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Tips on how to get the smoothest gear changes

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rideslikean00...
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PostPosted: 15:55 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Tips on how to get the smoothest gear changes Reply with quote

So I have my XJ-6. Love it. Very manageable bike with enough power to be fun.

But I still have trouble getting smooth gear changes every time, especially with a pillion. I can do it well with gentler acceleration but it seems when I'm really opening the throttle and changing I've not got enough finesse to provide an easy transition up and down the box. I can preload the gear and let it slide in but it seems like I'm off the throttle too long this way.

It's obviously a learning curve and I'm all for ever improving my riding technique, so what tips can you throw my way?
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 15:58 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Throttle off very slightly after pulling in the clutch - works better for me two up. Worth a try anyway.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've found with a few months practice I am far smoother without using the clutch on the way up (Above second). I still use it most of the time out of sheer habit, but occasionally I'll throw in a completely seamless clutchless shift like a boss.
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TheArchitect
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PostPosted: 16:02 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could be a combination of staying off the throttle too long and dumping the clutch too hard in too lower rev.

I guess every bike has it's sweet spot in the rev range for smooth shifts. I recently found mine after a track day.

sorry not much in the way of tips!
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wr6133
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PostPosted: 16:10 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try to match the revs to the speed you are going and shift a bit earlier than if you were alone. The pillion themselves can help too an experienced/decent one will know when you are going to shift/accelerate/slow down and will react accordingly, a crap or inexperienced one will just cling on for dear life and no matter how smooth you are helmets will bump.
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grr666
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PostPosted: 16:20 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

wr6133 wrote:
no matter how smooth you are helmets will bump.

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faster_than_the_bus
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PostPosted: 00:43 - 30 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

This guy makes good videos.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIhycth8msU&list=UU7cTUIwR1FuvMplHdHNDGug

Link will take you to his gear change vid.
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pig hog
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PostPosted: 17:03 - 30 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm with c_dug. From other threads, it seems to be frowned upon telling this to new riders (though I've been riding less than a year, myself) but I very rarely use the clutch to upshift above 2nd, now.

I used to have the same sort of problem—my shifts were't jerky but I'd sometimes mistime the clutch and rolling off the throttle, so it'd over rev a bit, especially under harder acceleration.

Since I started clutchless shifting (properly), I didn't have that problem and my shifts became much smoother. Plus, adding the clutch back in became much easier because clutchless shifting needs precise timing to work anyway, so I found that it actually improved my gear shifting as a whole—with or without clutch.

I won't recommend that you necessarily go out and do this (but don't let anyone stop you if you do want to) but I tried it and found it worked for me, so there you go.

Obviously, I always use the clutch to shift down, by the way.
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rideslikean00...
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PostPosted: 20:52 - 30 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tried clutchless upshifting with a pillion, I'm a little loose on the timing (I get a little jerkiness) but overall with practice I can tell this is a better way to go for all but first to second. Could potentially be much smoother and requires less time off the throttle to make the changes close to seamless.
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Frog
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PostPosted: 09:45 - 31 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've not tried with a pillion, and it may (I'd guess will) be different for different bikes, but I don't roll off as such, I blip the throttle off.

Not agressively fast, but the same sort of speed you'd lazily blip the throttle if you were at traffic lights.

Not sure if that makes sense, but HTH! Thumbs Up
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Orennayar
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PostPosted: 16:20 - 31 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

For me I found that shifting slightly later at higher rpm helps doing a smooth transition.
Also the gear lever was way to high for me, after adjusting it it was a lot easier to shift gear smoothly and more comfortable too
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John933
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PostPosted: 17:27 - 31 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had that kind of problem with all my bike's. A clunky up and down change. Found out that if you put your foot nearer in to the casing and then roll the rev's off a bit. Get as much of the gear leaver in the fat part of your foot. Then click it up a little slower. Kind's of work's for me. I know it's no racing change, but if your looking for smooth changes. It slow and easy.

Start off clunk. Start the bike up. Let it run for a few second's. Hit the kill switch. Drop it in a gear. Pull in clutch and brake then hit the start button. Work's for me.
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Baffler186
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PostPosted: 12:26 - 01 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always thought my Fazer had a clunky gearbox, as others had reported this as standard. I was advised to change at higher RPM and, whilst that is smoother, it's not always practical, especially when I'm in a bobbing-along-slowly mood. In time I found that I was being too heavy footed with the gear shifter. All mine needs is a gentle click (the same as when you are selecting neutral) and it changes up as smooth as a nut.

