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sinedtomuch This post is not being displayed because the poster is banned. Unhide this post / all posts.
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monkeybiker
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PostPosted: 12:54 - 13 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

How old is the battery? Has the bike been unused for a few weeks?

The battery may have been on the way out before you fit the heated grips and now you have them fitted it's just showing up the problem.
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Aff
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PostPosted: 12:55 - 13 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

So this has only happened after fitting the grips?

If yes, then unplug them and see if it happens over the next few days.

If it doesn't just wire them in properly with a relay.

If it does, you probably have a dead battery.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 12:59 - 13 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does sound rather like the battery is dead. Take battery out of bike, charge up and leave for a day or two (if you can make do without using the bike!).

If you have no external draw and the battery is not holding charge then you know it's FUBAR. (You could do this quicker with a load test but method above involves minimal effort!)
Not knowing the age of the battery doesn't help you much but you can consider yourself lucky if you can stretch the average bike battery for three years.

It may just be that your battery was close to giving up when you fitted the grips and the extra direct drawdown has finished it off.

Edit: Immobilisers are a pain in the butt for killing batteries unless you have a good maintenance regime/ use the bike regularly
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Last edited by mentalboy on 13:01 - 13 Jan 2015; edited 1 time in total
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Nemo
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PostPosted: 13:20 - 13 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the multimeter (and ignition off) plug the red lead into the 10A fused hole on the meter, then set the dial to amps, I usually have it on 10.

Disconnect the negative lead of the battery and put the multimeter between the battery terminal and the negative lead.

There should be a draw of less than an amp, if there is more, you have something draining the battery.
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iooi
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PostPosted: 13:29 - 13 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

sinedtomuch wrote:


I would go with the relay option however I dont fancy playing wire piñata.


Simple. Pick the sidelight wire or rear light wire.
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pdg
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PostPosted: 14:01 - 13 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nemo wrote:

There should be a draw of less than an amp, if there is more, you have something draining the battery.


It should be far less than an amp...

A 0.25A load would flatten a good condition fully charged YT9 battery in less than a weekend.
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pdg
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PostPosted: 14:02 - 13 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

sinedtomuch wrote:
[Do scotchlocks work okay for splicing?


No.

Do it properly with solder and heatshrink, or at the very least crimp terminals.
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monkeybiker
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PostPosted: 18:06 - 14 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you need a new battery. I bet if you left it a few days it wouldn't start.
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monkeybiker
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PostPosted: 13:21 - 16 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does sound like the clutch is slipping. How many miles on the bike?

If you do change the clutch then do the clutch springs as well.
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pdg
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PostPosted: 13:37 - 16 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

sinedtomuch wrote:
How would you crimp terminal it? Do you get three way bullet connectors or something?


Yes, you can. You could even use spade terminals (less recommended, but they do work just fine if crimped properly). Either get the ones with the seperate sleeve, use heatshrink or tape it up.

Don't just twist wires together and tape them though...

Cheapy terminals are pretty bad, but still miles ahead of scotchlocks. Using scotchlocks for anything at all is akin to using chipboard to repair the titanic.
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monkeybiker
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PostPosted: 14:19 - 16 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

sinedtomuch wrote:
17,000, i'll change everything but the basket probably, this assuming if lubing and adjusting the cable doesn't fix.

its worth noting the lever isn't returning to the previous position and is getting stuck, this for sure means it needs lubed.

Will do this today after work


I would get a new clutch cable if it's that bad. Cable may be broken and frayed so could end up snapping.

If it's sticking like that then that could be holding the clutch open.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 16:28 - 16 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

monkeybiker wrote:
sinedtomuch wrote:
17,000, i'll change everything but the basket probably, this assuming if lubing and adjusting the cable doesn't fix.

its worth noting the lever isn't returning to the previous position and is getting stuck, this for sure means it needs lubed.

Will do this today after work


I would get a new clutch cable if it's that bad. Cable may be broken and frayed so could end up snapping.

If it's sticking like that then that could be holding the clutch open.


OP: Don't fall into the 'I don't know what it is so I'll replace everything in the region and hope it works' trap.
Firstly inspect your cable and lever end, remove the cable if you're not sure on it's condition - you'll soon work out if the cable actually needs replacing (although, again, if not sure apply WD-40 or similar work cable in it's sheath - rusty crud is never a good sign) if moving and clean then check your manual and see if it's a lube or non-lube type cable, if it says lube up then get a load of 3-in-1 oil in there.

If the cable and lever are all ok, then remove clutch cover (if you are lucky the gasket will stay in one piece, budget for a new gasket before you start). Then visually inspect clutch and see if anything is obviously knackered. Then you are into strip down territory, keep going until something is obvious or out of it's tolerance range.

Only then make a shopping list and visit your local friendly factor/go web surfing and purchase parts - don't purchase anything until you know what the problem is.
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