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stranger12
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PostPosted: 18:50 - 07 Jun 2015    Post subject: bike blue smoke Reply with quote

Hi ,

hope you are all good.

Other day I noticed my bike had a bit of blue smoke for split of second when cranked on and then gone.

It happened after I rode the bike and parked it and then start again.


now today i noticed it has lost about 400ml of oil .

can i make an assumption that my oil rings are on their way out ?

my bike has only done 13k and it is 2005 r6.

last oil change was 2 month ago and I always put in castrol 10w-30 power 1 racing and change it every 8 month-12 month or 3k miles.

any advice ?



a
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FuzzyBallz
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PostPosted: 19:05 - 07 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Certainly does sound like it, generally blue smoke is from burning oil
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 19:12 - 07 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, the rings are gone, I guess. Any bits of metal in the exhaust system and/or oil? I'm not sure about '05 R6, but some of those eat their cylinders. 400ml is a lot. Thumbs Down

Now, are you sure you know how to measure the oil level? If you were burning oil that quickly, there would be more signs around. The plugs would be black and shiny, there would be more of the blue smoke etc.

I'd also try to run an 10w40, instead of that racing 10w30 nonsense. Thumbs Up
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stranger12
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PostPosted: 19:18 - 07 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

well no issues for the past 4 month and the bike was parked up for almost a month .

then when used i checked the oil and it was correct then today after 2 weeks of riding it had lost 400ml ( i know 400 ml as that is how much i put in ).

it could be it had lost more prior to that and I have not noticed which is very unlikely as I normally check it on a level surface and pull the bike toward me then dip in the oil stick and check .
could be before i have leaned toward me too much hence got wrong reading

I guess I will keep an eye on it for few days and also the exhaust is after market and i think the engine is running rich i guess

when you change exhaust to a a sport can does that make the engine run lean or rich ?
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Andy_Pagin
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PostPosted: 19:20 - 07 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a similar problem with a Series Landrover, turned out to be the valve stem oils seals, which are considerably cheaper to replace. Don't know if bike valve gear works in the same way, but worth looking into.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 19:41 - 07 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

stranger12 wrote:
I guess I will keep an eye on it for few days and also the exhaust is after market and i think the engine is running rich i guess

when you change exhaust to a a sport can does that make the engine run lean or rich ?


If it's carberd or very early DFi, an open exhaust will make the mixture lean. More air goes through the engine, the jets can't keep up. Thumbs Up

If it's a modern DFi, then the O2 sensor will compensate the amount of air in the system and will make the mixture ideal again.
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Last edited by RhynoCZ on 19:42 - 07 Jun 2015; edited 1 time in total
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Nemo
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PostPosted: 19:41 - 07 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was going to suggest valve stem seals also.

Have you noticed any difference in performance or noises that weren't there before?
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stranger12
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PostPosted: 20:53 - 07 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think my r6 has an o2 sensor .

it is injection model so in essence does that mean more air will go in thus leaner engine?
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 21:02 - 07 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

My knowledge of the fuel injection systems is very limited, but if there's no O2 sensor, then the unit can't know how much of air is going through the exhaust/engine = the unit still runs like there was the factory fitted exhaust and air filter = making the mixture lean.

I'm quite sure you can change the fuel map, might gonna need a new control unit, since I doubt the OEM unit from the factory will allow you to do stuff with it. Thumbs Down
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carlosvalderr...
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PostPosted: 11:11 - 08 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not trying to confuse things too much, but I've found valve stem seals tend to show up as a flare of start up smoke from pooled oil in the ports and cylinders, then not much when running.

Rings/bores have shown up as smoky under higher loads from the massive blowby, and on overrunning from drawing oil mist through.

This is based on car experience rather than bike, but in this sense it shouldn't make much difference.

Might be worth a test by taking the filler plug out when idling. If you have a decent seal round the rings, it shouldn't matter. If the idle stumbles, then it's breathing through the cases as well as the intake.
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 11:47 - 08 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

PaulFzs wrote:
arent r6s known for eating the sleeves?


