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2009 Honda CBF 125 M9 Front Wheel Resistance

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Elfminster
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PostPosted: 09:12 - 17 Feb 2015    Post subject: 2009 Honda CBF 125 M9 Front Wheel Resistance Reply with quote

Hello. Very Happy I just got my first motorcycle. I have only ever ridden a twist and go and that was years ago. I took her out yesterday for the first time. I thought I would have a nightmare learning to use gears for the first time but it all went really well. I felt a bit unsafe around roundabouts but I think that is because I need a new back tyre. Maybe it needs air too.

It's raining for the next few days which is dissapointing but I don't feel confident enough to go out while the roads are slick. I have to get to the garage when it's dry to get a new back tyre put on.

Anyway, after riding the bike for a while I noticed something odd. If I am cruising at say 50MPH and take my hand off the throttle allowing the bike to slow down naturally there seems to be some kind of resistance on the front wheel - a bit like driving a car with the handbrake on slightly. A friend said it was a probably a piston caliper sticking. I tried spinning the front wheel while it was parked up (while someone lifted the bike) and there does seem to be a lot of resistance there as it won't spin freely. The front brakes do work fine though.

Also, I think the back tyre is 100/80-17 52 P TL M/C (ContiGo!) but would this tyre fit my bike?

https://www.oponeo.es/neumatico-moto/irc-sn23-urban-snow-100-80-17-52-l-delanteros-traseros-tl-m-s#80882099

Thanks for any information.

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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 09:40 - 17 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bike brakes do need maintenance. The capiler is exposed to all the road crud and they do stick.

Do this, clean the pistons. Also check that it's sliding on the sliding pins - Google will provide videos.
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Taught2BCauti...
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PostPosted: 09:44 - 17 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

You probably need to give the front caliper a good clean, and check the pistons for signs of rusting or pitting. As the pads wear-down, more of the piston is exposed.

I do mine every 6 months or so, because dust tends to build up and I notice the pads dragging on the disc when I'm pushing the bike into the garage.

The tyre you are looking at, seems to be for use in the snow - so would probably wear out pretty quick on dry roads. You should be able to see the markings on your tyre that give you the size and speed rating, but if you are in any doubt, try www.blackcircles.com and enter your reg number to find recommended tyres.

I find that a variation of just 2-3psi either side of the correct pressure, makes a massive difference to the bike's handling characteristics - especially when riding over white lines, wet leaves, loose chippings and ironwork - so get yourself a decent tyre pressure gauge.
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Last edited by Taught2BCautious on 09:46 - 17 Feb 2015; edited 1 time in total
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dydey90
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PostPosted: 09:45 - 17 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

CBF125 you say? That'll probably be all the flux.
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FriendlyEllis
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PostPosted: 10:01 - 17 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my Hornet there is a bit of resistance when you spin the front wheel.

Like the pads are touching the disc slightly and the garage said this is fine.

Not enough to show the bike down though.
Feel your dfisc to see if its getting warm. It shouldn't.

Or stop by a Honda dealer and ask them for a quick opinion?
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 10:07 - 17 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

FriendlyEllis wrote:
Or stop by a Honda dealer and ask them for a quick opinion?

What, like Victor Devine, or this lot?

<wipes eyes>

Comedy classic, well played.
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FriendlyEllis
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PostPosted: 10:56 - 17 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
FriendlyEllis wrote:
Or stop by a Honda dealer and ask them for a quick opinion?

What, like Victor Devine, or this lot?

<wipes eyes>

Comedy classic, well played.


What, the glass is half empty, everybody is trying to con you, ??
Or a dealer will look at it for free and tell you its fine and give you peace of mind.

Where are you based mate?
Someone could recommend you a trustworthy dealer. Or independent?

Are you sure its not just engine braking? Try pulling in the clutch to see if you still get this resistance. If you don't, is just the engine slowing you down, which is normal. When you shut the throttle off, the air intakes closes off and the engine is slowed by this vacuum.

If you can turn the wheel by hand there won't be enough resistance there to noticeably slow you down. When you think of the momentum of the combined weight of you and your bike.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 11:32 - 17 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

FriendlyEllis wrote:
What, the glass is half empty, everybody is trying to con you, ??

