent home market bikes, which would be just as good as anything else, spare parts allowing?

[HardDriver]

You see stevo, that kmx which I found, was the cleanest bike in my country from 125 class, so it's my only option with those minor defects, batery and clutch. Also, should bike kmx 125 2 stroke when you start the engine with kickstarter need give a little gas? Because without gas I thinks it's barely start. Anyone know with that and battery and clutch, It would be all from my, thanks for your wisdom guys.

[dangerousdave]

[HardDriver]

Oh, I get it. With choke should need gas or not? Also, is it bad to start engine without choke? And what about battery and clutch, really no one know? Or I don't now how to say correctly?

[dangerousdave]

[HardDriver]

And if you do, that's wrong. I don't get is start engine with little gas is bad or wrong?

Stand is down, you mean that metal think, which we put to hold the bike on the ground? Ohh thanks. Also about that battery, it's important to light yes, so is battery is kidna bad, when your light is smaller and weaker too?

About that more. When you hold the clutch and with foot make a 1st gear, to ride from spot. You don't give motor a rpm or relieve clutch, why the bike engine getting off or he just move for no reason and then engine off? It looks like clutch is slipping or that kinda shit, what should I do to fix that?

Thats about clutch ant battery.

[dangerousdave]

Starting with "choke" is not bad or wrong. no. It is totally normal.

If the lights are dim then you may need to replace battery. However, it may be that the battery is not charging, which could mean the regulator/ rectifier is faulty.

If you have problems with the clutch slipping then you may need to overhaul the clutch. It's usually worn plates and springs out of tolerance.

Occasionally the clutch basket (which holds the clutch plates) becomes worn itself. This is not.so straightforward to repair as the basket is expensive from Kawasaki, if you can find one. Most of the secondhand ones are well worn now.
____________________
1988 Kawasaki KMX 200

Previous: Yamaha YZF1000, ZZR600, KMX200, DT50, KX80, CG125, PF50

[HardDriver]

Hi, I want to know more, how to know when your bike is enough warmed to drive in high rpms and so one? How to know? When I'm start the engine, i'm like 2-3 minutes don't ride, when ride in little rpm, but maybe it's to much warming .

Also, stevo b4 said, that for modern bikes need fully synthetic, but what about my kmx? it have 1992 year engine, it's still modern ? But I must say, that the engine is in pretty good condition, piston and so one is like new. So I don't want to harm my bike, what should I do?

Also, when need to use choke? Because I don't know it's really working in my bike. It's really confusing in kmx, maybe it's broken.

I'm talking about kmx 125

[_Iain_]

[HardDriver]