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How to remove rounded hex bolts? (with pics)

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Gazz
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 08 Apr 2015    Post subject: How to remove rounded hex bolts? (with pics) Reply with quote

Tonight I managed to round an internal hex bolt on the front brakes. The bolt is just really a cover for the actually bolts which undo the caliper.

Any suggestions on how to remove it?

Rounded one

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/11150168_10153170228537768_4531573149576055931_n.jpg?oh=2fa6648cb9ed41cf13fc1e8e4e850594&oe=55A96A4E&__gda__=1436710283_f7611352887a360e06b631966f8e7932

The one that did remove without any issues.

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/1896780_10153170231082768_489513299246121712_n.jpg?oh=790fcfc780da523d9772241211f0236d&oe=55AA32B1

The thing that came out (and needs to come out the other one)

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/11012676_10153170228807768_5579754199318174677_n.jpg?oh=4c7416530d1defa6e3e99e18d8b4f99c&oe=55ADF00B
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A100man
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PostPosted: 19:57 - 08 Apr 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're not in a hurry 1st soak with plus gas. If you are then heat it up as much as you can (avoiding overheating rubber seals) and tap it round with a centre punch. also try banging it square on with a drift first to shock it.
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PostPosted: 20:05 - 08 Apr 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

As usual, left threaded drill bit. The plug is toast anyway, the drill will have it out in no time.
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Acemastr
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PostPosted: 20:07 - 08 Apr 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cut a slit in each side and use a flat head screwdriver
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 22:46 - 08 Apr 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.amazon.co.uk/HeroNeo%C2%AE-Screw-Extractor-Broken-Remover/dp/B00RB1A48O/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1428529500&sr=8-5&keywords=bolt+remover

Piece of piss
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BanditsHigh
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PostPosted: 09:23 - 09 Apr 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Usual method is to hammer in an oversize torx bit ... it should cut grooves into the side of the head and allow you to get it out.

The other way is to weld a nut on to the head.

If you get stuck, you could drop by with the caliper and I can weld a nut on Thumbs Up

All the best ... Barry
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PostPosted: 09:34 - 09 Apr 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

ADSrox0r wrote:


If the bit he's trying to remove is seized enough to round off it could well be seized enough to snap an easy out in place leaving him with even more of a problem.
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gl0ckage
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PostPosted: 10:41 - 09 Apr 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

JB Weld + Something thats fits inside you can rotate.

+ Shock & unlock spray or plus-gas w/e brand you want.
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 19:32 - 10 Apr 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tried the oversized torx bit. Tried drill in reverse. Tried cutting slots in the sides and using screwdriver but none of the above seem to have worked.

Unsure of the welding option because the bolt is less than 10mm in diameter and the area I would need to weld would be very small.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/11150605_10153174999212768_8675847052592231370_n.jpg?oh=72b39f5025b28fb6f274ee7c5adea1ff&oe=55E24138&__gda__=1436165725_f5c6902867ddb480e9857ab1420ba8bd

And I worry that I will end up welding something to the surface of the caliper by mistake.

Here is the state of the bolt now:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/11149526_10153174999362768_2318444121953842491_n.jpg?oh=dfaa22e66ca290afeb84768159fd1e0c&oe=55A89821&__gda__=1441120917_8d399e4598b899e370b0407bc509a476

Any other advice?
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 19:35 - 10 Apr 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

P.S - I only have a stick welder so accuracy would be worse than if I had a welder that used wire. The welding rods are probably thicker than the small section of bolt that I would need to weld onto.
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 20:23 - 10 Apr 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Second hand caliper may be easier?
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 20:45 - 10 Apr 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

ADSrox0r wrote:


Just bought these, for £3, we'll see if they work with what is left of the bolt. If not, then they will come in handy for a future job I am sure.

The only problem is, the delivery time is another 2 weeks at the earliest!!!!!!!!!! Shocked
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A100man
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 10 Apr 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gazz wrote:
Tried the oversized torx bit. Tried drill in reverse. Tried cutting slots in the sides and using screwdriver but none of the above seem to have worked.

Any other advice?


Well drill in reverse isn't going to be any good with out a reverse (left hand) action drill bit. cutting slots was also going to be anon-starter IMO - just can't apply enough torque before you b*gger up the tiny slots you can manage to create.

