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| Dan125 |
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 Dan125 L Plate Warrior
Joined: 17 Sep 2014 Karma :  
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 Posted: 20:19 - 17 Sep 2014 Post subject: How hard can i rev my new bike? |
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Hello everyone, I have been riding a scooter for the last 3 months, and have never rode a geared bike until yesterday, so please forgive my noobness
So, few questions.. how high can i rev my bike? I bought it new and was told not to go over 5000 for the first 300 miles, but it seems really slow, and even at these revs it makes alot more noise than the scooter, and to me it sounds like I'm over revving it, is this normal? (it's a cbf125)
After its 'broken in' what kind of revs should i be giving it? Will it sound less stressed at higher revs? What happens if I redline it?
Anyway I've got plenty more questions, but I think that's probably enough for now
Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
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| arry |
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 arry Super Spammer
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| FlightRisk |
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 FlightRisk Spanner Monkey

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| arry |
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 arry Super Spammer
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| Rogerborg |
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 Rogerborg nimbA

Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 20:59 - 17 Sep 2014 Post subject: |
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Counterpoint: I would ride it hard, and change the oil at 20 and about 200 miles, as well as checking it regularly. If anything's going to go bang, have it go bang early.
https://i60.tinypic.com/2zgt4dw.jpg ____________________ Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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| arry |
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 arry Super Spammer
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| Barnoe |
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 Barnoe Trackday Trickster

Joined: 17 Aug 2014 Karma :  
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 Posted: 21:28 - 17 Sep 2014 Post subject: |
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Deffo check the oil!!! dont assume the dealer filled it up.
I found out that i was running on half of what it should had
riding below 5000 is a bit low, just dont redline it or like already said ride at high revs for long periods.
around town, you can keep the revs quite low easily.
so stick to towns for a week or 2
I ride over the tops at weekend and you will find your at high revs a lot! (the down side of 125s)
To get up some hills you have no choice but to drop a gear and ride at higher revs sometimes. ____________________ You know you are old when you're told to slow down by your doctor and not the police. |
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| Northern Monkey |
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 Northern Monkey World Chat Champion

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| Rogerborg |
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 Rogerborg nimbA

Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Karma :    
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| arry |
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 arry Super Spammer
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| Wonko The Sane |
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 Wonko The Sane World Chat Champion

Joined: 20 Jan 2013 Karma :   
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 Posted: 22:06 - 17 Sep 2014 Post subject: Re: How hard can i rev my new bike? |
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| Dan125 wrote: |
So, few questions.. how high can i rev my bike? I bought it new and was told not to go over 5000 for the first 300 miles, but it seems really slow, and even at these revs it makes alot more noise than the scooter
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Your scooter has an elf held captive somewhere in the drivetrain that changes gears for you, this is why your scooter doesn't rev too high as the elf is doing his job.
| Quote: | and to me it sounds like I'm over revving it, is this normal? (it's a cbf125)
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The engine is bigger and more exposed, you can hear it better, simple as that. I had the same thing when I switched from a 125 to a 600, bought ear-plugs and everything's happy
| Quote: |
After its 'broken in' what kind of revs should i be giving it? Will it sound less stressed at higher revs? What happens if I redline it?
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However many revs it needs
Probably still sound stressed, it's a small engine, it's designed for it
POWARRRRRRRR - no, seriously it's fine to take an engine to the red-line, don't hold it there if you don't have to (thats why you have a gear box) and don't push it far into the redline but don't be scared to let the thing rev, it wants to. ____________________ Looking to pass your CBT / Bike tests in Bury Lancashire? try www.focusridertraining.co.uk Would recommend.
They're also on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/pages/Focus-Rider-Training/196832923734251 |
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| notbike |
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 notbike World Chat Champion

Joined: 02 Apr 2014 Karma :     
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| stevo as b4 |
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 stevo as b4 World Chat Champion
Joined: 17 Jul 2003 Karma :   
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 Posted: 07:05 - 18 Sep 2014 Post subject: |
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| arry wrote: |
Having seen a few engines done the hard way after 30k use (car, might add for clarity) and having spent time around someone that builds well specced engines, it's not something I'd endorse. Of course there's a lot of factors, but the wear to bores and ovalling of rods was a symptom that kept cropping up. |
What sort of car engines does your friend build and what kinds of specs?
The reason I ask is that it's a whole different can of worms when your building an engine that is far from standard spec internally with different parts and spec of parts to what would be fitted by the OEM.
Also there are quite a few people with hard used competition car engines, where a 30k lifespan with decent performance, good compression and valve sealing would be seen a very good lifespan.
Then there is the factor that many people who have high performance engine builds done, are going to push the engine very hard after spending a lot of money on horsepower, and they may abuse the engine which is different, but still more than likely.
Lastly I've seen and heard of many non std performance engine builds, where premature wear or even failure has occurred, and it's often not due to how the owner treats it, but that the engine was not very expertly built in the first place.
Engine's with badly scuffed expensive forged pistons for example, when the correct piston/bore clearance was not specified, which is often quite different to what is needed with cast pistons on an OEM Factory build, which despite mass production can sadly be far more in tolerance than a badly built performance engine. |
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| Dan125 |
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 Dan125 L Plate Warrior
Joined: 17 Sep 2014 Karma :  
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 Posted: 07:19 - 18 Sep 2014 Post subject: |
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Ok, well thanks for all the advice everyone.
I was unaware that there was an elf inside my scooter lol, hope he's happy with his new owner  |
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| Stil |
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 Stil Derestricted Danger
Joined: 16 Aug 2013 Karma :  
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| Dave70 |
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 Dave70 World Chat Champion

