New build won't boot, pulling my fucking hair out UPDATE PG3

[sabian92]

Hi all,

Recently put this together as I was getting bored with console gaming.

I replaced the motherboard I had originally (MSI Z97 GD65) with the gigabyte one because I wanted to hackintosh but the MSI board isn't compatible. But that being said, I know everything works. The only thing that's changed is the motherboard.

I got the first one, got my CPU, CPU cooler, RAM and a SSD plugged in with an HDMI lead to my monitor and it booted but displayed nothing on the monitor. No BIOS, nada. Kept saying "Checking Signal" or some shit. Eventually the monitor goes into standby because there's no signal to it, and I've tried several HDMI cables so I know it isn't that.

Thought the board was shagged so returned it, got another one that's just arrived. Same issue. Surely I can't be that daft that can I?

Cheers.

Build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£155.94 @ Scan.co.uk)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler (£48.79 @ CCL Computers)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£128.96 @ PC World Business)
Memory: Kingston Fury Red Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£60.11 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£83.23 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£83.23 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£55.60 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 770 2GB WINDFORCE Video Card (£229.87 @ Scan.co.uk)
Case: NZXT Switch 810 (White) ATX Full Tower Case (£109.32 @ Scan.co.uk)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 660W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£114.19 @ Scan.co.uk)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-14 DVD/CD Writer (£11.21 @ Aria PC)
Monitor: LG 27MP65HQ 60Hz 27.0" Monitor (£202.13 @ Amazon UK)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140mm Fan (£17.80 @ Ebuyer)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140mm Fan (£17.80 @ Ebuyer)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140mm Fan (£17.80 @ Ebuyer)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140mm Fan (£17.80 @ Ebuyer)
Other: Logitech M510 Wireless Mouse (£20.00)
Other: Logitech K270 Wireless Keyboard (£20.00)
Other: AKG K451 (£50.00)
Other: Logitech G27 (£187.50)
Total: £1631.28
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-08-15 11:48 BST+0100

[MarkJ]

Does your monitor have an input selection button? The ones at work we have to manually cycle between DVI or VGA depending on what cable the PC uses, the monitor won't automatically choose what input to use. Have a look in the monitor menu and see if you can force it to use the HDMI input.

[P.addy]

I know you WANT HDMI but have you tried DVI/VGA at all...?

[chris-red]

Do you hear the post beep?

Try the select input thing as above.

Failing that remove the SSD all all but 1 stick of RAM, if still no joy switch the sticks.

You have got the ram in the Correct clots haven't you? Mine has 6 slots and you must put the sticks in specific slots depending on how many you have.

Failing that try pluging in your GFX card too.
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[wytco0]

Process of elimination, its a fairly complex build, pull everything you can down to minimum needed to boot. If the mobo has bulit in VGA try and use that and disconnect the graphics card as well. Use the minimum memory the mobo will handle (some insist on matched pairs etc)

Try and use a wired keyboard and mouse if you can.

When you can get it to boot reconnect bits one by one.

Good luck its probably something trivial.
____________________
current bike: 2014 Kawasaki ER-6f

[sabian92]

[t121anf]

Related?

https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/719280/monitor-losing-signal-before-welcome-screen/

[t121anf]

Oh hang on, i missed you have a Graphics Card installed to.

the bios is set by default to the onboard only, have you change it yet?

[chris-red]

[sabian92]

[chris-red]

[sabian92]

[chris-red]

[chris-red]

I'd get the speaker to check for a beep code and try a different PSU before changing memory, the memory might not the issue, the Vendor list isn't definitive.
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[chris-red]

I'd get the speaker to check for a beep code and try a different PSU before changing memory, the memory might not the issue, the Vendor list isn't definitive.
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[sabian92]

[Jayy]

Pretty bizzare that two boards are doing the same thing. I would say you can safely eliminate the board, unless you've been extremely unlucky to get two fucked boards.

Next step I would be looking at the RAM / PSU. I've had faulty sticks cause a total non boot on the PC and also had faulty PSUs that have caused non boots.

If you've eliminated the monitor by checking it on a laptop and it came on straight away, it could be that fact you're using HDMI and not DVI?

You can't even see the BIOS though to check, can you?

[Seb]

Quick and simple test to get you pointed in the right direction.

Turn it on, give it 10 seconds, tap the power button again.

Does it switch off?

If it stays on then it's not posting, start looking at ram/expansion cards, can also simply be a duff motherboard.

If it switches off on the button, it's posting but you've got a video issue.
____________________
2010 Triumph 1050 Sprint ST

[Ste]

[Copycat73]

have you took the insulation sticky off the bios battery ?
____________________
Whatever I post I have no citation and no intention of providing one..
caveat emptor

[sabian92]

[el_oso]

It would be quite rare/unusual for RAM to not be compatible, unless it is some super duper high speed overclocked RAM. Just because it's not on the approved list doesn't mean it's not going to work, just means they haven't tested it.

If you haven't already I would be taking everything apart and starting again. Have you actually checked what configuration the RAM needs to go in. Some motherboards will only work with a pair of RAM sticks in channel 1 or whatever.

Ditch the HDMI for now, use VGA, it's a much safer option and go grab a speaker.
____________________
Duke 390
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Car: Jeep Wrangler 4.0L

[Seb]

[bugeye_bob]

new PC speakers look like this
https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzcyWDg3Mg==/z/dmsAAOxyn~pR2EoL/$(KGrHqZ,!qwFG7I4FHeHBR2EoLpvYQ~~60_35.JPG

[CaNsA]

Do you get anything displaying on the LED code panel thing on the motherboard next to the ram slots?