06 r6 brake fade

[biggeeman]

Hi 2006 r6 having brake fade probs wen hot

I have galfer steel lines new crush washers etc
Rbf 600 fluid
Sbs race pads
Vacuum bled twice now
Real pazzo levers

But still getting brake wen at track or even street could I still have
Air in the system?
Any help would be great.
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[MarJay]

Replace the fluid.
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.

[biggeeman]

[MarJay]

[biggeeman]

Hi,
No sure mate if its 5.1 its motul rbf 600 supposedly the bees knees stuff.
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[Aff]

Under what conditions you getting the fade?

How much do your weigh?
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Current Bikes:Honda 929RR Fireblade, Honda CD200 Benly (Project), Stomp Z2 140
Electric Bike Project

[biggeeman]

[Aff]

How do the discs look? Show any bluing? Glazing?

Still definitely worth putting new fluid in the and bleeding properly.
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Current Bikes:Honda 929RR Fireblade, Honda CD200 Benly (Project), Stomp Z2 140
Electric Bike Project

[Copycat73]

"Racing Brake Fluid 600
Avoid mixing with polyglycols based brake fluid with lower performances.
Do not mix with silicone (DOT 5 silicone base) or mineral base fluids (LHM)."



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Whatever I post I have no citation and no intention of providing one..
caveat emptor

[biggeeman]

[_Iain_]

Swap brakes with Dumball.

He has good brakes that he wants to be shit, you have shit brakes you want to be good.

£profit?
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Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

[Robby]

If the fluid isn't the problem, then my next thought is heat. You're getting too much of it into the system, and not enough out.

Are the pads that you're using meant to go with a different sort of brake disc? Did you omit any springs or shims when fitting them? Race pads are designed to avoid brake fade at high temp, with the downside of reduced performance at low temp. The issue could be that the brakes want to be at a higher temperature than the fluid is happy with, or the disk isn't dispersing the heat.

The alternative is a sticky piston in a caliper making a pad drag on a disc. This makes heat at all times, including when you're off the brakes and they should be cooling down.

My final thought would have been dodgy fake pazzo levers holding the brakes a little bit on all the time, but you ruled that out in the original post.

[biggeeman]

No nothing has been left out pins plates etc
The pads do work with the discs my mate has r1 on same setup he doesn't get fade.

I put the bike on a paddock and span the wheel 1 to 2 turns which I believe is correct plus I let a little fluid out the reservoir to ease the pressure as such.

I've had that dodgy lever issue before with a clutch my fz1 had Chinese levers after a track session, I couldn't move the clutch stripped the thing to bits new cable new clutch plates and engine oil turned out to be the lever so always buy the real McCoy now lol.
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[Rockhopper]

Explain exactly what your symptoms are. A spongy lever is not brake fade for example.

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

[biggeeman]

[_Iain_]

[MarJay]

[biggeeman]

I've put new fluid in today putoline race dot 4. lever feels no different cold but it wouldn't.. will try to get a blast around over the weekend as it's pissing the now.

Spoke to a bike mechanic today whilst getting fluid he reckons brake discs are fookt lol I get a good 2/3 spins on the paddock as it should with no evidence of a warp disc, brakes are a nightmare. I'll report back once I get a chance to nip out.
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[_Iain_]

If the discs are worn then you'd pump the pads a bit extra to get them to touch the disc and that'd be that.

If the discs are warped, the lever would pulse.

I can't see any situation where the disc getting hot and the metal expanding would make a brake feel spongy?

If the fluid is boiling (water contamination) then as the brakes get hot, the water in the fluid is boiling up, making steam and that little pocket of steam will have the same effect as air in your brakes causing the lever to drop in to the bar.

When you say put new fluid in, did you drain ALL the old fluid out and flush the system through, or just squirt a bit out then pour new stuff in?

At this stage I'd be removing the M/C, Calipers & lines, cleaning them all with brake cleaner internally, then re-assembling & bleeding with fresh fluid. Plutoline, whatever floats your boat. I personally use Carplan stuff from tesco as it's what's in my toolbox...the flashiest brand name on the bottle isn't going to help at all if it's being mixed with knackered fluid
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Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

[iooi]

Seal on the piston in master cylinder could be worn. Or there is some crap in the bottom.

I would taken the brake lines off and let all the fluid drain out and start from scratch again.
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Just because my bike was A DIVVY, does not mean i am......

[biggeeman]

Fluid in from an empty system, as empty as I could get it
See what happens when I get a chance to go out.

If this doesn't work may replace all the seals calliper and m/c. Bikes just turned 20k probably likely seal are fookt now.
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[orac]

er, didnt r6 from 2004 on wards a get recall due to front master cylinder issues causing something along thses lines.

I would be tempted to swap out the master cylinder and see if the that helps

Edit:
https://www.motohouston.com/forums/showthread.php?t=269853
it seems so, i can only find us refrence to it. maybe worth a visit to your dealer and ask them to check things over and make sure yout didnt miss the recall if there was one in the uk

MCN covered it:-
https://www.motorcyclenews.com/mcn/news/newsresults/general-news/2013/october/oct1813-massive-suzuki-gsx-r-recall/
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"with nothing left to lose, there is everything to gain. It's not the size of the dog in the fight, it's the size of the fight in the dog"

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

[biggeeman]

Yeah it's not a gsxr, tbh i think It is the m/c I nearly get it to touch the bars even when cold, after a good bleed. I thinks there's play in the m/c can anyone else get there's to the bar cold and survive a track day?
With little fade?
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