This is specific to my bike of course, but it might work for you
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Clutchy
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PostPosted: 12:37 - 01 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I'm full throttle blasting through the gears then it needs to be clutchless IMO


If I'm riding at a normal pace, then I just change gear quickly and quickly return on the throttle, really hard to explain tbh, check your clutch is properly adjusted as well.
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rideslikean00...
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PostPosted: 15:47 - 01 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Baffler186 wrote:
I always thought my Fazer had a clunky gearbox, as others had reported this as standard. I was advised to change at higher RPM and, whilst that is smoother, it's not always practical, especially when I'm in a bobbing-along-slowly mood. In time I found that I was being too heavy footed with the gear shifter. All mine needs is a gentle click (the same as when you are selecting neutral) and it changes up as smooth as a nut.

This is specific to my bike of course, but it might work for you


Well the XJ-6 and Fazer share a fair amount of the same lineage as I understand it, so I think this could apply equally well to both.

Having whacked on some 850+ miles since I got it last Saturday (300 or so for work commute), I have started to get the feel of the gear changes, and a softer action on the gear lever works well. Want to try some more clutch less upshifting for solo rides where I'm more likely to race through the gears too. And get myself back into good habits with the change from first to second - just recently I'm not clutching in/shifting with enough force, keep getting a painful drop to neutral with the attendant horrible sounds when getting back into gear. Other than making me look like an idiot I fear it's bad for the box, and clutch/flywheel replacement ain't cheap!

Other things I want to work on are getting more lean on corners. Feels like I'm not counter steering enough and getting a bit of wobble on the front wheel, end up going from NSL straight line speeds to 40mph on corners I could take faster on my 125. It's all a constant learning curve and I want accuracy as much as I do speed, cos latter without former = straight line hero.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 20:31 - 01 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

wr6133 wrote:
no matter how smooth you are helmets will bump.
Hmmmm... I came back from a few days away in Wales on Friday, with my daughter and camping gear on the back. Four hours in the saddle over 200 miles of fairly busy and bendy A-Roads, and she hat-tapped me maybe three times? And I could have probably avoided those had I not been filtering through the heavier traffic up to round-abouts. It IS possible to be THAT smooth... and its not 'inevitable'.. If we'd been on a sports-bike her head would have been above mine.. had we been on a Gold-Wing, the gap between the arm-chairs would probably have been enough for her to stick her head between her knees without bumping me! So it IS all rather debatable.. main thing though IS, you do have to be smooth, and you DO have to have a 'good' pillion.... and more, a pillion who has trust and confidence in you as a rider. My daughter is pretty bludy great in that respect.... more fool her, some would say, but she's had a lot of practice.

But, the trust and confidence your pillion has in you IS the most important thing, and building that probably as or more important as anything else you can do with the bike.

To that end, pre-ride brief is good, a-n-d... I found having a rider-pillion intercom, with back-ground music helped relax and re-assure 'new' pillions. But not just having it... talking to them... telling them what's going on; asking them if they are still comfy etc.

But, onto the riding.... first clutch-less shifting is a red-herring. Mechanics of clutch-less shift mean IF you can shift reasonably smoothly without the clutch, you could shift even MORE smoothly with it.

Practice was brought into common use by racers, to minimise time 'off-power', but even then, using the clutch they can often access more power reving out and slipping the clutch.

Meanwhile, some bikes are more readily clutchless shifted, others not! I would defy any-one to make a shift, let alone a smooth one, on Snowie's Guzzi, with it's laboriouse and clunky shift mechanism, tall, wide-spaced gears and high-torque low response engine. You HAVE to be slow and deliberate and feed it in smoothly on the clutch on that one.

So, sticking that technique to one side... how to make smooth shifts with a pillion?

Well, first of all, think we've had this discussion before when you were on a tiddler.... don't shift UP, no need shift back DOWN... every up-shift you don't make, then saves two opportunities to loose your smooth. As with advice when tiddling, use revs, not gears, ride for response; avoid 'short shifting'.

