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[problem] Slipping into neutral

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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 04:56 - 04 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, it's not normal for a bike to 'slip' into neutral when shifting up.
Was the bike brand new when you bought it?
Is the selection of other gears a little clunkier than you remember?

Most likely thing is oil. Do you know when the gearbox oil was last changed/ have you ever checked the gear oil level?

Secondly - could it be your clutch dragging? How much play is in the cable at the lever end (I usually aim for 1 or 2mm slack on most clutches).

Other culprits will lie within the gearbox/clutch and aren't quite so easy to fix. Try the first two points before stripping anything or worrying too much!
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scorpia4
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PostPosted: 07:45 - 04 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had those problems and my bike is now unable to move from its own force Laughing
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Iain.
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PostPosted: 09:04 - 04 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check chain tension.

If it's not tensioned correctly when you go from first to second it doesn't spin some doohickey in the gearbox quite enough to engage second gear and it'll spit itself back out.

My YBR did it lots, just don't overtighten it as you'll snap the chain and end up wrecking the engine/taking a chunk out of your leg/buying a CBR125 Laughing

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=4060852#4060852
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 10:34 - 04 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check your chain tension. If it's too tight the bike will want to stay in neutral even when kicking 'through' it. It could also be down to the gear shift mechanism needing lubrication.

Chain tension first, then gear shift mechanism (ball joints) then gearbox oil, then the other complicated stuff people have mentioned. Always check the simplest (and cheapest) problems first.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 13:24 - 04 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

mpd72 wrote:
false neutrals from 1st to 2nd are quite common.


I think you'll find that 'neutral' is quite common between 1st and 2nd, false neutrals are those delightful times when you change between other gear ratios and find yourself in limbo!
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Dave70
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PostPosted: 23:06 - 04 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

It may sound silly but, have you changed to different boots lately?

I never had this problem when wearing my TCX boots, yet when I've got my Sidi's on I have to make sure I give the gear leaver a more determined kick upwards. Otherwise it often doesn't engage properly and will slip back down into neutral and this never happens when wearing the TCX's.
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talkToTheHat
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PostPosted: 23:45 - 04 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

How do the gear lever linkages move? if they are stif and unlubed or caked with road grime you are much more likely to catch neutral accidnetally or have a hard time finding it deliberatley.
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iginge
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PostPosted: 23:58 - 04 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had exactly the same problem with my bike (different from OP's) going from 1st to 2nd was a nightmare and hated stopping as I'd know what was coming next when I attempted to get moving again.

A change in position of the gear shift lever solved 90% of my problem (not instantly either), my next one was getting my chain tensioned, clean and lube the chain.

A recent service also helped.

My problem still occurs from time to time but no where near as much as prior to doing all the above.

Also (i'm not sure if this advice was given just to me) but I was told that putting even the slightest bit of pressure on the shift lever prior to attempting a shift (can easily be done without realising) can cause problems when an actual up-shift is attempted.

I've experienced both false neutral's and neutral while on the move, non of them are a pleasant experience.

So all in all my advice;

- Adjust position of gear lever (mine was lowered)
- check chain tension / clean and lube chain

Also it may be worth checking your clutch to ensure that's correctly adjusted and ensure it's engaging with the correct amount of play (owners handbook) and be sure it's in the right position for your arm/hand.. should be a straight line all the way down comfortably (hold your arm out at an angle downwards and that's the correct position).
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 01:12 - 05 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://wizbangblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Echo-Chamber.jpg
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Commuter_Tim
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PostPosted: 01:29 - 05 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think your real problem is you slipped outside of the Workshop section.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 13:24 - 05 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

mpd72 wrote:

By a "false neutral" between first and second, I was referring to an unintentional neutral, when you meant to get a gear. Rolling Eyes


I understood what you meant, however an unintentional neutral is exactly that - a false neutral refers to one that doesn't exist
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IOM95
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PostPosted: 23:18 - 06 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Commuter_Tim wrote:
I think your real problem is you slipped outside of the Workshop section.


If an admin wants to move it or delete it they can. I am new to this forum so i'm very sorry if I posted in the wrong section lol
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Commuter_Tim
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PostPosted: 23:29 - 06 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

IOM95 wrote:
Commuter_Tim wrote:
I think your real problem is you slipped outside of the Workshop section.


If an admin wants to move it or delete it they can. I am new to this forum so i'm very sorry if I posted in the wrong section lol


Sorry, the Mods are all busy debating Karma revocation and the morality/legality of posting Nobcat. Eh?
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 23:34 - 06 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Commuter_Tim wrote:

Sorry, the Mods are all busy debating Karma revocation Eh?


Are we to assume by this statement that they are having a mass debate?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 23:46 - 06 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

mpd72 wrote:

If we're getting really nerdy on this...

Technically they are pretty much the same thing anyway. A "false neutral" by your rules is when a sprocket on the output shaft hasn't moved far enough sideways for it to engage its pins into an adjacent sprocket's holes to engage a gear. An "unintentional neutral" is no real difference, a 1st or 2nd gear sprocket on the output shaft disengages but the rotation of the selector drum and movement of the selector fork is not strong enough to re-engage it into 1st or 2nd.

After all the obvious has been checked, a common cause for this can be a worn or broken spring on the selector shaft. This can cause the pegs on the shaft not to centralise after a shift, meaning the next shift isn't positive enough to turn the drum enough to engage the next gear. As the shift from 1st to 2nd involves disengaging and engaging sprockets in one movement, it needs a good positive shift so can be the first symptom of the OP's problem.


If I can correct your terminology, the DETENT ARM stops the selector drum in the correct location by locating in the detents in the DETENT WHEEL. A weak spring or worn arm, wheel or drum can cause false neutrals. The detent wheel is the star shaped wheel on the end of the drum and the detent arm is the sprung arm with the little roller in the end.

The hook that pulls on the pins to turn the drum is called a PAWL, a hook pawl to be precise. A worn pawl can also cause false neutrals if it doesn't pull the pin round far enough to pull the detent arm over the top of the crest so that the spring can do the rest of the work of locating the detent.

Other causes can be worn selector forks, worn gear dogs, badly assembled gearbox and worn or missing thrust washers or circlips.
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