2stroke running in procedure run it rich? ...

[Medicinal_Motocross]

Going to be getting my bike back on the road in next week after a rebuild, hoping a 2stroke fanatic can help me i was hoping to run it rich on 2stroke oil for the run in procedure (i think its rich not lean) can anyone advise me how i could do this ?

It has a 2stroke pump but with no adjustment other than cable and markings on the pumps pulley and im not sure how id go about doing it, is running it abit rich on 2t a wise idea after rebuild? It has a steel liner so im guessing may help slightly with cooling/heat...

Also after wiring it all up my horn doesnt seem to be as it should have fitted a new battery and put it on a trickle charge but im not 100% the battery chargers any good, the horn has a little shaft at the rear with a nut that mounts to the headlight bracket rather than a bracket sticking out of the horn i could possibly modify it to fit one of these and brand new from Corby Kawasaki the horns are £41.74 which is outrageous..

Any ideas anyone?

[Taught2BCauti...]

It would be a good idea to get hold of a copy of the official owner's manual, to see if there are any specific recommendations for the running-in period. If not, I wouldn't worry about it following a re-build.

If you do feel it would be a good idea to increase the oil / fuel ratio and there's no convenient way to do this automatically, you could add a small amount of 2T oil directly to the fuel, to supplement the oil delivery system.

A small investment in a cheap multimeter will help determine the state of the battery and the charging system - much cheaper than replacing the horn!

If the horn does prove to be defective, there are many cheaper alternatives available on eBay.
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[chris-red]

After I did a lot of work on my RXS I ran it with the oil pump and a decent amount of 2t in the tank.

I'm not sure if it is correct procedure, but I thought I'd rather a fouled plug than a seized engine!
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[Old Git Racing]

Just run it in normally, don't load the engine for a hundred miles, keep the revs away from max, don't hold a constant throttle, vary it.
Putting more oil in the tank effectively weakens the fuel/air mixture.

OGR
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[stevo as b4]

You'd probably get away with using the autolube system once set up and primed/bled correctly on it's own.

If so and you wanted a tad more lubrication (should not really be necessary due to all the oil on the parts when you built it), then add a 100:1 mix in the tank as well. 100:1 should not make the air/fuel ratio any leaner really as it's such a tiny amount of oil.

If your running pre-mix only then try 30:1 instead of whatever your normal pre-mix ratio is, and probably go up 2sizes on the Main jet as a starting point.

I run 36:1 on my KMX125, it's running two sizes up on the main jet currently, while I was running it in. It's probably a bit rich still, but the carb is being changed soon, so there's little point in messing with it too much.

[Medicinal_Motocross]

I dont really have anything to measure amounts of 2t putting into the fuel tank specifically would go with less precise cap fulls, would i get away with putting 100ml into the tank with full tank of fuel (9litres) aswell as its autolube without affecting anything?..

Im just starting off on tinkering with bikes so im not all that sure but remember reading someone running it with more 2t oil than usual for the run in period.
Im aware of the varied throttle but low load on the engine will keep it out of the powerband for the duration but i will need to check the valve and actuator are set up correct when should i do this it opens around 6-7k?

Its also a KMX 125. It has a standard expansion chamber so i believe has stamped KXM 154 or something similar but believe it be and a old style DEP exhaust at the back. Being a while ago i think had expansion & tail can both being dep and was using standard 102.5 main jet never had any problems? .. I really dont have time to order and wait for bigger jets would i be fine using the standard 102.5 for the time being? What are signs that its not running as it should mixture wise other than spark plug anything?

The horn moves when pressed pushes itself out but no sound i stupidly sprayed ACF50 on it which is probably why its had it now so gona have to somehow buy a cheap horn and use its bracket to mount to my headlight headlight/meter bracket

[MarJay]

If you add oil to the fuel you'll lean out the fuel/air mixture which is more likely to seize.

Just ride it gently, don't thrash the nuts off of it, don't ride at a constant RPM for any length of time, and don't labour the engine at low revs in high gear at low speed.
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[-]

Everyone has their own theory on this. On the instruction of Graham File for my race engines, I always ran the engine for 6 heat cycles before riding it. You warm it up to temperature on the drive then let it cool and repeat.

If you have the time, it's worth doing. Once on the track, I would gradually increase maximum revs through 6 practice sessions to be nailing it by the end of the day.

Never had a mechanical DNF in 5 seasons of racing.
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[Medicinal_Motocross]

Thanks for replies guys will probably run it normal no oil in the tank with replies differing as if it would cause any problems..

Have come across another problem fitted a new tail light bulb yesterday now with the headlight/sidelight on the tail light is at its brightest without pressing the brakeb ut with lights off and pressing brake the bulb is dimmest any ideas wat I done wrong? It seems to be wired correct from what can see but the tail light brightness is the wrong way round it should be brightest with the brake pressed on right?

[Ryder666]

Swap the bulb 180 degrees and it should sort itself, done that before