You don't say if you tried soaking in penetrating fluid and tapping it around with a punch as was also suggested..
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Robby
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PostPosted: 21:02 - 10 Apr 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

You said you tried drill in reverse - were you using a left-handed drill bit, or just trying to spin a normal bit backwards?
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 21:04 - 10 Apr 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi,
cobalt drill bits. buy a set of 4 or 5 or singly, your choice.
i have them as small as 1.5mm up to 10mm (one of the best investments in last 5yrs btw) but in this instance, you might get away with just 4mm, 6mm & 8mm bits.

drill slow, with a bit of pressure, pushing downwards & keep the drill bit cool, this is vital. i spray it with wd40 with the wee red straw, simply because im a cheap-skate, so get it from poundland Cool (one of the few times wd40 is better than plus-gas)
the propellant in the aerosol cools the bit. the active ingredient cleans & lubes it slightly.
i then add a drop or 2 of 3-in-1 oil, from the wee plastic bottle (non aerosol) using it as a cutting oil (for same cheap-skate reasons as wd40 Wink )
start by getting the caliper in a vice & hit it with a hammer & punch, as close to the centre of the bolt as you can, then use the smallest drill bit & work your way up in size till the bolt collapses on itself.

at 1st you will think your getting nowhere, but keep with it. short bursts on the drill, as slow as possible till it starts to bite, then back out.
cool & clean. repeat over & over til your through the head.
when backing out, turn the drill into reverse, sometimes it will unscrew the bolt if it has enough of a bite/grip on the bolt head but if it doesnt, it WILL collapse on itself or turn to swarf eventually.

pick out the remnants of the bolt with something sharp & pointy, blow all the remaining debris with an air-line then tidy up the threads by running a tap down it.
15mins work.
done this myself a few times today, i have had to drill out 2 x M4 master cylinder bolts (the usual jis/phillips screw confusion by a po Rolling Eyes ) & 1 big hex head M8 caliper bolt using this very same method.

why cant people use the correct tools & treat the bolts to the correct lube or thread lock?
then they screw it up tight,too tight (no torque wrench?) even though theres a bloody good chance a future owner is gonna have to go through all this sh*t.

good luck!

cheers,
GAZ


Last edited by stirlinggaz on 21:09 - 10 Apr 2015; edited 1 time in total
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 21:19 - 10 Apr 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

BodyGuard wrote:
Twat a slit into it and work it out with a punch and hammer.


Says the fountain of knowleage.
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 21:26 - 10 Apr 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

BodyGuard wrote:


Yes I am I had a similar experience with a grub screw on my Daelim.


Forgive me but I'd rather stick a screwdriver up my arse sideways than follow your advice. That wants drilling out to the core size and a bottoming tap winding down the threads.
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webhead
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PostPosted: 23:42 - 10 Apr 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

chuck in bin and buy another secondhand one , and as it will be off make sure all the bits come apart and copper grease it then put it back on , simple why bodge something that saves your life?????
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PostPosted: 00:39 - 11 Apr 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

BodyGuard wrote:
Twat


Indeed.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 07:12 - 11 Apr 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gazz wrote:
P.S - I only have a stick welder so accuracy would be worse than if I had a welder that used wire. The welding rods are probably thicker than the small section of bolt that I would need to weld onto.


You can't use a screw extractor because it bottoms out against the pin. Not that it would be a good idea anyway.

Knock an old m6 allen key home in it and tack it on with your stick welder. There's no chance of it welding to the caliper you can't weld steel to ally like that. Let it cool a bit before you turn it, don't try it red hot.
Other option is to drill the whole thing out with a 10mm drill. It's just a cap for the pad retainer. Put the pin back in with blue threadlock and fill the hole with hot glue/RTV to keep water out.
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Ed Case
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PostPosted: 15:50 - 11 Apr 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

A sharp 'centre punch' ans a lightweight hammer.....works every time.
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andys675
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PostPosted: 22:18 - 11 Apr 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

had that problem with some cb350s calipers

drilled them through, leaving the seized bit in as a sort of sleeve, knocked a small chisel into the sleeve and used mole grips on it to turn the chisel and sleeve anti-clockwise and it came out leaving it like new, just needed a new brake pin

saw another bloke with a CB450DX who drilled them through and used huge split pins to hold the brake pads in, looked a bit dangerous to me
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