Bike problems

[Medicinal_Motocross]

Looking to get some advice on my kmx 125 issues firstly i re packed my silencer today with fine hair like wool from eBay replacing the stuff that was in there which was of a different complexion was almost like it came in a sheet similar to air filter sheet/foam but in a yellow colour, the stuff i used was very fine.. Have attached a picture of it

2) I fitted a new front caliper piston and seals and cant bleed it for the life of me, the hose isnt blocked, fluid is coming out of the end of bleed nipple althought i did see a bit of rust on one of the threads inside the caliper i cant see this being the problem but i may be wrong am not a mechanic. Can anyone advise what could be the cause? I fitted new pads correctly and pushed the piston in fully upon fitting

3) I ran it for 10-20 minutes earlier as i need to run it in just ticking over no load on it when i turned the engine off and touched the clutch cover, flywheel cover it was cold but i touched the barrel & kips powervalve cover it was very hot, it does have a liner fitted but what could be the cause of this?

Im aware the liners are no where near as good for heat transfer etc but im sure it shouldnt be that hot, It was chucking out some smoke from the tail can but after a while seemed to be clear and not much at all (had this problem the other day) should smoke be coming out all the time its running?

I know it does/did when i rev a bit of pull off, i did bleed the oil pump if i took the carb off, turned throttle will 2stroke oil come through the valve in inlet manifold rubber no matter what if its coming through as it should? I did fit green oil hose which i think has a smaller internal diameter. Im just slightly concerned being a 2t. It has a DEP end can fitted and standard(As far as i know) expansion chamber but running 102.5 jet same as standard which
i did before took it off the road for a rebuild, could this have anything to do with it?

4) The bike failed a mot as it seemed the headlight and brake light was "flashing" with the indicators, it doesnt struggle to power the indicators alone with engine running but if i put headlight on with indicators it struggles but does work if i rev?

[Medicinal_Motocross]

Is the loose fine wool type packing ok to use? To me it seemed a tad louder, i packed it well and compressed

[Just_James]

It's had it!... How much do you want for it?
____________________
Current Bikes / Projects: 1999 Rieju RS1 50
Previous bikes - 1986 DT125R (field bike), 1989 KX250, 1980 KX420 (with 500cc big bore), 1992 YZ250, 1988 KX500, 1989 XR250R, 1988 VFR400R NC24, 1999 Cagiva Mito 125, 2008 Rieju RS2 50 , 1993 Honda NSR 125

[doggone]

Leaving it idling for 20 minutes the engine won't be cooled like normal use so some parts will get worryingly hot.

The odd electrical behaviour is most likely a bad earth, see if it goes away if you attach a jump lead from neg terminal to a bright part of frame.

[Medicinal_Motocross]

So the fact the barrel was stupidly hot isn't a major problem? Also noticed on one side of the barrel at the base gasket it is leaking some 2t from what I can see a tiny amount but I noticed it, gona have try tighten the cylinder nuts. I'm gona have to replace the pipe from pump to inlet just so I know its feeding& will add a bit of 2t into the tank.


If I'm not mistaken I only saw one earth when attaching the loom and that goes onto a bracket on the frame with a bolt to secure, if I move the front part of the loom up and down the headlight will sometimes go off almost like a loose wire, the last thing I need is to be stripping the loom. Does this sound like a earth or a loose wire? Like I said I only noticed one earth and that's secured, isn't all that clear in the Haynes diagram ?

[doggone]

A lot of electrical problems are earth related, especially if more than one thing is mis-behaving. It's an easy fix to attach a cable to the frame more securely.
When you have multiple things drawing power the increased load often can't be carried across (say) a corroded connection, but a lesser draw might work OK.

[Medicinal_Motocross]

Sorry about the late reply, i definitely have a electrical issue have ordered a new battery hoping to sort the headlight flashing with indicators issue, in a nutshell when have the headlight on, turn the bars the headlight sometimes goes off clock light etc stay on just the headlight.. If i move the loom up or down around where my rad is behind head stock the headlight goes off is this a loose wire?

