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Throttle body position

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Meshuggah
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PostPosted: 09:42 - 14 Sep 2014    Post subject: Throttle body position Reply with quote

Hello everyone,
so I bought this vaccum gauge to check my tbp. when I plug it in this is what happens and I can take any reading.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IjgiZCrnHiY

as usual any help would be much appriociated.
thanks.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 09:46 - 14 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

You gotta tweak the dampers to stop the needles flapping about. They'll snap off like that. Apart from that the balance actually looks pretty good.
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Taught2BCauti...
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PostPosted: 09:49 - 14 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you are trying to do it with the revs too low - hence the fluctuations.

Assuming you have connected the tubes to the inlet stubs correctly, try it again between 1500 and 2000 rpm.

Like this.
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Meshuggah
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PostPosted: 19:56 - 14 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok this is what happened so far:
I've read in the manual that at idle the hg should be 280.
That's not the case. at idle (1320 1380) the gauge shows points into the red zone. Only if I accelerate they go up.
The manual says to not touch the screw number 1 but regulate 2 3 and 4 according to it. that;s what I tried to do at first. Then I thought that n1 may need to be turned to reach 280 at idle. I did it and nothing happened. just a slight change but it still sits in the red zone. Now I have all the 4 screw almost completely turned in. this is what happens
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KbtURzOVEn4

It seems they all move at the same time and with the same amount but I have no idea if it's correct . the red area states : late valve intake, mainfold leak or heat riser.

Any suggestions? Thanks.
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orac
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 14 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

ignore the text on the gauges, all looks fine to me, although 3 and 4 are a bit off imho
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 21:08 - 14 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

orac wrote:
ignore the text on the gauges, all looks fine to me, although 3 and 4 are a bit off imho


This. All you are working towards is th egauges reading the same and a steady idle. Do your gauges not have dampers? They should if you expect to take a steady reading.
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Meshuggah
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PostPosted: 05:48 - 15 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
What's "tbp" Confused


Throttle body positioning. Smile
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Meshuggah
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PostPosted: 05:50 - 15 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
To set them up, you need to find out where no.1 gauge is at a certain engine speed, slightly above tickover is good. Then, replace that gauge with the next one and make sure it's at the same place at those revs. Repeat this procedure for nos. 3 and 4 gauges so you know they're all reading the same. Then stick them all back onto each cylinder and make sure they all move together when you open the throttle.

As above, you will need some sort of baffle to stop the needles flickering about.


Thanks for your info. For tick over point do you mean, the area between the 2 red zones? If so at what rev?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 06:43 - 15 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

The lower the revs when you do the throttle balancing, the closer you'll get them - so long as the throttles aren't worn to the point that the readings shift about a lot when you flcick the throttle.

The numbers are pretty-much meaningless because they are affected by several factors, useful only as a comparative scale so you can get them all the same. That's all you're aiming for really.
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Meshuggah
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PostPosted: 19:34 - 15 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the input everyone. I've resync the TBP while keeping the bike around 3000 rev. They look at the same spot now.
One thing I'm wandering. If the text on the gauge doesn't matter then how do you know when the first cylinder is properly synced?
I mean it could be all the way screwed in or all the way out. How would you know the correct position? (I use number 1 as a guide to sync all the others)
thanks.
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Meshuggah
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PostPosted: 19:53 - 15 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
Meshuggah wrote:

One thing I'm wandering. If the text on the gauge doesn't matter then how do you know when the first cylinder is properly synced?


Synchronised with what? The idea is to get all the carbs, or throttle bodies, synchronised together.

Imagine one person trying to perform synchronised swimming Wink


yes but then if this is the case, let's say i set the n1 all screwed in and sync all the others to it. so now all 4 go nicely sync and the first one is all the way in.
Opposite scenario: I screw n1 all the way out and sync all the 4 . now they are all nicely sync with the first one all the way out.
should there be a difference in the bike performance?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 19:57 - 15 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

All you're trying to achieve is that they all draw the same air in when the throttle is closed against the idle stop. What position the screws are actually in doesn't matter a damn EXCEPT that if you have one screwed against the stop you could well run out of adjustment on one of the others.
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Meshuggah
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 17 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry for my ignorance but I'm learning as I go along. I forgot to mention I have a Power commander 3 installed. Will that make any difference?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:38 - 17 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Meshuggah wrote:
Sorry for my ignorance but I'm learning as I go along. I forgot to mention I have a Power commander 3 installed. Will that make any difference?


Difference to what? To your throttle balance - nope since the PC3 adjusts all the injectors together. If you're messing with your throttles because of poor low-speed running then yeah that could be down to a poorly set up PC3. Could equally be down to bad valve clearances, which ironically can affect your vac readings.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Meshuggah
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 17 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Meshuggah wrote:
Sorry for my ignorance but I'm learning as I go along. I forgot to mention I have a Power commander 3 installed. Will that make any difference?


Difference to what? To your throttle balance - nope since the PC3 adjusts all the injectors together. If you're messing with your throttles because of poor low-speed running then yeah that could be down to a poorly set up PC3. Could equally be down to bad valve clearances, which ironically can affect your vac readings.


ok so what I understand so far. TBP syncs the 4 cylinders to open at the same time together. so no piston gets dragged along.
PC3 sets the mixture of fuel/air (I've mapped it from dynojet website scorpion exhaust and aftermarket air filter.)
Am I correct?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 21:25 - 17 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

TBP is the wrong terminology. I never heard it called that and it will confuse people into thinking you are on about TPS (throttle position sensor).

Throttle balancing is what you're doing. If you had carbs instead of FI it would be carb balancing.

The purpose of throttle balancing is not to make them all open at the same time - they will do that no matter what - but to adjust them to all be open the same AMOUNT and therefore produce a similar sized explosion in each cylinder which in turn will provide a smooth idle. This only really affects idle and off-idle, for wider throttle openings balancing has very little effect.
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