Castrol 10w40 oil

[DRZ4Hunned]

I've noticed Aldi have some 10w40 engine oil on their special buy for a fiver:

https://www.aldi.co.uk/en/specialbuys/sun-10-may/product-detail/ps/p/engine-oil-10w-40/

Could do with some for my 4 stroke 125, would this be ok to use? Are there any differences between car 10w40 and bike 10w40?
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DRZ400-SM
FZS600

[RhynoCZ]

10w40 is 10w40 if you believe in the mighty EU.

Mineral oils leave sediments in the engine.
Synthetic oils are the way to go, no sediments of it in the engine.
Car oils have friction modifiers, can/will make your clutch slip. When you run a dry clutch, it does not matter of course.
Motorcycle oils have no friction modifiers.

All the race spec nonsense on the bottle is just pure marketing, it is still a 10w40 no matter who or how at what race has won the GP.

Castrol oils might be the most counterfeited oils on the market.

I run Motul 5100 Ester, I don't know why or what the Ester does there, but I use it for 5 years now and every single engine I filled up with it works.
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[DRZ4Hunned]

Cheers for that, I can see it's part synthetic which many motorcycle oils are marketed as, or fully synthetic (probably not necessary on a 4 stroke 125 thumper). But since it's got a wet clutch it's a no-go?
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DRZ400-SM
FZS600

[Ben90]

Cheap for a litre, but litre bottles are a huge rip-off to begin with.

I buy Rock Oil Guardian 10w40 in 4l bottles for £17. If you're really not fussy then supermarket stuff is even cheaper (as above watch out for modifiers)

Add a few oil filters and that's a years worth of changes on a 125cc workhorse.

I did pick up the mini compressor from Aldi today. The quality is decent, it works well and has the screw-type valve fitting rather than those lever ones which break immediately. Well worth £10.
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Yamaha FZ6 S2

[Kickstart]

Hi

Almost certainly fine. Loads of people have used Castrol GTX with zero problems with the clutch (but GTX Magnatec regularly does cause problems). I routinely use car oils in bikes with no clutch problems (bike specific oil is a relatively new idea, and virtually no manufacturer bothered to specify bike specific oil until about 15 years ago).

Advantage of the synthetic oils is mainly that they last longer before they degrade. But on most bikes (and certainly a small air cooled engine) you are likely to be changing the oil to get rid of the contamination long before the oil has actually degraded.

That said, £5 for a litre of basic oil is not cheap.

All the best

K
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[Pol Anorl]

nope wouldn't touch it again, i have the worst clutch slip ever so now its gonna cost me twice as much just to get propper bike oil.
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[kramdra]

It will work but its not particularly cheap and wont last that long; 125's already have a pathetically low service interval of 1k miles due to being air cooled and having shite filtration - centrifugal/coarse mesh filters instead of proper paper ones. The oil runs hotter, gets cooked - turns black quickly.

Its better to use a decent quality fully synthetic oil that has just done 8k miles in a CBR6 and has some colour left. Thats what I put in my 125, and as I have lots, it gets changed often.

[RhynoCZ]

[kramdra]

No, the engine is designed for and expects 10w40. Changing the thickness will not increase temperature stability, probably makes it worse. Also does not reduce oil consumption with dodgy rings (Ive tried).

Fully synthetic does not cook, that is its main advantage along with extended service intervals. It should be used with turbos, air cooled and high revving bike engines. Almost everything else will be happy with mineral, anything that says otherwise is marketing bollocks.

[Val]

[DRZ4Hunned]

I'll give this one a miss and get some fully synthetic then, always thought 4 stroke 125's were more robust but clearly not.
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DRZ400-SM
FZS600

[LongJohn22]

[temeluchus]

The manual for my bike specifies API SE or SF oil, 10/40 or 20/50.

I buy this:

https://www.diy.com/departments/carlube-daytona-20w50-type-engine-oil-45l/259321_BQ.prd

and change the oil by the interval in the manual.
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Some shite cruiser. Now with guns and FREEDOM!

[weasley]

[LongJohn22]

The discount places such as Wilco do synthetic, semi synthetic and good old mineral. Their own brand products tend to be fairly basic and, (Paddy Ashdown moment narrowly avoided), I would be most surprised if they had any friction modifiers in them.

[stinkwheel]

Years of using it with nothing blowing up, sticking together that wasn't supposed to stick, slipping that wasn't supposed to slip or wearing out tells me castrol GTX is fine in motorcycle engines.

I have a 70k mile GPZ500 engine which did the last 62k miles on GTX. It's had a rebore and two head gaskets but the cams are is superb condition and the cams are what would get it if the oil was sub-standard.
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