Im not sure if its a earth my bike seems only have one earth to the frame and the loom has its original rubber booting around which i dont want to have to cut off if dont have to due to it being in a area not really protected for a length and last thing i want is water getting inside, iv noticed after running it ticking over a few times on just one side of where the barrel meets crank cases around the base gasket a bit of what i think is 2t oil is seeping out not a lot at all just a residue really why is this? The gaskets new and nuts tightened, is there anything i could use to seal the small area off with? I will try to get a picture. Any ideas anyone?

[Robby]

You seem to have a few problems there. Break for walls of text up into sentences a bit and use the spell check.

1. Front brake. I assume you've had the whole system drained. Refilling it takes a while, you need to get enough fluid in to fill the caliper through a master cylinder that only passes about 0.5cc of fluid with each stroke. Sit there and pump the lever for about 10 minutes and it'll firm up. Then walk off and have a cup of tea, then come back to it and bleed it. Air has to move up to the master cylinder from the caliper, this happens slowly.

2. Electrical fault. There is likely to be more than one earth, have a look at a wiring diagram to find them, or work out which colour wire is earth (green on Honda) and trace those wires until they meet the frame. Earth connections corrode over time, you will need to sand this corrosion off to get a good connection.

3. Heat. It is normal for the cylinder and head to get hot while the cases stay cool. The cylinder is where the heat is made, and where the cooling system runs.

4. Weeping gasket. Did you, or someone that is not an expert, rebuild the engine? If the engine was rebuilt without the gasket faces being scraped perfectly clean, then the new gasket will fail. You can't bodge it with sealant, if a gasket is leaking then you need to dismantle, clean the faces, and fit a new gasket.

[Medicinal_Motocross]

Yes sorry about the block paragraphs.. First of all the front caliper had a new piston and i have bled it so many times or tried to anyway it just doesnt get any stiffer on the lever. The piston and seals were fitted correctly, fluid is coming out of the bleed nipple and hose where joins to the caliper

If im not mistaken the earth is black and only has the one that connects to frame have a ttached a picture of a diagram i found on line of the KMX, and can only see the one earth that joins to the frame

Im going to stop letting it tickover for more than 5minutes or so then will this be sufficient?

Base gasket wise taking the barrel off again is not a option for me unfortunately, is there nothing i can do to seal it off for residue coming out and air leaking in
(if it would) would a picture help? You wouldnt tell without seeing the residue and like i say its only one side of the barrel, clutch cover side at the front? Its running fine not ticking over to high etc .. Thanks for ur reply!!

[Medicinal_Motocross]

Wiring diagram

[P.addy]

You should let it tick over long enough for your helmet and gloves to go on, then ride it. You don't need to rev it to the max from the word go, simply riding around gently for a few miles should be more than enough to get it warm.

My old RS125 was started, choke on for about.... 15 seconds then knocked down, gloves went on and I rode away and kept it under 6k rpm until the temp gauge said 60 degrees or so then increased the revs gradually until it was about 80, then went mental. In total, 3-4 miles warm up.

[MCN.]

[Medicinal_Motocross]

It just isnt a viable option it's all connected up coolant hoses, 2t pump set up etc etc. Will it leak air in?
The gap is so small its unreal i ran it for 5minutes today and none seeped out.. I bled the cooling system from a bolt on the head today until coolant come up as manual states, but i was told to bleed it from running the engine and removing rad cap until all bubbles go which one do i do or both?

I was just thinking this may be why the barrel is getting so hot but it having a liner + not being ridden to cool down may be the reasons why

I have (i think) narrowed down the brake problem to the master cylinder seals, I took the master cylinder top off and the brake lever, pushed the piston in and air bubbles were popping up in the fluid each time.

The caliper bleed nipple and hose are clamped down so i guessed it was the rubber boot or master cylinder seals could this be a problem?
The outer boot that the lever pushes in when pressed had a small slit in it. How easy/hard is it to fit the master cylinder rebuild kits and what would i push the boot in with, something flat and not sharp?

Paddy. i was under the impression to let it tickover for around 5minutes before riding? Not sure where i read that