Not everybody.

OP needs to figure out how to do simple tasks on his simple bike. If he gets into the habit of relying on Honda dealers, they're going to make his wallet squeal like a pig.

The only peace of mind I get is knowing that I've done a job myself.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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Elfminster
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PostPosted: 11:56 - 17 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for advice. Smile I just put the bike on its stand on an incline, pressed the clutch and rotated the wheel forward and then backwards. There is definatley some resistance when rotating the wheel forward but noticeably less resistance when rotating the wheel backwards. Question There is also a bit of a rubbing sound when rotating the wheel forward.

I am tempted to take a look at the calipers myself after watching a few videos on how to do it.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 12:13 - 17 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go for it, it's pretty simple stuff. Other than the obvious issue of bolting everything back on securely, the only real hazard is accidentally popping a piston out. Just pump them out a bit at a time, cleaning as you go, and stop when you reach clean piston.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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FriendlyEllis
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PostPosted: 16:14 - 17 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

What I'm trying to say is some resistance is normal.
A dealer can tell you what's normal.

You could end up dismantling you brakes and getting into a mess unnecessarily.

I still say its probably normal.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 16:27 - 17 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

FriendlyEllis wrote:
I still say its probably normal.

How very reassuring.

It's a 6 year old 125 that OP has just got. Absent clear evidence that the brakes have been cleaned recently, I'd do it as a matter of course, along with changing the oil. I'd probably replace the brake fluid too.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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Elfminster
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PostPosted: 17:40 - 17 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I detached the caliper and removed the pads. The caliper rods were very stiff so I washed and scrubbed them with a toothbrush and they gleam now. They are moving freely while pressing the break and I can push them down with my fingers.

The break pads were completely flat. Absolutely nothing left on them!

Ordered some EBC pads (https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/honda/cbf_125_m9_ma/09-10/picture/pads_front_ebc_standard_gg_type/) which cost 33 Euro so I have to wait a few days for them to arrive before I can ride again. Neutral Then I have to go get a new back tyre for 74 Euro.

I hope I haven't bought a turkey but I did get it cheap. Laughing
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 18:53 - 17 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Elfminster wrote:
The break pads were completely flat. Absolutely nothing left on them!

Oh, that sounds "normal". Whistle

Good job on getting stuck in. Thumbs Up
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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FriendlyEllis
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PostPosted: 22:29 - 17 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Elfminster wrote:
The break pads were completely flat. Absolutely nothing left on them!

Oh, that sounds "normal". Whistle

Good job on getting stuck in. Thumbs Up


OK. Did I not say ask a dealer, right at the start of this, who could look at the bike who WOULD know what's normal? :WHISTLE:

He did say the brakes worked fine! :WHISTLE: I said 'probably' based on this.

Which they obviously weren't.... Again a dealer would have known this. :WHISTLE:

Rogerborg, you criticised me for suggesting getting an expert to look at the brakes, rather than a bunch of strangers on the internet? Why?
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 09:02 - 18 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

FriendlyEllis wrote:
dealer [...] expert

My issue is with conflating those words.

125 brakes are not complicated and one of the areas where I feel strongly that owners are better to learn and DIY it, rather than to trust the judgement of someone who won't be riding the bike.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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FriendlyEllis
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PostPosted: 09:38 - 18 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I only suggested asking the dealer if his brakes were normal.

They'd have said, no, they're sticking and worn. Shall we book you in?.
The OP could have then said "thanks but no, I'll learn how to do this myself"

In effect Rog your saying doing it yourself gives a better job than someone who is trained and does it for a living.

Or are you saying that they do a good job but you don't like to pay them?

That's what jobs are.
They are someone's expertise. Are you not good at anything?
Should people not rely on you?, and instead DIY, I assume you make a living, by people somehow relying on you to do your expertise right?

What torque settings should the OP be using on his life savers? Do you know? The non expert at the Honda garage does.

I'm actually for DIY if people fully understand how to do a job properly and am glad the OP has learnt this. If you're going to DIY you should at least have a service manual to know the correct settings etc.

OP you would benefit from a Haynes Manual. They're £18 ish.