Early ones, year, up to like 03.
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 15:44 - 08 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

At only 13k and an R1. It's safe to say it's been ragged when cold, and taken to the limit many times.
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stranger12
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PostPosted: 10:23 - 11 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok so I checked the oil and it now seems it is quite above max line so will need to drain it again .

I think as per one of the posters , the bike needs to be warm before you do an oil check. What do you mean by upper tank , isn't there one sump and the oil drains right back in after the engine is shutdown ?


If you don't drain the excess oil, can the pressure build up and blow the oil rings etc ? what can be the worst ?

I think i may not have lost anything and 400ml was wasted as I checked the deep stick on cold. as per above, I am not sure why the engine has to be warm as when you switch off all of the oil goes back to the sump.


now regarding the blue smoke I saw, it could be it was accidental as have never seen it again or maybe my valve seals are gone!
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 10:39 - 11 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
Now, are you sure you know how to measure the oil level? If you were burning oil that quickly, there would be more signs around. The plugs would be black and shiny, there would be more of the blue smoke etc.


Rolling Eyes

Every single time, there is someone that can't measure the oil level and overfill the engine, claiming his motorcycle burns oil. Laughing

Right, no need to be warmed up, but let it sit for at least 5-10 minutes before you measure the oil level. If the engine was running right before the measuring, quite a considerable amount of oil will stay in the head and other parts of the engine = let it sit, till all come down to the pan. Thumbs Up

If you read the manual or used the common sense, this would be the first thing, that you'd find out.

The blue smoke could be a plain condensation, caused by cold exhaust system and warm exhaust gases going through it.
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stranger12
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PostPosted: 10:49 - 11 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

well the bike was stationary for 2 days and I even checked it 10 times before I put oil in .

So thing the idea of cold check is wrong .

I did again check it 5-6 times when filling the oil in and waiting few minutes for it to settle and at the time it was showing just below max now way above so I have done all i could to avoid mistakes
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 10:55 - 11 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

stranger12 wrote:
So thing the idea of cold check is wrong .


Well, no. Cold or hot, the only thing that matters is, that the oil gets down to the pan. The engine is even designed so 0.1L stays in the oil filter and then there's about 0.5L of oil, that stays somewhere in the engine. Possibly the head, oil cooler etc. The places it can't get down to the pan from, on it's own. Thumbs Up

Admit it, you've made a mistake. Smile

Think of it this way, you say the motorcycle was sat for 2 days, so that means two days ago you had a go on it, made the oil warm, after you turned the engine off, the warm oil, its viscosity is low due to heat, came all down the the pan. Now, where did the oil go from there? Cold or warm, the amount of oil is basically the same.

EDIT: Find the manual, fill up the engine with specified amount of oil. It's always wrong when you use the glass/dip stick to guess the right amount. Thumbs Down

Also, if there is a number on the engine somewhere, telling you, for instance 3.6L, of oil, then you should know, that about 0.5L+0.1L in the filter, always stays in the engine, even when you drain it. - which is something that the manual also says. Thumbs Up

The last thing is, always have the motorcycle on level place and balance it in the middle of its center of gravity, to get correct measurement.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 11:19 - 11 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

As another point to Rhyno's - check your manual to see whether you should check the oil level with the bike on the wheels, the center stand or whatever. It's almost certainly on the wheels.

Wifies ER6 is quite a difference if you do it on the wheels or the paddock stand.
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 11:38 - 11 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

stranger12 wrote:
So thing the idea of cold check is wrong.


No, you're wrong.
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stranger12
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PostPosted: 13:40 - 11 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

ook!
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carlosvalderr...
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PostPosted: 16:24 - 11 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you've overfilled the oil, you've a greater chance of the oil breather venting too much oil mist into the airbox. This can then be drawn into the engine and burnt, giving the blue smoke.

If you have the time and inclination, lift the tank, split the airbox and have a look, it could be pretty greasy in there.

A momentary overfill shouldn't leave lasting damage, but any duration of burning oil can foul up your plugs and on a very modern bike, fug your cat and lambda sensor completely.
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stranger12
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PostPosted: 16:47 - 11 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have read it can blow the engine due to excessive pressure in the crank .

I sort of knew this but did further reading to confirm.

So I am draining the oil
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