front brake a bit sharp

[Pol Anorl]

front brake on my fazer 600 is pretty damn sharp, its either no brakes or full brakes which hurts when my man berries kiss the tank

Any ideas why?

i have adjustable levers but they don't do a lot, plenty of pressure on the lever.
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[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

Don't pull so hard?

I heard a little bit of WD40 on the disks would work well.

Grip the tank more with your knees to stop unwanted man berries/tank interface.
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[Pol Anorl]

there is no too hard lol, its tiny bit of movement and nothing nothing nothing STOP!
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[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

[Pol Anorl]

the pads are decent! £24 each
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[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

[_Iain_]

[el_oso]

Sounds like there is a huge amount of dirt in the caliper/lines/master cylinder. Depending on how mechanically inclined you are full strip, clean and blow through with compressed air. On my thundercat there was a huge amount of dirt in the master cylinder which led to very sharp brakes, either on/off.
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[Pol Anorl]

[RhynoCZ]

[Teflon-Mike]

So you have just fitted new pads?
How far out were the pistons with the old ones in?
How shitted were they?
How much crap have you shoved back in the caliper, when you pushed piston's back in to get the new pads in?
If the pistons are shitted up having been stuck out in the elements for gawd knows how long; then get poked back in side, taking crap with them, two or three things happen;
1) pistons loath to move when you first start braking... 'stiction', bit like pre-load on suspension, means you have to put a certain force on the piston to get it to move against the disc... that then sets the 'minimum' braking force... and you get a sharp take up all or nothig feel from it.
2) Stiction will be increased, cos you have seals rubbing on crudded up 'rough' portion of the piston that was out in the elements.... If a floating caliper (dont think blue-spots are though) again, you get stiction on the float-pins, and again, lack of lube and or crud will increase how much force you have to apply before the brakes take up, and give braking.
3) Deformation of the seals, the square section sort of trapezoiding, the one face in contact with the piston dragged out with it, the parallel face staying in the groove, is all that 'returns' the piston after you relieve braking pressure. If you have dragged a load of crap into the seal rebates, then they don't have the room to flex, and the piston wont be retuned as far, reducing running clearance, again, causing a sharp take-up, also causing more 'stiction' as the piston is being pressed through the seal more to reach the pad, as seal isn't moving so far, and or, crud increases 'stiffness' of the rubber.

MOST BRAKE FAILURES OCCUR AFTER PAD CHANGES for these sorts of reasons, so personally, I would back up, revisit what you done, pop the new pads, check you haven't glazed them braking too hard on a new unbroken pad, then look at the pistons and seals, with a big bowl of soapy water and a toothbrush to clean the piston seals areas; pump pistons out, look at surfaces, and possibly, overhaul the callipers if at all 'iffy'. Possibly rough up the pad surface with coarse sand-paper if they have been glazed.

Beyond that, if brakes good... then you have either got a soft race or sports pad in there, that's not so ideal for road use; or it's your 'feel' on the controls, as others have suggested.
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[temeluchus]

chuck in GG pads instead of HH.
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[RhynoCZ]

[talkToTheHat]

sintered brake pads transmit much more heat to the callipers than organic or ceramic pads as they are significantly more thermally conductive. This is why they fade less and do worse things to your brake fluid.

Larger surface area or thinner (more worn) pads will transfer heat more rapidly.

Bigger callipers will take longer to heat up, but will have more surface area meaning they exchange heat with the air faster. Also depends on surface treatment, anodised parts will exchange heat better than brakes with half an inch of paint on them.
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[G]

Yamaha typically makes pretty sharp brakes.

An R6 with braided hoses would stoppy with your little finger easily if desired - only a few mm of travel to VERY hard braking.

Never found it to be a problem because I can modulate the force in my right hand .

But yes, you could always get some poorly performing pads if you have potato-hand-sydrome .

[Pol Anorl]

Issue appears to be with the lever :S

when riding to the mot yesterday id put my fingers on and around the lever when braking and pulled the lever up aswell as in and i had progressive braking, but just pulling it in whilst the lever is in the middle its all or nothing so something may be catching.
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Jewlio Iglesias: You live in Liverpool - Chances are, the front door has already been kicked off the hinges

[Kickstart]

Hi

Does the lever move smoothly? Check where the lever touches the piston in the master cylinder. Could be the lever is jumping across / into a hole in the end of the piston.

All the best

Keith
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[biggeeman]

I have shite pads if u want them think weetabix make them.
It's for the Yamaha r6 fz1 r1 caliper that common one seriously u can have them full of meat sumomoto I believe they are think they stock Yamaha issue pads? You can have them for free
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[Pol Anorl]

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

[Pol Anorl]

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

[Robby]

If the caliper pistons are binding due to corrosion you can get your problem. Usually makes the brakes feel wooden, with no feel. Pulling the level a small way exerts a small force, which won't overcome the binding. A big pull exerts a big force, which overcomes the binding and brings the brakes on hard.

Pop out the pistons, remove the seals, scrape out the corrosion from behind the seals.

Could also be down to worn sliding pins. The pads get stuck in a notch on the pin, it takes a big force to move them.

[Pol Anorl]

definitely still the lever
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[_Iain_]