We should agree to disagree on whether dealers are good, bad or ugly. Its just opinion.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 10:59 - 18 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

FriendlyEllis wrote:
In effect Rog your saying doing it yourself gives a better job than someone who is trained and does it for a living.

I'm saying that I'd rather rely on brakes that I've done to my standards, than on what some possibly trained spanner monkey has done to whatever standards he considers appropriate for someone else's bike.


FriendlyEllis wrote:
Are you not good at anything?
Should people not rely on you?, and instead DIY, I assume you make a living, by people somehow relying on you to do your expertise right?

Yes. I don't change brake pads on 125s though. If I did, I'd view people who paid me to do it as lazy sods.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 12:10 - 18 Feb 2015    Post subject: brakes Reply with quote

:D its not your fault dude, thread posted some time ago about this.....did you buy the bike from a guy who services his brakes by ridi9ng it thru a ford....the water variety not the car!!

sticky pistons, slide calipers and/or pads....design dependent.

see cmsnl exploded view of your bikes front brakes etc.......print them off if you can,,,,,be carefull about the pistons and don't pop them out else bleed nipple/master cylinder res screws issues.....how is the chain?? :karma:

if you got the bike from a dealer or was described as perfect...them some sort of warranty/description legal issue....

get a manual, there may be a copy on here......once done, enjoy!!
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Elfminster
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PostPosted: 12:32 - 18 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have uploaded a couple of images as I am not sure about one of the bolts (or pin) and a seal is damaged.

All the bits I removed: https://i.imgur.com/ptHiHi4.jpg

The pin and seal in question: https://i.imgur.com/aAHVHDe.jpg

I think I need this pin boot: https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cbf125m-2009-england_model18639/bush-pin_45132166016/#.VOR3ky4tpc8 but I am not sure where to get a replacement for that pin.

EDIT: I think this is the pin: https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cbf125m-2009-european-direct-sales_model18640/bolt-pin_45131gz0006/#.VOR5Di4tpc8
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 11:12 - 19 Feb 2015    Post subject: brakes Reply with quote

so,

the pics and bits tell you that the pads are ok?????

the pin and boot are ok?????????

and the plate that the pin screws into is ok????????

do the pistons push in with thumb pressure ( with the res lid on they may need severe thumb pressure ) meaning they are stiff??

any more pics and an exploded view from cmsnl.........

how is the chain?

the pistons can be excersied by using the front brake lever and hydraulics...........push both in as far as they will go ( a g clamp and some wood to protect the alloy caliper and fragile piston ) .

clamp one piston in and excersie the "free" one. be carefull and don't pop out the piston else bleed nipple /res cover screw issues...........clean with rag and brake fluid.. clean and repeat with othjer piston. pics pics pics especially of cmnsl expllded view so we can all see.

how is fluid, black??

remember brakes are safety critical.
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Elfminster
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PostPosted: 15:03 - 19 Feb 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I decided to buy and replace the entire caliper system, with pads, from a bike with very low mileage from a breakers yard which worked out a lot cheaper than buying the seals and bolts separately especially when you factor in delivery.

Fluid is not black, yellowish, but now I have a new caliper on the way I am going to bleed the front breaks then move onto changing the engine oil. Then onto chain etc. Smile

Thanks for all the advice. Happy with the bike especially discovering how cheap parts are on eBay. Surprised
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 12:06 - 20 Feb 2015    Post subject: bits Reply with quote

:D
cool that's your choice....

use the "old " bits to learn on/with and keep as spares.........

black fluid.. perhaps a master cylinder seal change is in order.....

see the tiny re couperating port/hole in the master cylinder ( tiny hole at bottom of counter sunk hole nearest the brake pipe ) res bottom........this tiny hole needs to be clear else binding brakes issues.....

and be careful about the circlip, don't break an eye off or end up with the circlip in your eye.....

see cmnsl exploded views etc.......master cylinder time is now really as the brakes are apart.......

circlip is easy to remove if lubed with fluid and coaxed round first.....

with circlip gap at noon, use eleven o clock eye and rotate clockwise.......so circlip ( spring ) "self frees off" other direction on eleven o clock eye, circlip self servo's on and tight....similar to leading/trailing brake shoe idea.

take your time and enjoy.

you know of red rubber grease?? :karma:
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