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So I did some welding...

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Pete.
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PostPosted: 08:16 - 11 Nov 2014    Post subject: So I did some welding... Reply with quote
I bought a TIG welder about a month ago and been practicing with it never having done any before. One job I've been putting off was welding the end back on my brake pedal because I was told that cast was more tricky to weld than sheet. It was snapped off a while ago and for a year or to I've had a clutch spring post as a pedal end.

So I cleaned it all up and filed the ends flat, clamped it in place on my bench, tacked it on, checked the alignment. Took the plunge and welded it all up. Not so bad I thought and I stood back to admire my handywork......
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Minty
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PostPosted: 08:19 - 11 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
Looks to have a tolerance of more than 4 thou.

Needs moar fishfingers too..
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 08:30 - 11 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
Nice job Thumbs Up

I actually find tig just about the easiest welding medium. I don't for one minute profess to be a welding master (a la 4 thou Laughing ) but I use tig, arc and gas welding with my work and find that really nice to use.

I suppose the big no no for home, and the reason mig is popular is the cost. Gas, filler rods and electrodes aren't cheap, especially for alloys.

I do not like mig!
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Kris
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PostPosted: 08:57 - 11 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
Top job as ever Pete!
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jaxx
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PostPosted: 12:29 - 11 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
Nice job... It just makes it more painful that you're gonna have to cut it off and weld it back on the other side... Laughing
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Musketeer
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PostPosted: 12:41 - 11 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
jaxx wrote:
Nice job... It just makes it more painful that you're gonna have to cut it off and weld it back on the other side... Laughing


Exactly my thoughts Wink

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jaxx
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PostPosted: 13:16 - 11 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
Laughing Y'know, after posting that I had to quickly check Google images to make sure.
Either way, that weld does look good... I'm sure it'll be even better next time... Thumbs Up
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Islander
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PostPosted: 16:22 - 11 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
Just treat it as practice for rewelding it the right way round. Thumbs Up Laughing
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beardface
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PostPosted: 16:35 - 11 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ouch, lol.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 16:35 - 11 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
Been there done that (or similar)
Admiring my handiwork followed by the
"Oh bollocks!" moment.
Ho hum and all that
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Bubbs
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PostPosted: 16:48 - 11 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
jaxx wrote:
Nice job... It just makes it more painful that you're gonna have to cut it off and weld it back on the other side... Laughing


Laughing Laughing Laughing

.............................


Nice weld though... Had you done anything with welding before that? Never tried it myself and would like to give it a crack
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:55 - 11 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
jaxx wrote:
Nice job... It just makes it more painful that you're gonna have to cut it off and weld it back on the other side... Laughing


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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 19:21 - 11 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
any tips on it? Bought myself a parweld lift tig and i cant get on with it.

It seems to constantly blow holes etc. Any idea on the rough settings with thinner metals?
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Aff
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PostPosted: 19:33 - 11 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
mysterious_rider wrote:
any tips on it? Bought myself a parweld lift tig and i cant get on with it.

It seems to constantly blow holes etc. Any idea on the rough settings with thinner metals?


Gonna be a problem when you're doing scratch start, so have no pedal.

Thats why its only really used for heavier stuff.

Scratch start is a different ball game to standard TIG.
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 19:39 - 11 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
i did wonder, I can do it at work a little but at home with my setup no way. Laughing Ah well. It works very well as an arc, and can weld quite small stuff. Nevermind. Laughing
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:37 - 11 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
mysterious_rider wrote:
any tips on it? Bought myself a parweld lift tig and i cant get on with it.

It seems to constantly blow holes etc. Any idea on the rough settings with thinner metals?


Yeah, keep above 2mm thickness for practice. I find ally easier than stainless, I keep touching down the tungsten on stainless a lot and I find it less forgiving than ally if you get the current wrong. One thing I am getting over is trying to weld with too little amps. You worry that it'll blow holes but in reality all you have to do is move faster.

Pedal is fitted now BTW. After my initial moment of pique I just cut it off an dlfipped it over.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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kestrel
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Joined: 04 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: 22:15 - 11 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
Pete. wrote:

Yeah, keep above 2mm thickness for practice. I find ally easier than stainless, I keep touching down the tungsten on stainless a lot and I find it less forgiving than ally if you get the current wrong. One thing I am getting over is trying to weld with too little amps. You worry that it'll blow holes but in reality all you have to do is move faster.

Pedal is fitted now BTW. After my initial moment of pique I just cut it off an dlfipped it over.


You're correct Pete, ally is much more forgiving than stainless as arc length and torch control are not as critical with ally as they are with stainless and carbon steel.
Not sure what torch you're using but if it's a fixed head then the best advice I can give you is to swap it out for a flexi head, something like a WP17 or WP24. Using a flexi head torch allows you to rotate and bend the torch to achieve the correct torch angle without having to place your hand in an awkward position, this will go a long way to improving torch control and reducing the number of touch downs.
Use a short back cap on the torch and cut your tungstens in half and sharpen both ends, if you do touch down it's simply a case of pulling the tungsten out with a pair of long nosed pliers, turning it round and sticking it back in the collet and you're away again. Keep your tungstens SHARP for stainless and arc length as close as possible.
You'll know when you're 'getting there' it's when you spend more time welding than you do sharpening tungstens!
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