Joined: 20 Jan 2012 Karma :   
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 Posted: 10:18 - 18 Sep 2014 Post subject: |
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| Stil wrote: | how often should you change the oil on a broken in bike? |
Depends on the bike. The user manual will tell you, if you don't have one, look online.
When breaking a new bike in, you will need to change the oil at a much earlier interval than usual, due to the fact that you'll get more crap in the oil as you are wearing the engine in.
My bike, for example, required its first oil change at 600 miles. After that, its regular change is 1,800 miles but, as I said, it depends on the bike. ____________________ There ain't no devil, there's just god when he's drunk.
2012: R125 killed by white van. 2016 R125 killed by 30,000 miles of redline. Current: 2016 Kawasaki ER6f. |
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| Wonko The Sane |
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 Wonko The Sane World Chat Champion

Joined: 20 Jan 2013 Karma :   
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| P. |
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 P. Red Rocket
Joined: 14 Feb 2008 Karma :   
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| Northern Monkey |
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 Northern Monkey World Chat Champion

Joined: 17 Nov 2013 Karma :   
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 Posted: 14:42 - 18 Sep 2014 Post subject: |
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| Stil wrote: | | Northern Monkey wrote: | Used the ride it hard technique with my msx which has a similar engine. Changed oil at 75, 200 and 400 miles. Revved to the redline within 5 minutes of leaving the dealer. |
Why is it you changed the oil so regularly? Is it just because its a new bike, how often should you change the oil on a broken in bike? |
By forcing the running in process to occur more quickly, by riding it hard, the wear which would occur normally over the entire running in process occurs quickly, so the oil needs to be changed more quickly
I used cheap shit asda 10w40 at the 75 and 200 changes, and a fully synthetic oil at 400, as there were no noticeable metal deposits when I dropped the oil at 400 miles
As it's a 125 without oil filter, I'll took it for its first service at 800 miles and I'll change the oil every 600 -800 miles. If it was a larger engine with proper oil filter, I'd just use the manufacturer recommendations after 1000 miles ____________________ Fisty: after polishing the tank with the glistenng beads of sweat from my full hot scrotum, I filled the headrace bearings with 10cc of my manmilk |
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| janner_10 |
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 janner_10 World Chat Champion

Joined: 26 Sep 2011 Karma :     
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| P. |
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 P. Red Rocket
Joined: 14 Feb 2008 Karma :   
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| janner_10 |
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 janner_10 World Chat Champion

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| mentalboy |
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 mentalboy World Chat Champion

Joined: 05 May 2012 Karma :   
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 Posted: 19:30 - 20 Sep 2014 Post subject: |
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| stevo as b4 wrote: | | arry wrote: |
Having seen a few engines done the hard way after 30k use (car, might add for clarity) and having spent time around someone that builds well specced engines, it's not something I'd endorse. Of course there's a lot of factors, but the wear to bores and ovalling of rods was a symptom that kept cropping up. |
What sort of car engines does your friend build and what kinds of specs?
The reason I ask is that it's a whole different can of worms when your building an engine that is far from standard spec internally with different parts and spec of parts to what would be fitted by the OEM.
Also there are quite a few people with hard used competition car engines, where a 30k lifespan with decent performance, good compression and valve sealing would be seen a very good lifespan.
Then there is the factor that many people who have high performance engine builds done, are going to push the engine very hard after spending a lot of money on horsepower, and they may abuse the engine which is different, but still more than likely.
Lastly I've seen and heard of many non std performance engine builds, where premature wear or even failure has occurred, and it's often not due to how the owner treats it, but that the engine was not very expertly built in the first place.
Engine's with badly scuffed expensive forged pistons for example, when the correct piston/bore clearance was not specified, which is often quite different to what is needed with cast pistons on an OEM Factory build, which despite mass production can sadly be far more in tolerance than a badly built performance engine. |
Not performance vehicle related, but there's nothing worse than acquiring a diesel engined vehicle that's been driven slowly by the first owner.
When I used to drive lorries for a rather large courier firm you could always tell the waggons that had been broken in by the old boys, they were totally gutless. The ones that the younger crew had broken in went like shit off a shovel. (No idea what it did for the life of the engines though, when you've got a hectic schedule and a workshop crew of five or six blokes at the depot, it's their problem! )
EDIT: Sorry, back on topic... I ran in my ex-wife's CB125 and ER-5 for her, ignored the manual, ran as I normally would and changed the oil very frequently (just to give you some idea of 'frequently', I change oil between 3 and 4 thousand miles as a matter of course of all my machines, so much, much shorter intervals!!). She had the 125 for two years and the 500 for four, both ran perfectly well (or at least...as well as those models could ever be expected to ). ____________________ Make mine a Corona.
Last edited by mentalboy on 20:15 - 20 Sep 2014; edited 1 time in total |
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| Nobby the Bastard |
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 Nobby the Bastard Harley Gaydar

Joined: 16 Aug 2013 Karma :  
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| Toccs |
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 Toccs Renault 5 Driver

Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Karma :     
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 11 years, 125 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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