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IOM95 |
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 IOM95 L Plate Warrior
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mentalboy |
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 mentalboy World Chat Champion

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scorpia4 |
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 scorpia4 Nova Slayer
Joined: 03 Aug 2014 Karma :    
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 Posted: 07:45 - 04 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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I had those problems and my bike is now unable to move from its own force  |
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Iain. |
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 Iain. Could Be A Chat Bot

Joined: 04 Dec 2014 Karma :   
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 Posted: 09:04 - 04 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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Check chain tension.
If it's not tensioned correctly when you go from first to second it doesn't spin some doohickey in the gearbox quite enough to engage second gear and it'll spit itself back out.
My YBR did it lots, just don't overtighten it as you'll snap the chain and end up wrecking the engine/taking a chunk out of your leg/buying a CBR125
https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=4060852#4060852 |
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 - Super Spammer
Joined: 22 Oct 2013 Karma :     
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 Posted: 09:24 - 04 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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Once you've checked all the basics as suggested above, the next step could be the selector shaft. They are not that expensive through Yamaha but it requires the clutch cover and kick start mechanism removing, maybe even the clutch basket, I can't remember now. The shaft comes out through the clutch side, so obviously the gear shift lever will need removing. Whilst you're at it, swap the shaft seal on the lever side, they're very cheap.
Basically there's a spring on the selector shaft which should return the pin on the end of the shaft to central after a shift, when this spring wears or snaps, you don't get a clean shift and false neutrals from 1st to 2nd are quite common. ____________________ TZR250 2MA road, TZR250 1KT road, TZR250 2MA race, TDR250, YZF-750R Boost colours.
Jaguar S Type 3.0 V6 Sport R, VW Transporter T5 GP LWB Shuttle 140ps DSG. |
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MarJay |
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 MarJay But it's British!

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mentalboy |
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 mentalboy World Chat Champion

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Dave70 |
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 Dave70 World Chat Champion

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talkToTheHat |
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 talkToTheHat World Chat Champion

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iginge |
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 iginge Nova Slayer
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mentalboy |
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 mentalboy World Chat Champion

Joined: 05 May 2012 Karma :   
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 Posted: 01:12 - 05 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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Commuter_Tim |
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 Commuter_Tim World Chat Champion

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 - Super Spammer
Joined: 22 Oct 2013 Karma :     
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mentalboy |
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 mentalboy World Chat Champion

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 - Super Spammer
Joined: 22 Oct 2013 Karma :     
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 Posted: 16:09 - 05 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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mentalboy wrote: | mpd72 wrote: |
By a "false neutral" between first and second, I was referring to an unintentional neutral, when you meant to get a gear.  |
I understood what you meant, however an unintentional neutral is exactly that - a false neutral refers to one that doesn't exist |
If we're getting really nerdy on this...
Technically they are pretty much the same thing anyway. A "false neutral" by your rules is when a sprocket on the output shaft hasn't moved far enough sideways for it to engage its pins into an adjacent sprocket's holes to engage a gear. An "unintentional neutral" is no real difference, a 1st or 2nd gear sprocket on the output shaft disengages but the rotation of the selector drum and movement of the selector fork is not strong enough to re-engage it into 1st or 2nd.
After all the obvious has been checked, a common cause for this can be a worn or broken spring on the selector shaft. This can cause the pegs on the shaft not to centralise after a shift, meaning the next shift isn't positive enough to turn the drum enough to engage the next gear. As the shift from 1st to 2nd involves disengaging and engaging sprockets in one movement, it needs a good positive shift so can be the first symptom of the OP's problem. ____________________ TZR250 2MA road, TZR250 1KT road, TZR250 2MA race, TDR250, YZF-750R Boost colours.
Jaguar S Type 3.0 V6 Sport R, VW Transporter T5 GP LWB Shuttle 140ps DSG. |
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IOM95 |
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 IOM95 L Plate Warrior
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Commuter_Tim |
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 Commuter_Tim World Chat Champion

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mentalboy |
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 mentalboy World Chat Champion

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Pete. |
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 Pete. Super Spammer

Joined: 22 Aug 2006 Karma :     
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 Posted: 23:46 - 06 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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mpd72 wrote: |
If we're getting really nerdy on this...
Technically they are pretty much the same thing anyway. A "false neutral" by your rules is when a sprocket on the output shaft hasn't moved far enough sideways for it to engage its pins into an adjacent sprocket's holes to engage a gear. An "unintentional neutral" is no real difference, a 1st or 2nd gear sprocket on the output shaft disengages but the rotation of the selector drum and movement of the selector fork is not strong enough to re-engage it into 1st or 2nd.
After all the obvious has been checked, a common cause for this can be a worn or broken spring on the selector shaft. This can cause the pegs on the shaft not to centralise after a shift, meaning the next shift isn't positive enough to turn the drum enough to engage the next gear. As the shift from 1st to 2nd involves disengaging and engaging sprockets in one movement, it needs a good positive shift so can be the first symptom of the OP's problem. |
If I can correct your terminology, the DETENT ARM stops the selector drum in the correct location by locating in the detents in the DETENT WHEEL. A weak spring or worn arm, wheel or drum can cause false neutrals. The detent wheel is the star shaped wheel on the end of the drum and the detent arm is the sprung arm with the little roller in the end.
The hook that pulls on the pins to turn the drum is called a PAWL, a hook pawl to be precise. A worn pawl can also cause false neutrals if it doesn't pull the pin round far enough to pull the detent arm over the top of the crest so that the spring can do the rest of the work of locating the detent.
Other causes can be worn selector forks, worn gear dogs, badly assembled gearbox and worn or missing thrust washers or circlips. ____________________ a.k.a 'Geri'
132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good  |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 10 years, 140 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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