Perverse counter-intuitive 'thing' going on when you put a pillion o the back, though; AND tied into this trust/confidence building business; screaming engines tend to make for screaming pillions; we want to keep them calm, so we tend to try and take it easy, and avoid harder acceleration, and higher revs... and consequently 'short shift'... solution... DONT. gentle smooth acceleration, USE the THROTTLE to increase speed at the rate you and pillion are comfy with... that's what it's for...

Thing is, that natural tendancy is not to directly control power with the throttle, but to play 'catch-up and shut-off... you over-open the throttles, let the engine make what power it will, util it finds the power balance, or you are going speed you want, then shut off, to find the balance point. And as a newer rider, you will almost certainly be doing this quite coarsely... BUT, learning to 'hold back' and wind the throttle on gradually, so you are always at or ear the balance point, refining your throttle control is key here, and to an awful lot of riding.

And for the pillion... its the frog in a saucepan syndrome... you don't let them feel the searing acceleration AND the frenzy of revs together, or in a hurry... like chucking them i a pan of already boiling water... you ramp it slowly, letting them get used to the revs... without the surge of acceleration... and without 'jarring' them making a short shift, therefore making opportunity for another jar making a short down-shift... all, as when tiddling trying to avoid higher revs.

Remember, when carrying a pllion you are upping the all-up weight by probably 25% or more, this is when you need the extra power available at higher revs, from lower cogs to get the extra force to make that extra mass move; so shorting your revs, is doubly unhelpful to you.

As for the shifts you do need to make.... make'em slow and deliberate. There's no hurry. Especially if you haven't short shifted, so have to make more shifts than you need and compress them all into less road room. So, make time for your changes.

The extra weight of a pillion means more momentum, AND if you haven't short shifted, and have used the revs, you'll be going faster, so more momentum still, which means you have a lot more 'coast time' when you de-clutch; to make your shift, slow and deliberate, and feed the power back in, matching revs to road speed through the clutch...

And slowing it down, spreading it out damps 'suddenness' are jolts and jars, and so makes it 'smoother', even if its just as clumpy. Make sense?

Use the Revs you Must - its ALL in the throttle control... and you have a clutch for good reason, USE IT..and take it 'easy' slow and deliberate, unhurried, un-panicked, nice calm and confidence inspiring to the pillion.

On which topic, its only been a few weeks since you passed your test, and confidence breeds confidence, but nerves kill all. If you are still a little hesitant and nervous, you will struggle to inspire confidence in your pillion; and it may be a little early for you to be too ambitious.

May be worth 'pretending' you have a pillion and riding as you would for a pillion, when you don't have one, and trying for 'pillion smooth' solo. Other thing you might try 'solo' is bungeeing a big bag on the bunny-seat, with a bit of weight in it... Pillion briefing, I tell'em they are not riders, they is luggage... act like a sack of spuds.... conveniently my local petrol station sell large, 25Kg sacks of spuds.... you need a big cargo net and a couple of hefty bungee cords to strap one to the bunny-seat, BUT they is the almost 'perfect pillion' only about 4-stone, so a pretty 'skinny' pillion, but weight is in right place to emulate a real pillion-bunny... and its only £7 if they fall off, and free chips for all! Laughing

But, practice, practice, practice, for 'smooth' in all things, and it will come with pillions, too.
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wr6133
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PostPosted: 20:39 - 01 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:

you DO have to have a 'good' pillion....


err that's what I said..... if you insist on writing essays at least read what others actually write (concisely) rather than misquote them

wr6133 wrote:

The pillion themselves can help too an experienced/decent one will know when you are going to shift/accelerate/slow down and will react accordingly, a crap or inexperienced one will just cling on for dear life and no matter how smooth you are helmets will bump.
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 20:49 - 01 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

wr6133 wrote:
Teflon-Mike wrote:

you DO have to have a 'good' pillion....


err that's what I said..... if you insist on writing essays at least read what others actually write (concisely) rather than misquote them

wr6133 wrote:

The pillion themselves can help too an experienced/decent one will know when you are going to shift/accelerate/slow down and will react accordingly, a crap or inexperienced one will just cling on for dear life and no matter how smooth you are helmets will bump.


Maybe he's just backing up what others are saying?
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rideslikean00...
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PostPosted: 22:46 - 01 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blurredman wrote:
Maybe he's just backing up what others are saying?


That's what I saw, an elaboration on other stuff already hinted at. It's not reinventing the wheel(s), it's learning how to use them, lot of common ground on the right way to do things to avoid the unpleasant business of binning bikes... Wink
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