Hydraulic DIY clutch

[john24ssj]

Hi guys,

Had a go on my friends bike which had a hydraulic clutch and I loved it! But my ER5 clearly can't have on like that

What I found though is hydraulic pull clutch kits, here's some images i found online:
https://i.imgur.com/4VLZPmN.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/lpOqBi5.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZxWsZCG.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/buAhJko.jpg

I wanted to ask has anyone had any experience with these?

Found few links for them, seem to be fairly cheap:

CNC Pull Hydraulic Clutch Cylinder Pump

7/8 Motorcycle CNC Hydraulic Brake Master Cylinder Or Clutch Lever

Thanks
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Bikes: Honda CBR600Fi, Kawasaki ER5

[kramdra]

What bike does he have? if its standard it ill be set up right and suit the clutch.

It would be some guesswork/trial and error to get the right stroke and feel at the lever. Brake mc's are designed for much larger pistons. Also chinese parts are shit.

[RhynoCZ]

Well, I wouldn't bother.

There's really no point in having hydraulic clutch on your motorcycle. They only put those on bikes in the 90's because it was, for some reason, popular back then. Also, I do not see a point in the conversion. The vast majority of hydraulic clutches I've seen, the ZXR included, had a push rod system, rather than pull the classic lever mechanism in the clutch lid. I might be wrong, but I can't see a single benefit in what you are trying to achieve.

I think the cable operated clutch is the best. You can set the lever wherever you want it and the clutch control is just more precise. I do realize you can buy aftermarket levers for the hydraulic operated clutch with 20 different settings and so on, but yeah, no.
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[john24ssj]

She's got a bandit 1200

Thanks guys, I was just curious. My clutch seems to be quite hard most likely just need a new cable.

Are Slinky Glide cables any good?
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Bikes: Honda CBR600Fi, Kawasaki ER5

[kramdra]

Get decent levers, keep standard clutch cable.

Some like these
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281241553390

[john24ssj]

[RhynoCZ]

You could buy a set of pulleys, to reduce the force required to disengage the clutch with the lever. Some older riders here had such a system on their bikes. I've no idea what the English term is, but I bet, someone will soon come, to explain it to you. It's basically primary school physics.
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[stinkwheel]

They can be very useful on bikes with uprated or very heavy clutches. Or for people with hand and wrist injuries.

A mate of mine fitted one to his Triumph X75, he was unable to use the standard clutch.

That said, an ER5 shouldn't really have an issue. It's a reasonably smooth, light clutch on them with a well-designed, span adjustable lever as standard. I think you'd be better off spending your money on a new cable and ensuring it's routed correctly. Also check the pivots on the lever are free to move and well lubed.

Magura make levers and parts for Royal Enfields so I personally wouldn't think about fitting magura parts to anything I actually wanted to work properly for any length of time. (to be clear, Enfields work, they don't work properly)
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Rogerborg]

[G]

You can also get systems for cable which change the ratio of lever pull to cable movement (so that there's a lighter action). However of course this means you need to have it setup more precisely - with heavier clutch springs where there may be a smaller biting point, this should be less of an issue.

[Northern Monkey]

[-]

I'd be worried about hydraulics working properly in a pull environment with braided hoses. Surely they offer greater strength to push forces rather than pull forces?

I'm guessing this is why manufacturers use push forces on all normal hydraulic clutches. If pull was the better option, they would use it.
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TZR250 2MA road, TZR250 1KT road, TZR250 2MA race, TDR250, YZF-750R Boost colours.
Jaguar S Type 3.0 V6 Sport R, VW Transporter T5 GP LWB Shuttle 140ps DSG.

[G]

Or they use hydraulics on systems which require a 'push'?

[b422063]

[MaybeGuy]

I had one of these on my crf250x and it was actually great. I got a magura master cylinder and line from a Ktm sx250. Ditch the dowty seals it comes with and file the surface of the slave flat, then use proper copper washers. Basically do everything the Chinese didn't, and it's a good product

Oh, it was also too long, so for it to work properly I had to cut down the actuator rod. Replaced the nipple with one from those universal cable repair kits.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!!
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith

[talkToTheHat]

I'm not sure it's just about force multiplication. Hydraulic systems that are properly adjusted are less elastic so give more immediate feel with less mechanical slop. With a hydraulic conversion as pictured you still have the linkages at the clutch side.

I have ridden some bikes with superbly light feeling cable clutches that I can operate with one finger, so it has to be down to the clutch mechanism. The 99 R1 has an effortless clutch and it appears to transmit a more than adequate amount of torque. My 535 requires four finger operation yet is known to be prone to slippage despite being connected to a more feeble engine.
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Bandit. does. everything.

[stinkwheel]

[stevo as b4]

I'd like to have the smug feeling of technically superior machinery in having a bike equipt with a hydraulic clutch, if it was OEM and built in the 90's when Jap build quality was possibly pretty good.

I cannot see any point in fitting the kit the OP was thinking of, and I don't dislike cable clutches, but if I had a hydraulic bike, I would have bit of mine is bigger than yours feeling possibly?

[stinkwheel]

[MCN.]

I'm looking to adapt one to fit my YR5, but only so i can use car valve springs in the clutch....

[stinkwheel]

The enfield gets round having a shitty clutch by using 2 different different strength springs. I think this makes the plates stack up slightly off-kilter every time. If it starts slipping, I switch them about randomly.

If I'm drag racing, I drain the oil out of the primary and leave the cover off. Can't do that with your fancy-schmancy unit construction motorcycles!
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[ScottT]

[-]

[stinkwheel]

[The Shaggy D.A.]