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Can anyone identify this problem?

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Craigwheeler
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 16 Mar 2015
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PostPosted: 16:54 - 16 Mar 2015    Post subject: Can anyone identify this problem? Reply with quote
The clutch cable won't spring back, it feels stiff (see pic) of I move it manually it will engage but I don't know why it's so stiff. Any help would be much appreciated as I don't want to let a garage rip me off. Cheers
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Highside
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 16 Mar 2015
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PostPosted: 17:01 - 16 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
Hmmm ,Maybe take the clutch cable out and lube it with some wd-40 ?

Or check your major adjustment ?

What bike is it ?
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Craigwheeler
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 16 Mar 2015
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PostPosted: 17:05 - 16 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
It's a honda cg 125, I tried lube but it's seriously stiff.

The bike was running fine then all of a sudden it wouldn't allow me to change gear. I fitted a new clutch cable prior to this thinking that was the problem then upon fitting it stumbled across this issue.
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Paddy Blake
World Chat Champion



Joined: 29 Jun 2006
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PostPosted: 18:20 - 16 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
Check that the cable is the same length as the old one and

not shorter.
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Craigwheeler
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 16 Mar 2015
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PostPosted: 18:24 - 16 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
Paddy Blake wrote:
Check that the cable is the same length as the old one and

not shorter.


The cable is slack, but that's because it's not springing back and pulling it 50mm or so to tighten it. It's stuck at 12 o clock when it should be 10 o'clock
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NJD
World Chat Champion



Joined: 11 Mar 2015
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PostPosted: 18:27 - 16 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
Take the engine casing off and visually inspect inside, it could be that road salt (or something else) has worked its way inside and corroded the parts.

I rode my bike all through winter without any issues, then one day I engaged into 1st gear and the clutch wouldn't disengage, long story short the arm was getting stuck (in the same position as yours) due to road salt having worked its way inside where the arm goes into the engine casing and corroding the insides.

Get er off is the only way to check.
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Craigwheeler
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 16 Mar 2015
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PostPosted: 18:30 - 16 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
NJD wrote:
Take the engine casing off and visually inspect inside, it could be that road salt (or something else) has worked its way inside and corroded the parts.

I rode my bike all through winter without any issues, then one day I engaged into 1st gear and the clutch wouldn't disengage, long story short the arm was getting stuck (in the same position as yours) due to road salt having worked its way inside where the arm goes into the engine casing and corroding the insides.

Get er off is the only way to check.


Yep that's what im gonna do, I jut wanted to make sure before I take off all the casing and potentially tinker with something that doesn't need it. Was it relatively simple to fix?
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NJD
World Chat Champion



Joined: 11 Mar 2015
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PostPosted: 18:36 - 16 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
Craigwheeler wrote:
Yep that's what im gonna do, I jut wanted to make sure before I take off all the casing and potentially tinker with something that doesn't need it. Was it relatively simple to fix?


Mine was under warranty so cannot help sadly, as far as I'm aware they just cleaned the insides out.. and advised to spray WD40 in that very small gap between the arm and the engine case to avoid it in the future.

Although upon visiting today (for a different reason) the mechanic said once it's solved that should be it, so can probably lay of the WD40 now that the weathers improved and road salt isn't being used.

I'd say get it off, inspect inside.. if required post pictures, might be that some parts needs replacing.. hard to say without inspecting.
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misscrabstick
Crazy Courier



Joined: 05 Jul 2013
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PostPosted: 18:37 - 16 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
There is a shaft underneath that lever that goes down into the casing, I wonder if Mr winter salty has done a number on the shaft and corroded it up so it's binding in the casing, your next move is logical, casing off and have a look see.
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Craigwheeler
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 16 Mar 2015
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PostPosted: 18:40 - 16 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
NJD wrote:
Craigwheeler wrote:
Yep that's what im gonna do, I jut wanted to make sure before I take off all the casing and potentially tinker with something that doesn't need it. Was it relatively simple to fix?


Mine was under warranty so cannot help sadly, as far as I'm aware they just cleaned the insides out.. and advised to spray WD40 in that very small gap between the arm and the engine case to avoid it in the future.

Although upon visiting today (for a different reason) the mechanic said once it's solved that should be it, so can probably lay of the WD40 now that the weathers improved and road salt isn't being used.

I'd say get it off, inspect inside.. if required post pictures, might be that some parts needs replacing.. hard to say without inspecting.


Cheers for the advice. I'll get it off Tomo and see what's what.
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cresad
Nova Slayer



Joined: 02 Jun 2014
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PostPosted: 22:19 - 16 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
Hi

We had a similar problem with my son's bike , a chinese version of the same engine. It turned out that the shaft that runs down inside the casing that's attached to the lever had corroded in the runners. Don't forget you'll need a gasket for the case and oil.

Adam
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Old Thread Alert!

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