Zzr600 clutch wont disengage properly... please read

[billybaggins]

So ive a 1995 zzr with 65k on the clock.

The things im experiencing are:
When putting into first gear i get a bit of a jolt

When im changing gear, mainly downshifting at lowish revs the revs hang for a few seconds meaning i cant downshift, if i blip the throttle i can hear the clutch disengaging and the revs will drop

I bump started it after a flat battery and with the clutch held in i couldn't push the bike easily like it was still in gear.

Any suggestions? Carbs fully cleanercleaned and balanced so i dont think the revs hanging is the inlet not springing closed etc. Cheers

[wristjob]

generic advice as im not familiar with that bike.
first place to look is clutch cable(if its cable operated)is it correctly adjusted,how far can you pull the lever before stuff happens at engine end.
if its not that then you are going to have to get the spanners out and have a look at the plates in the clutch.you would be looking for warped or badly worn plates.
if the basket is worn or damaged plates could be sticking.

[jimspeed]

it could be a few bits as said above, first check is how much free play in the cable, adjust the span on the lever to #1 to get max pull and i think there should be 3mm of free play at the lever where the cable joins.
otherwise it could be a warped plate or even a drive plate breaking up, worn clutch basket is a possible with that mileage too, either way its an easy enough job to do but get yourself a new clutch cover gasket before you take it off as it will break
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Hyosung cruise 125(passed test on, sold) Kawasaki el 252 (better than expected but sold on) Kawasaki GPZ500S first "big"bike.(sold) ZZR600 E5..Z750 2007,ER5, currently on a 2008 Enfield bullet electra x and loving it..
,"Alpha-9: Is there any correlation between dyno rod and dyno kits?"

[Casper]

All of what they say ^^ But i like to check simple and cheap parts first. Take out the clutch cable and is the lever smooth with its proper nut and bolt holding the lever to the bracket or some over tightened generic nut and bolt? later is bad. Cable inners pulling through free with no frayed strands? Clutch springs should be strong enought to pull this but you never know. Talking clutch springs. Have you been in there making adjustments lately?

[billybaggins]

Cheers guys, the cable is sound and adjusted with 3mm play. Looks like ill have to get inside there, i think the basket has a bit of a rattle so what you are saying is very possible. Could the oil be responsible? I can't remember whats in it now, probably due a change though.

[DrSnoosnoo]

I have a 95 too. Mine is on 42k.

By many reports we all get a jolt when putting it in first, think of it as a reassuring engagement (maybe).

I've attempted to push mine with the clutch in, while in gear - I too, found it VERY difficult.

So those two problems are ZZR "traits".

For struggling downchanging - check that clutch cable, there is adjustment at the lever and down under the clutch cable.

I've found when the cable needs adjusting it can be a bit more clattery of an experience, changing gear.

How long since an oil change?
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I'm Sam; Northern, Ginger, Lover
Did have: '95 ZZR600 '83 CG125 '97 ZZR1100 '15 Hypermotard 821 SP Do Have: '10 ZX10R

[Vincent]

[Nobby the Bastard]

Check the clutch lever isn't worn.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[johnsmith222]

Remove your clutch actuator rod and inspect it, as this could very likely be the cause.

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a324/david_m213/DSC00370.jpg

It's the rod which the clutch cable is attached to in this picture, and goes through the hole in the clutch case.

I'm betting this is the problem if you've tightening your clutch cable hasn't sorted it.

[billybaggins]

[billybaggins]

And ps how do you remove that rod? Take engine casing off?

[johnsmith222]

What am i looking for with the rod, damage? Does adjusting this tighter mean you have to loosen at the handlebar or do they adjust without affecting the other? I had the lever at less than 3mm and i was getting clutch slip. Seems kwak have a few bad traits[/quote]

Yes, look for damage on the notched end which is furthest away from where the cable attaches. This notched end is what attaches to the centre pin in the clutch and makes it engage/disengage.

If this is worn then it won't disengage the clutch properly even if your cable is adjusted correctly. Note that you can adjust the cable where I have shown in the image also.

The clutch doesn't really have anything to do with it being a kawasaki, and everything to do with it being a 20 year old bike with 65k miles on it.

You can remove the rod without removing the clutch case. Make sure the bike is on the sidestand, because if it's ont he centrestand then it will pish it's oil out.

Detatch the cable first by loosening it completely at the handlebars and rod. Then you can just pull the rod out after turning it in various positions until you can remove it. watch the seal when you're removing the rod.

It would probably be a good idea to inspect the clutch by removing the clutch cover and see what condition the plates and basket are in. I had to replace my clutch basket at around 30,000 miles.

[Kickstart]

[billybaggins]

Cheers , ill give this a go when i get a chance (prob be a few weeks) and ill update this. Is 65k high for this type of bike? She drives all the best apart from this.